Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Cz75 Specific Questions


Vlad

Recommended Posts

I've been using my CZ for USPSA production for about 3 years now. Along the way I've tried various things with various degrees of success. There are two issues that I'm not totally happy with and I would like to see what other CZ shooters do about them:

1) Recoil springs. I'm currently using the factory recoil spring. I know a number of people use reduce power springs, and I've liked them myself when I tried them. The problem is that Wolff springs are too long and I've had the 12lb spring kink and lock up my gun. I've been tempted to buy a Wolff 14lb spring and cut it to the lenghth of the factory one, but then I won't have any idea what actuall "weight" it has. How do you get your lower power springs to length and still have some clue of what you are using? Also, have you had any problems with the slide having enough energy to return into battery when the feedramp and chamber are dirty?

2) Mag brake. I've replaced the original mag brake with a "drop free" one, but it is still in contact with the mag body and slows down mag ejection. And that is when my mags and gun are clean. If I get some grit, or sand on my mags I end up having to rip the mag out. At this point I'm ready to remove the damn thing all together and run without it. In the past I heard some CZ recomendation to not do that as you may damage the mainspring on reloads, but as far as I can tell, thats not possible as the grip screw mounts will not permit the mag to touch the mainspring. At worst, a fast reload may get the mag rear hanging a bit on the screw mounts, but that could be avoided with practice. I guess removing the brake will also allow more dust/grit to come into contact with the mainspring and strut, but they aren't exactly airtight to begin with, and with the brake out, it would be easier to clean them anyway. Anyone else running without the brake, or any reasons not to?

Edited by Vlad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I use stock recoil spring and cannot be a help there.

I just hammered the brake flat so it does not drag on the mag. (Poet and don't know it, eh?) I tried the gun with it removed but found that the magzine would hit the grip screw mounts on the back of the well and bring the reload to a halt. I didn't practice to see if I could learn to avoid that angle, I just flattened the brake and put it back in. I'd try some bending on the brake and see if I could get it off the magazine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've bent and bent. The problem is that the brake seems to be slightly longer then the available space so it curves under its own spring tension. As it can't bend towards the mainspring because of the screw mounts, it has to bend towards the mag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Vlad

my experience with a 75b is limited..but I did not have the same issues..the mags ejected really quickly in my gun and I simply stuck a 12# wolffe spring in it with the short rod and never experienced any function problems with it..

I now shoot a SP01..same situation with the mag brake..I use CZ factory 16rnd mags with the CZ rubber baseplate and the mags eject quickly..same with the factory 19rnd mags.

The SP01 uses a FLGR..which I replaced with a JackAsh Custom SS guide rod with no problems either..

I am no experimenting with a Springco guide rod system..of which I just took out of the bag with their spring and installed..so far about 300 rounds with no problems..

I have shot this gun about a 1000 rounds without cleaning and had no function problems with feeding or ejecting..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just mashed the mag brake flat, and it works fine. I use a Wolff 14 lb. recoil spring with no problems. It's set up as a carry gun, and I use 124 grain +Ps in it. I tried the 16 lb. Wolff spring in it, and it wouldn't fit, so Wolff may have changed their specs at some point.

I believe the Wolff CZ springs are straight weight, rather than variable weight, springs. You could probably cut one down without a problem. You might want to address this on the "Gun Springs" sub-forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The SP01 uses a FLGR..which I replaced with a JackAsh Custom SS guide rod with no problems either..

I bought the FLGR from JackAsh Custom and it doesn't fit in my SP01 at all. It took 6 weeks to get it and now he refuses to respond to my emails about it...Have tried for over a month to get a response and can't get any....I would NOT recommend them to anyone as he has lousy customer service! Charged my credit card day one, took 6 weeks to deliver the wrong product and a month later still won't make it right! :angry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The SP01 uses a FLGR..which I replaced with a JackAsh Custom SS guide rod with no problems either..

I bought the FLGR from JackAsh Custom and it doesn't fit in my SP01 at all. It took 6 weeks to get it and now he refuses to respond to my emails about it...Have tried for over a month to get a response and can't get any....I would NOT recommend them to anyone as he has lousy customer service! Charged my credit card day one, took 6 weeks to deliver the wrong product and a month later still won't make it right! :angry:

I got lucky and got hold of this guide rod awhile ago..

lots of problems now..no one having a good experience in recent history (lots of threads on CZShooters and CZForum, no communication, no parts....I had ordered some parts for a 40P about 4 weeks ago..and got no response..got paypal to reverse my charges and I was able to get my money back.

Edited by eerw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll try that. I assume the tail is the the loop on the upper part, as the lower one would still need to fit the plug or will the lower one still fit in the cut in AND fit on the pin when cut? I guess the answer is to just shorten the spring to take the bend out it.

Thank you all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bottom I think...

the top is rounded to encircle the pin..

the bottom you can cut off the bottom portion that curves around the strut..but the slot in the frame will hold the brake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll try that. I assume the tail is the the loop on the upper part, as the lower one would still need to fit the plug or will the lower one still fit in the cut in AND fit on the pin when cut? I guess the answer is to just shorten the spring to take the bend out it.

Thank you all

Vlad.

I think he means the lower part.

You can cut the bottom of the loop and leave the tail to fit into the plug.

Also, I saw a post from Angus where he cut the edges of the brake where it contacts the grip screw area. The brake is then between the grip screw threaded areas instead of on top of them.

I think that there is definitely some differences in the mag tunnels on these guns.

I bought some mags from eerw that dropped free in his SP01 and would not in my SP01.

Do all your mags have this problem with the brake?

Hope this helps. Dave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take it out of the gun. Chop about 1/8" off of the tail with cutters. Rebend the tail and reinstall. I bet it won't touch then.

You are like Miracle Max and his chocolate covered miracle pill. Choping off part of the tail allows the brake to bottom out in the receiver cut and now it is actually straight and not putting pressure on the mags.

Thank you, that solved it.

Edited by Vlad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I provided my stock SP-01 guide rod as a guide for the first Jack Ash SP-01 full length guide rod, over a year ago...... the one he made as a prototype did not fit in my gun with a spring on it. Not did version 2, or 3. The rod will not fit in the gun with a spring on it, with out SERIOUS modification; which in my case made the rod to short to function reliably. If you notice, the stock rod bends when you install it, the stainless ones will not, preventing it inserting in the slide correctly.

I suppose a two piece rod would work, or one made with a "sharp point" on the end maybe.... but I gave up and installed a Sprinco for a CZ-75b. You can also use a Jack Ash stainless rod for a CZ-75b, but it will be short, not full length.

In any case, I let Jack know his design did not work. Never heard back from him on the issue. I assumed he was not selling them for the SP-01 as he was aware the design did not work. For what its worth.

Edited by sfinney
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shaun..

I got the rod to work..I shortened by two swipes of a file and applied a slight more bevel. The rod centers up nicely and the rod does not move from center. It has worked for the few thousand rounds that I have fired with it.

JackAsh is having some problems now..and communication seems non-existent with him or his business..so figure he is a dead end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DSC_0132.jpg

here are the CZ guide rods I have..

top is a Springco, next is the delrin SP01 guide rod, 75B guide rod and the Jack Ash FLGR.

Edited by eerw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt

since we are talking about springs, what are you recommending for the SP01, for mags, mainspring, firing pin, recoil....

Using either 115gr factory ammo, or 147gr ammo.

I cant speak for Matt, but when I talked with Matt today, he told me he shoots 147's out of his SP01 w/ a 10 or 11lb recoil, 15lb mainspring. He didnt mention mag springs, but I believe he and Angus use Wolff mag springs.

The reason I was talking to Matt today was getting the shipping details worked out so my Minked out SP01 will be here Friday morning. Cant wait.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should've got the -85 Combat (although costs a bit more). It doesn't have the mag brake thing and has a slightly extended mag release (among other things), stock.

Edited by Eager
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt

since we are talking about springs, what are you recommending for the SP01, for mags, mainspring, firing pin, recoil....

Using either 115gr factory ammo, or 147gr ammo.

Factory mag springs until they wear out, then replace with Wolff +%, mainspring is either a chopped stocker or a chopped 15# Wolff, stock firing pin spring, 10# thru 13# Wolff recoil spring depending on your load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt,

How many coils can you cut off the stock mainspring, roughly?

Too many variables for a quick and easy answer.

You can do this: Start with 2 mainsprings. Cut off coils until you get light strikes. Measure length and throw in the trash. Cut 2nd mainspring longer than measured length. Test fire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...