Eager

OK I talked to the plater again, and I think I've got it all figured out. I COULD save around $35 by completely stripping it and shipping the parts, with a complete list of the parts. But, I'd have to remove the sights, and I'm not sure about the grip bushings. Anyway, I don't really want to do all that, so $35 sounds good to avoid having to do all that. I'll just be sending the whole "werks", and not looking back. I tested it today to make sure it runs perfectly. It does. Although it was another sweaty day (103ºF) so it'll be good to get the chrome . Now to find the best deal on shipping.

Good info either way. Yes it is just a 4lb "carry" job on this. So maybe the chrome on the hammer hooks won't matter for this use, i.e. significantly impact the trigger pull. I think the plater guy said they don't do the sear. I might just go ahead and send the hammer and not fret the potential loss of a fraction of a pound pull. It would look nice chromed, and although I haven't seen any rust on this hammer yet, I have another 1911 that shows some slight surface rust on the hammer. Another thing I don't understand is their fee for gun "dissasembly", or maybe it's "assembly", or both, which I think is $40. I was thinking of just sending the dissasembled parts to avoid this, but I'm not sure if there's a downside, like if they have to reassemble to check fit, or for high spots. I think I'll call 'em again to settle this. Thanks for all the inputs. Good info here.

My blued 1911 is starting to show some ugly rust. I've been carrying it during walks up a local mountain, where I sweat in the summer heat. The walks have been very good for my fitness. The salty sweat has not been good for the frame, and some parts, and can't seem to keep up on oiling it tio stop this. I'd like to get it chrome plated. It has a trigger job, something like a 4lb "carry" job. I don't want my trigger job altered, nor do I want to pay for another trigger job, so my current thought is to not ship the hammer and sear to the plater. Coating the hammer would be nice, but the hammer is not a point of significant rust, so I'm sure I could live without a coating on it. I called the plater and the technical guy wasn't very helpful (this is a plater arguably most receommended on this site). He seemed to think that plating would not impact the trigger job at all. I asked if they would mask the hammer hooks, he laughed and said no, they would not do that, they would plate the whole hammer. I asked if they would "sandblast" the hammer, he said no, they would used aluminum oxide, which i think means that they WILL blast it. He did cover himself to say that if the trigger job wasn't what I wanted after, they could do a new trigger job on it. For the normal cost, of course. Based on all this, I'm thinking that I won't send the hammer. Opinions, and experiences please.

Your assumption that chlorine = alkali is wrong. Chlorine does not mean acid or base, it just means chlorine. "Chlorine" is easier to dissolve in alkali (base), as in "bleach" solution (sodium hypochlorite solution), and this is the most common form of "chlorine" for use, so it's common to think that "chlorine" and alkali are associated, but this is not the case. If you get too acidic, much of the dissolved "chlorine" will escape from the solution as chlorine gas, so it's hard to get very acidic and have a chlorine concentration, so we're usually talking about pH changes near neutral.

Looks pretty good. Proprietary dovetail? I would have prefered a bit more undercut on the triggerguard. That's one of my favorite features.

lol I might just have to use that someday. I was evesdropping, since I'm deep into planning a 9mm "GirlGun", that will be hard not to hog to myself, as opposed to letting the girl shoot it. Anyway, thanks whatsupglock for those great 9mm 1911 tips! I'm really looking forward to starting to play with one.

All hooked up and running! I got the Gateway with an Intel Core i3 processesor, which per the "How to Buy PC" sight above, seemed to be about the best for my budget. Got it from NewEgg.com, which seemed pretty highly recommened (along with TigerDirect.com). Both of those sellers have lots of buyers reviews, and info, which helped narrow the choice. Choosing the monitor was difficult because , every monitor under $350, had a significant percentage of buyers that absolutely hated it, and advised to avoid at all costs. I ended up with a $125, 20" monitor (smaller than the budget and what I had in mind), because reliablity and performance wise it was rated as well as more expensive ones, and if it gives up, it won't be too upsetting to just buy a new one. It appears that monitor support by sellers and manufacters is not stong, such that you pretty much are SOL, if it fails. I studied the option of XP vs Windows 7, and to me, Windows 7 didn't look bad enough in comparison to avoid.

I think I'm about to "pull the trigger" on the Gateway DX4831-01e. They've got them locally here at BestBuy for $529 (includes keyboard, but not monitor). I like it for the Intel Core i3 processor, the memory, and hard drive, which seem to be rated about as good as I can get within my budget, and should work real well for what we want. Serious gaming, is out side this. And it has a convinient amount and location of ports. No wireless, but I don't think we'll need that. Doesn't really look expandable, but for ~$500, we'll likely just throw it away in a few years anyway. This: http://compreviews.about.com/od/buyers/bb/DesktopPCs.htm seemed to be the most useful guide. Along with personal reviews. I think I'll go for a 23-in LCD monitor, probably an ACER from Best Buy, which seems to rate as good or better than others at this price and class. Then I'll get some small but decent speakers, for the music fans, then a basic printer, the software... I can see why there weren't many responses to this. There's so many similar computers our there, and things change so fast, and by the time something is proven reliable, it's obsolete. Anyway, I'll think we'll be happy with this... as long as it doesn't breakdown.

OK, It's time for a new DeskTop for the Family. I'd really rather buy shoes than a PC, so I haven't really "kept up" on the technology. Anyway, we've got a $1k budget, might be able to knock the printer outside that. There's four of us, wife and I, daughters in middle school and just starting community college part time. we mostly surf. email, download and play music, pics but not extreme, do homework, letters, etc. We like speed for those tasks, and probably would like a 23-in flat monitor. We have cable internet already. Also, they want good, but don't have to be great, speakers to play their techno, poppy, teenage music, while they surf, and chat/blog to their teen friends. I think we can live without wireless. No one's a big gamer, nor will likely become so inclined. I can get Microsoft word, excel, etc. from my work deal, and some security/anti-virus thing, don't have the details yet. Based on my limited knowledge so far, I like this one: Gateway DX4831-01e Gateway DX4831-01e Anything wrong with that, or is there a better choice? Any general recommendations for what I should be reading, where I should be looking to help me do this?

I ordered and received a few extended pads from CMC. Meanwhile I mentioned this to a buddy and he said that his 8rd PowerMags came with two pads. One for concelement and one longer. I didn't recall this, so I checked in my "junk" boxes. Sure enough there was another, longer pad in the bag that they came in. Oddly, those are a third size, in between the concelement pad and the really extended one shown in the pic above. The intermediate one seems to work the best. The long one may not fit the box, although I have no way to check. Now that I've got it figured out, I ordered more 8rd PowerMags (midway's got them on sale). I really wasn't ready to start Single Stack, but this was our January "concealed carry" match, where things can be a bit.... "irregular". The real thing I've learned is that I really like the 8rd PowerMag with the very short pad for concealed carry. It's shorter than my Wilson's and only ever-so-slightly longer than a 7-rd GI type mag, which I often use since I don't use a magwell for my CCW rig.

Based on the studies I've seen, shooters get lead because some lead either vaporizes or shears into micro particles in the barrel and then oxidizes when shooting lead bullets, and to a lesser degree FMJ bullets which have lead, and also primers contain lead styphenate, both of which are in vapor form, and are breathed in, particularly in undervented indoor ranges. Next lead oxide can be ingested or absorbed: http://www.recguns.com/Sources/XIIIA5a.html

Looks like CMC has two different base pads that slip on the Powermag: The "concealment" pad. Which is what came on my mags: and the "extended" pad: The 8 rd CMC Powermags definitely do not even come flush with the end of my S&A magwell. Guess I'll have to get the extended pads. Too bad that blows the savings I incurred by buying these mags on sale. The "concealment" pads do make a nice short 8 rd mag, for... concealment.

Today was my first match attempt at Single Stack. I usually shoot a 1911 in L-10, or a CZ in Production. Actually, I've never even practiced SS before today. Anyway, I have 45 Springfield with an S&A mag guide, and a mixture of Wilson 47D and CMC 8 rd Powermags, all which I know work, I've used 'em in my 1911s, but not with the S&A mag guide on. What I found out the hard way is that the CMC 8 rd Powermags aren't long enough to seat reliably, at least not using my standard technique. The CMC 8 rd Powermags do not protrude beyond the flush end of my S&A magwell. The Wilson 47Ds do, and they worked every time for me. The basepad on the 8 rd CMC Powermag is very thin. How does one make the the CMC 8 rd Powermags reliable with the S&A magwell?

My Lee factory crimp die on my 550b seems to hang up at times on cases. What it feels like is as if the lip of the case is caught of the edge of the die, i.e. the case has not entered straight into the die, but rather is hung on the edge. If I kind of pull on the handle (put pressure on the frame towards myself) it seems to lessen this tendency. Small shavings of brass can be seen around this station. I've re-installed the die a couple times thinking that it wasn't centered/aligned, but this did nothing. I wonder if I should inspect inside the die itself to see if there's something wrong with it. Anybody got any ideas?

OK, I've been loading on my 550b for two years and from the beginning I noticed that the index sprocket didn't turn so smooth, it seemed to drag at one point, but I could never see what was wrong. Tried lubing different points. etc. Anyway finally dedicated enough time to study it and I found that one point of the star shaped index sprocket drooped a hair more than the other points, and this lower point would scape the ejector wire at each revolution. The point of contact with the ejector wire was at the point where one end of the wire is inserted into the frame. I don't know much about the ejector wire, nor how it is supposed to be positioned or if it should be moved, but a light tap on the wire in the right place seems to have set everything right. Has anyone adjusted the ejector wire position?

I had a smith build me a 1911 and install a Brown (slightly extented) mag catch (that I bought). The ramp of the mag catch needed to be re-profiled to run. The smith said I should have bought the Nowlin slightly extended mag catch. So when I got a Trojan, I bought and installed a Nowlin slightly extended mag catch. It's been perfect. Anyone else try the Nowlin?

From what I understand most "stones" are calcium oxalate. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalate The problem is not so much the calcium, as the oxalate. Oxalate, and it's other form oxalic acid, are what makes raw Taro root, rhubarb leaves, dephenbacia plants, and anitifreeze toxic. Oxalate can be ingested in a soluble form (e.g. sodium oxalate), and enter your blood stream as such, but then when it hits calcium (also in your blood), it will convert to the insoluble calcium oxalate form and can precipitate (form solid stones). What I've read as a solution is to 1) eat calcium with oxalate foods, so that it converts to the solid mineral form in your stomach, not later in your blood or inside your body, or 2) avoid high oxalate foods. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taro http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=george&dbid=48 I work in the chemical processing industry were we deal with trying to prevent the precipitation (solidification) of oxalate as the chemistries change through our process, so I find it interesting how this same simple phenominon occurs in the body, with dramatic impact. The oxalate situation in the body reminds me of the bends, i.e. where at the greater pressure at depth, nitrogen is dissolved in the blood, but as the diver comes up, pressure decreases to the point where nitrogen gas comes out of solution forming gas bubbles in the blood stream. It's all about solubility.

Well, she does have some big... ...uhm... ...ideas, there.

I use this one: http://www.exofficio.com/product_details.a...a2-490037191da8 Ear muffs work well over the top of it.

OK. But why is this? Will the cable be broadcast in analog then? How else will I be able to get it with my analog TVs?

The family and I watch TV, but we're not so into it that we have modern digital TVs. nor have I bothered to figure out exactly how this transition will effect us. We have Charter Cable service that connects directly to each TV in the house. We have no cable boxes. What I don't understand is that the cable Co says on their website that for this type of connection NO CHANGES ARE NEEDED to go on receiving TV. Are they lying, or how is this possible since our TVs are analog, but the signal is digital? I did find this bit on the internet, which indicates that for 3 years the cable Co will send both digital and analog signals. Is this how it will work?

+1 This fix worked like a charm on my CZ, which had an extreme problem in the exact way you describe. I'd try that.

No. These are not round nose. The oal with be different with the flat nose. The hollow base will significantly change the case volume, so the powder charge will not be the same either.

I picked up what may be some "weird" 9 mm bullets at Sprotsman's Wh@rehouse today. Berry's plated, double struck, 124 gr, flat nose, hollow base. I don't suppose anyone's ever used these, and can recall their load?

I have a Trojan in 45 and recommend an extended mag catch (the stock one with the Trojan is not at all extended). I installed a Nowlin myself with success. I may have chosen the spring weight by buying and Wulff mag catch spring variety pack and choosing my favorite. I also recommend an AFTEC extractor. I (also successfully) installed that myself, but is a bit involved, especially if you fit the firing pin stop. I also filed a bit off the front of the guide rod, so it could be stripped easier. I failed to disengage the grip safety at times while shooting, so had to deactivate that. Also, installed a S&A magwell/msh, and use VZ micarta grips. I had problems keeping grips screws tight with aluminum grips. I use a Brazo's microdot front sight, that Bob at Brazo's installed. Bob also did a great trigger job on it (the most important upgrade) with the stock parts.