Newbie 2011 Reloading Questions

[TheOneTrueAndre]

Hey guys, I've got a stock Atlas Athena that I'm starting to use in Steel Challenge, and I recently got a Dillon XL650 reloading press. Anyway, I also just bought Atlas' "tuning" recoil spring kit, so I'll have 7-11lb recoil springs, and my SCSA coach is going to help with me the machine setup, calibration, etc so I don't blow anything up lol... I haven't really done any reloading outside of a hunting rounds for my 7mm mag with my dad when I was like 16.

 

So, since I'm shooting only SCSA with this gun power factor is meaningless and I want MOUSE FARTS that I can see leave the barrel. My goal is the softest custom loads that will still reliably cycle. I assume that would mean using the lightest recoil spring I have at my disposal? the 7lb?

 

So my question is where to start? Obviously I'm gonna need to try like a bunch of different things but right now I'm at a loss as to where to even start.

 

Is it better to use a 115gr slug or should I be going slow and heavy like a 147gr? Are polymer coated better than fmj or plated? I've run maybe 2000 rounds of Syntech through it just fine. Is it just a cost thing?

 

What powders should I be looking at?

 

Sorry it this is a lot, like i said I'm pretty new but I swear I shoot extremely well haha.

[36873687]

i think since these are for steel id run 115 or 125 u can run em 115/125 pf feel like a 22 lr. universal TG sports pistol n320 n330 powders u be golden

[cvincent]

I would also use a light bullet.  The heavier bullets at real low PF  the gun might feel sluggish. You might have to lower the hammer spring weight too.  Polymer/Hi-tek bullets are usually cheaper and take less powder. It’s the way to go. Second choice is plated. So many different powders to choose from. Pick one for now. Dial in the gun and load.  

[xrayfk05]

If you really want the lowest recoil possible you need the lightest bullet you can find (and works) with a fast powder.

Since you do not need a certain PF heavier bullets do not offer any advantage.

 

Something like 4 grains N320/TG/Bullseye with a 90 - 100 grain bullet, velocity was just over 1130 FPS.

This cycles fine in my 2011 with a 9# spring as well.

[Jim Watson]

Without getting into "recipes" I had a 115 gr Xtreme and some HP38 down to 880 fps with a 7 lb recoil spring.  That was the least that would function, I would go a bit faster for reliability in that gun.

[TheOneTrueAndre]

 

16 minutes ago, Jim Watson said:

Without getting into "recipes" I had a 115 gr Xtreme and some HP38 down to 880 fps with a 7 lb recoil spring.  That was the least that would function, I would go a bit faster for reliability in that gun.

 

880 fps sounds like we are getting there. I shoot with this guy that you can watch his bullets from his PCC go down range and that’s about what he said. Not gonna see him to ask for a few weeks (next match).

[TheOneTrueAndre]

10 hours ago, cvincent said:

Polymer/Hi-tek bullets are usually cheaper and take less powder. It’s the way to go. Second choice is plated. 

polymer is cheaper? Def going that route, I heard there’s a good supplier in south Florida but I haven’t gotten a name - any ideas?

[cvincent]

A lot of choices, blue bullets, bayou bullets, acme, black bullets, eggelston. Google “coated bullets”

[Yeti]

Solid advice thus far.  Faster powders with 124/125gr is my preference, but lots of options. 

I like coated bullets from ACME, Bayou, BBI, Eggleston and SNS.   

[Bamboo]

I’d place reliable function over mouse fart loads.

I’ve chased the mouse fart experience with light bullets, altered & lightened slides, cone comps, etc.   I got decent results at around 100pf, but in hindsight the quest wasn’t worth it for me.   Now I’m back to loading 115 at about 1050fps…great feeding, accurate, gun runs and feels right, and reliable.  I don’t run times that are any slower than with the mouse fart loads.

but, it was fun and the journey is part of this hobby.  

[TheOneTrueAndre]

36 minutes ago, Bamboo said:

I’d place reliable function over mouse fart loads.

 

That is why I said "reliably"... if I have to go up to Squirrel or Bunny farts that's fine.

[Jim Watson]

Years ago somebody analyzed steel loads with the thought that you wanted a low velocity to separate the Bang and Clang, but you wanted to get to the plate quickly while being timed to the hundredth of a second.  I think he settled on 950 fps or so.

 

Me?  I have just shot my regular Minor load... when I wasn't shooting a .22.  If I wanted to get fancy a 147 at 750 would be the same ballistics as a .38 wadcutter.  

Edited July 5 by Jim Watson

[RickT]

I've never had to go below a 9 lb. recoil spring for soft loads on a 1911 and 19 lb. recoil spring has always been GTG.  115 should be capable of producing a softer recoil, but Sport Pistol (or N320) will get you a very soft load using 125 gr. bullets.  The bevel at the base of most 125/127 gr bullets works better in my 1050 with autodrive so I've standardized on this bullet weight.  My Staccato P with a 4.4" barrel shoots soft with an 11 lb. recoil spring.

[TheOneTrueAndre]

3 hours ago, RickT said:

I've never had to go below a 9 lb. recoil spring for soft loads on a 1911 and 19 lb. recoil spring has always been GTG.  115 should be capable of producing a softer recoil, but Sport Pistol (or N320) will get you a very soft load using 125 gr. bullets.  The bevel at the base of most 125/127 gr bullets works better in my 1050 with autodrive so I've standardized on this bullet weight.  My Staccato P with a 4.4" barrel shoots soft with an 11 lb. recoil spring.

Pretty sure I'm using the 9lb stock right now, and it feeds everything I put into it just fine.
 

On 7/5/2024 at 11:36 AM, Jim Watson said:

Years ago somebody analyzed steel loads with the thought that you wanted a low velocity to separate the Bang and Clang, but you wanted to get to the plate quickly while being timed to the hundredth of a second.  I think he settled on 950 fps or so.

 

Me?  I have just shot my regular Minor load... when I wasn't shooting a .22.  If I wanted to get fancy a 147 at 750 would be the same ballistics as a .38 wadcutter.  

I've been using the 115gr Blazer mostly and its just far too snappy for what I'm hoping to get to - I think that's rated around 1145 fps? Picking up my reloading setup on Wednesday and gonna set it up next weekend with my coach. 950 fps would be about an 18% decrease, I'll prob make that my first goal tbh.

[Haywizzle]

I agree with the light bullet and fast powder option. This year, I've been messing with 100gr berry's round nose, hollow base, so you can still load them pretty long. I got them to function with n320, but switched to n310 for a better feeling recoil impulse. I'm currently loading them to ~1100 FPS or 110PF. Atlanta Arms sells a similar offering marketed for "SCSA." 

[m700]

Atlas uses pretty light springs to begin with

I would think somewhere in the 124/125 weight would work well. Not too snappy not too sluggish but 115 would work as well. If you can find 320 buy a little bit of it give it a shot. if you like it buy a lot. Its one of the first powders to disappear with a shortage.

 

Look up load data for the bullet you choose. I would load the bottom third of a load box for that bullet/powder combo. IE if it gives you a minimum of 3.2 grains max of 4.0 I would load 20x 3.2, 20 x 3,3, and 20x 3.4. Drop in a 8lb spring and run 2 10 round mags of each, see how it feels. It must cycle always So if you have any hangups take note. After this if you like the 3.3 load 100 of them and go back to the range make sure they all work. Then you can start putting out more. If your minimum functions flawlessly then try the 7lb spring out and readdress,

 

Dont load 1000s until you know they work. Ask me how I know.

[TheOneTrueAndre]

4 hours ago, m700 said:

Dont load 1000s until you know they work. Ask me how I know.

What are 1000s and how do you know?

[Dr. Phil]

1 hour ago, TheOneTrueAndre said:

What are 1000s and how do you know?

You will have both answers after you load 1K rounds and then find out they are 1. way to hot 2. won't run the gun (feed, eject, reset. etc) or are too long, too short, or whatever.

You will always remember trying to shoot them in practice or whatever to keep from breaking them all down.

Guess how we know this?

[TheOneTrueAndre]

26 minutes ago, Dr. Phil said:

You will have both answers after you load 1K rounds and then find out they are 1. way to hot 2. won't run the gun (feed, eject, reset. etc) or are too long, too short, or whatever.

You will always remember trying to shoot them in practice or whatever to keep from breaking them all down.

Guess how we know this?

Ohhhh you mean thousands of quantity, I had a few beers at dinner and was like “1000 sounds real high for a slug weight, does he mean fps? Is it a model number for a kind of powder? Hmm”

 

haha

[m700]

10 hours ago, TheOneTrueAndre said:

Ohhhh you mean thousands of quantity, I had a few beers at dinner and was like “1000 sounds real high for a slug weight, does he mean fps? Is it a model number for a kind of powder? Hmm”

 

haha

 

HA yea 2 times Ive spent months pulling. first was 223 I had an issue where powder charge slipped progressively until the cases started overflowing. That was 2500 I pulled apart. Then I had an issue with hot 45. 4500 of them. Somehow i transposed the first and last number of my known good load, I checked frequently but was using wrong number so still bad,  and they now move at 223 speed.