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FTE after recoil/main spring change


DDave

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I haven't had this issue before but wanted to get someone else's opinion. 

 

My 1911/45 was 100% functional, I changed the mainspring/recoil spring on the cycle I always do and I had a fail to eject every single stage last night. Extractor tension seems tight but fine, new spring length/weight seems fine, tried a new recoil spring this morning to test and same thing. Any ideas?

Edited by DDave
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Do a complete clean and inspection of parts to look for broken parts, ejector, extractor, link, etc.  Did you go back with the same weights on the springs ? Not knowing your ability in understanding  the operating procedure of a 1911, make sure everything is put back correctly. Does it cycle by hand without any type of dragging or binding. Use enough lube.

Edited by troupe
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Yes complete/detail clean is done every time I swap springs, same spring weight, well lubricated, just random FTEs now both live and with snap caps now. The issue might be the extractor tension but I'm not really sure how it could get tighter with use but I'm not completely writing that off yet.  

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If springs are the same and nothing else has changed, then it has to be something with how you put it back together.  I would check to make sure the mainspring, plunger, retainer pin, etc. are fully seated, that the sear spring is flat against the frame, and all that.  Then check the guide rod, spring and top end parts.  Basically, make sure everything is put together correctly.  If that doesn't solve the problem, maybe try some different springs.  Although I wouldn't expect it from Wolff, it's possible the springs were mislabeled, or not actually as advertised.  

 

I doubt it's the extractor tension, but if you need to set that, it's easy.  Take a round and slide it under the extractor hook.  There should be light resistance, not a lot, and not tight.  Then hold the slide horizontal with the round up against the breech face.  The extractor should have enough tension to hold it in place.  If you need to adjust it, take the slide stop out and pull the ejector out about 75% of it's length from the slide bore and give it a slight bend one way or the other, to increase or decrease tension.  Then reassemble and check.  May take a couple tries to get it right.  Basically, you're bending the extractor about half way between the center and the hook end.

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37 minutes ago, DDave said:

going to try out the old spring next time I can get to the range this weekend, also seeing if someone local has a spring weight gauge to see if what I got are out of spec

If nobody has a gauge you can Google how to make one pretty easily

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I had something similar start happening recently and it turned out to be part of the extractor tip broke off. There was still enough of it to extract 99% of the time but once or twice out of 100 rounds it would stove pipe. was hard to tell until i removed the extractor and examined it.

 

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21 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

Make sure your ejector tip didn't get snapped off.

My first thought too. Especially if you say that snap caps aren't ejecting, which I'm guessing you're hand cycling, so recoil spring rate won't come into play.

Edited by Postal Bob
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So even small changes to the hammer/recoil spring will change the timing of the gun.  That being said, unless you added a ton of weight to both, it's odd a 1911 that extracted/ejected fine started having problems with lighter springs.  For the extractor spring tension, just take note that if you add too much tension, it may cause a fail to feed or clunkyness in feeding since the new round has to defeat the extractor and get under the extractor.  This can be exacerbated if you are running a light recoil spring as that is what is making that process happen.

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