rpm8300

With my CZ, if the first shot is 15 yards or in, it is a non-issue and I just pull through. Even with an 11lbs main spring, the entire pull is smooth and around 5 lbs. If the target is past 15, I load the trigger to about 8/10th, and then complete the press. After a good bit of practice and shooting DA/SA off and on since 2013, this technique pretty much makes it a single action pull and happens pretty quickly.

N320 is prob your best bet; it works well with literally everything - light and heavy bullets, moly, plated, FMJ. I ran AA2 which is very close to N320 as far as burn rate, how it meters, how it feels. N320 is a tick cleaner and more consistent.

Have you looked at ammo makers that cater for USPSA - i.e. Freedom Munitions?

It will fill at a faster rate than FMJs but it wasn't a huge issue; many folks run Blues for open major.

You will love this new combo - having shot SS and open, I love LO with 9mm 147 gr at 130 PF. Please let us know what you end up doing for parts and labor to make this happen. I bet others would be interested in who can do a value redo of a 2011 -> LO. Thanks, Tom

I think you'll find its like riding a bike; I would shoot lim optics, carry optics or PCC to get you back in the rhythm. Those divisions allow for lots of rounds in the mag so you aren't going through lots of reloads. Aside from the previously mentioned safety DQ guidance, I would go in with a 5 to 1, alpha to non-alpha ratio. This is obviously higher than what you'll find looking at the score cards of top competitors. The logic is, mentally set a goal for hits so you're not getting frustrated or wrapped around the axel with running around the stage or having some crazy stage plan. You can ramp it up dynamically after a couple stages if you feel comfortable. Walking away from the first few matches with botched reloads and mikes will make for a tough mental ramp up back to the sport.

I've tried a few different techniques based on the guidance from expert shooters, e.g Vogel. I've found that for the support hand, it works consistently across guns if I have a contact point between my index finger knuckle and the bottom of the trigger guard. From there, I apply 85% of max strength on the support hand. For my strong hand, I've found that I have the most mobility with my trigger finger if I keep it around 60%. This is the right balance for me between adding some stability for the gun and having the finger feel 'free'.

Hey Joe, no this was just the gun; that mount may cause an issue but the was the holster is, there is some room to have some stuff underneath the rail

My first run is almost always not the best, for drills or actual stages. When doing training, I try to do the first run of a drill exactly like I would shoot it if it were in a stage in a match. This means I'm going about 85%; assigning a number means different things to different people but my 85% means I'm almost never going to have penalties and am targeting 3 or 4 to 1 A to non-Alpha ratio (shooting minor in CO/PCC). In training, that helps establish a baseline off which I can push and explore limits. For example, can I begin movement a little earlier in a tough engagement, or can I shoot a tough engagement on the way in to a position.

A couple additional data points - the ETS mags worked 100% for me in 3 guns - the Ruger PCC, MBX 9mm carbine, and my JP5. Ironically, the MBX 140mm 9mm mag does not work well in either the MBX carbine or JP5 - the mag was rubbings and doesn't fall free without modification. OEM Glock mags + Taylor Freelance basepads is what I run for classifier reloads off the belt.

I'll preface that there is no 'right' answer - what has worked for me is support hand is very firm - if 100% is the literal max pressure I can physically apply, I'm probably at 80%. For the strong hand, I grip it about 70% but I've found if I leave the pinky a little looser, my trigger finger seems to move faster and more freely.

Blue Bullets sells them - https://thebluebullets.com/special-order-356/

FWIW, I use a lot of the 147 RN and FP Blues in their normal .355 offering; I tried their .356s and didn't see any difference. This was in a CZ Shadow 2.

I ran the M Carbo, I think it made a small difference; of all the mods I did, the TG9 trigger had the biggest impact. I played with different spring weights and the gun was super flat with 147 Blues and fast power - a very small charge made 132PF with very little movement of the dot.

My 92X Perf works well with my CR Speed "WSM II" Holster.

FWIW, I ran the Ruger for a bit to include Area 8 years ago - it's an amazing PCC for the money. To go along with the value theme, it ran ETS 40 round translucent mags 100%.

I've run my JP5 for a few matches now and the 70 degree seems to be the sweet spot for 124s at 135PF. Of note, I left everything else pretty much stock to get a good baseline, with the exception of a wave spring at behind the SCS. The PCC is legit - definitely better than a traditional blowback and 1000% more reliable than the 3 MPXs I ran.

I shoot a 5" DS in LO; it's a great value but required a little bit of tweaking. With 147s and medium burn rate velocity, the 5" is just about right for timing and dot recovery. I haven't shot the 4.25 but generally I think for competition the 5 is the best bet. Try different recoil spring weights starting with 8 lbs, and tune the extractor for sure.

I think 3N37 is a good choice; I liked 3N38 but it did fill the case up pretty high. If your brass and reloading setup is perfectly dialed in, it's not an issue. I used the spill prevention buffers in my 1050 and was able to make it work although I had to be pretty slow and deliberate compared to 3.0 grains of Titegroup for 9mm. I could get 170-172 PF with Blue Bullets a with 0.1 or 0.2 less powder of 3N38 compared to FMJ offerings; the case is still full but that helped a little. I've tried AA7, it is dirty and flakey so I stayed away; HS6 is a close 2nd on dirtyness. WAC was easy and drama free but wasn't the best to shoot; honestly my backup to 3N38 was Silhouette. It was good on gas for the comp and didn't fill the case up.

In addition to all the great ideas already listed, one drill that may help and is related to calling shots is a dummy round drill. I have done the call your shot drill and added dummy rounds to get more feedback on what I'm doing. Set up an half covered IPSC or 2/3 covered USPSA target at 20yds; load 10 rounds with 1 dummy. Have a buddy load a dummy round or if you are loading your own ammo, load one with a spent primer and no powder that would feel the same as your other rounds. Put them all in a bag or box and just grab and load them without looking so you won't know where the dummy round is. You can draw and fire one, draw fire two, or if you are really honing in on the basics, treat it as a bullseye drill and stand with pistol out, perfect grip/stance, and no time limit. Fire off the 10 rounds and note with pen/paper or just remember where you think the print is. At some point, you'll hit the dummy round; the mental shift to calling your shots helps you be extra aware of what is going on with your trigger press. Hopefully, when the hammer/striker falls on the dead round, you'll get even more of a look and feel of what you're doing. Finish the drill; you may end up changing your press for the rest of remainder of the rounds.

To add more details, I favored RTS2s for a while but on my CO guns, the glass was coming loose. This happened on 2 dots; Cmore does a very good job of replacing these sorts of optics quickly. It was odd because I'm running relatively soft loads that shouldn't be breaking optics frequently, i.e. 147 with medium burn rate powder. The RTS2s are otherwise pretty good, now that they have quite a few revisions under their belt. The SRO had a halo issue in its earlier versions but they seemed to have fixed this. The optic itself seems very rugged and I like the profile backwards compatibility with the RMR and the top loading battery design. The glass is large, clear, and the dot granularity is very good. Lastly I will say I also like the R3MAX but its profile makes it a bit of a problem; it's not really backwards compatible with anything and requires adapter and puts the dot higher.

I've run literally everything and everything has failed at some point - except the trusty Cmore Slideride. If I could mount that on my CO gun, I would. I settled on SRO 2.5 for CO. I have had one fail and Trijicon replaced it quickly. It was probably a fluke thing but that dot had seen less than 500 rounds and went completely dead during dry fire; true story. Trijicon was responsive via email and they ended up sending me a completely new optic.

When I was running a Dan Wesson PM9 in SS, I ran Tripp mags successfully for a while but nose dives would happen with stoked mags and 147 Blue FPs. Chip Mccormicks ended up being the best; you may need to tune the lips a little to make sure you have a good orientation for that first round with a stoked mag.

1.165 with 125 Blues; it is a tight fit but not compressed with 3N38 @ 172 PF. This length has worked with all of my open guns and mags - when I do my OAL spot checks, 1.17 is the upper limit for acceptance testing.

I've loaded a bunch of Blue Bullet 125 TC and RNs - my Tanfos aren't reamed so I've found 1.10 is a good OAL that leaves a little room for anything out of spec. For powders, I would recommend medium burn rate for 125 Blues, HP38, AA2, N320, etc.