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What causes bullets to keyhole?


Ontarget

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With some recent 9mm reloads, I noticed minor keyholing on the target. The bullets were RN Blue bullets 125g. What causes bullets to keyhole? Is it

a problem with the bullets or with the reloading process? Thanks.

Edited by Ontarget
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9minor or 9MAJOR? Minor loads it’s generally weak loads or possibly an over crimping issue or simply the gun doesn’t like those bullets. What is FPS?

MAJOR loads can be same thing but typically it’s comp strikes

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.355 diameter bullets shooting an  M&P Pro. I don't see any problems with the barrel. That was measured velocity.


                4.0g Win 231   15 shots  Hi= 1047   Lo= 985   Av=1016   ES= 62   SD=18   PF= 127,000

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Usually too much crimp will make the bullets keyhole.  Do you know what your crimp is? 

Here's how to measure crimp.

"With a caliper measure the thickness of the brass at the case mouth, multiply times two and add the bullet diameter. That's your zero. After running your rounds through the crimp die, measure the loaded round at the case mouth and the difference from your zero is your crimp".
 

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5 hours ago, Ontarget said:

These are minor loads at about 1000-1050 fps. 127K power factor.

If it were me I would bump the load .2-.4 and make sure crimp is ballpark .378 and rechrono and look for keyholing

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Thanks, Gentlemen, for your replies.

 I have been using the Dillon crimp die. I'll check my measurements on the crimp.

I'm not expert at how much crimp is enough, so I will try to understand this better. Usually, if the

rounds fit the Dillon 9mm case gauge, I assumed the crimp was correct.

Do you recommend I change to the Lee FCD?

Edited by Ontarget
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Poor bullet design. Bullet damaged. Bullet damaged during firing (many causes). Improper bullet ogive. Bullet too small or too big for barrel. Bullet losing jacket (various causes). Wrong bullet weight/shape/design/velocity for rifling twist rate. Worn rifling. Damaged or off center crown. Bullet striking muzzle device. Too much bullet crimp. Barrel fouled. There's more but I got bored.

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If you have any, maybe try some factory ammo to rule out the gun/barrel.  If you don’t keyhole with the factory ammo then most likely it’s your load. If you key hole with the factory ammo then it’s most likely the barrel and/or gun. 

 

That way you identify the issue quicker, saving ammo and time. 

Edited by Boomstick303
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21 hours ago, Ontarget said:

Do you recommend I change to the Lee FCD?

NO It has been known to cause your issue!

 Next question:

How are you determining that the bullets are tumbling? 

"Bad" cardboard has been known to cause some to believe they have issues .They do not.

Unsupported paper taires like tumbling.   Etc.

 

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The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right?  I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets. 
 

Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate?  Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold?  I thought they both had pretty hard jackets. 
 

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2 hours ago, Cuz said:

The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right?  I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets. 

Correct

 

2 hours ago, Cuz said:

Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate?  Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold?  I thought they both had pretty hard jackets. 

There could be accuracy issues.  These issues may not show up at normal uspsa distances.otherwise Correct.

Edited by AHI
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20 hours ago, Cuz said:

The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right?  I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets. 
 

Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate?  Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold?  I thought they both had pretty hard jackets. 
 

The Lee die has more affect on cast and coated bullets because generally they are larger diameter, ie .356”. This bulges the case slightly more than a .355 bullet. The whole theory behind the die is that it resizes the loaded rounds to make sure they will function in any gun. The problem with this is the carbide ring at the base of the die also squeezes the bullet down inside the case making it smaller too. If you have thick brass it’s even worse. I have pulled and measured some that after using the die on them were squeezed down to .353.  With jacketed and some plated they are small enough and hard enough to resist the swaging and most of the time don’t even touch the bottom ring. Some of the plated bullets will swage down but they tolerate it better because of the plating being harder than a poly coating. Hope this helps. 

Edited by Farmer
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Yes, thanks, the last 3 replies confirm what I’ve always believed. Basically, the U die is best only used with jacketed bullets. 
 

And, sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought it had some pertinence to the topic. 

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45 minutes ago, Cuz said:

Yes, thanks, the last 3 replies confirm what I’ve always believed. Basically, the U die is best only used with jacketed bullets. 
 

And, sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought it had some pertinence to the topic. 

U die is not the same die as the Factory crimp die. two different dies.

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