Decapping issues - 9mm with Lee Universal Decapping Die

[X5Zuke]

I am new to the group and was not able to find any info already discussed that helped so I am reaching out for insight.  I just started processing some 9 mm range brass and noticed some of the casings were significantly more difficult to deprime that others.  At some points I was applying so much pressure the pin was backing out of the collar and eventually, after tightening the collar to hold the pin more firmly, I bent the the pin.

 

I am using a Lee single stage press with the universal depriming die.  I realize the crimped casing could be more difficult, but I didn't think they would be this difficult - assuming that is my issue??  Any insight would be appreciated!

[NOSHMJ]

Look at the headstamps of the brass you are having issues with, and see if it has a date or the military symbol.  Those primers are crimped and tend to be much harder to deprime.  I tend to set those casings aside for later.

[HesedTech]

19 minutes ago, X5Zuke said:

At some points I was applying so much pressure the pin was backing out of the collar and eventually, after tightening the collar to hold the pin more firmly, I bent the the pin.

I assume you are not trying to decap berdan primed cases. 

 

Personally I have found the Lee pins really need to be tightened down and will slip on the more difficult primers. This is Lee's way of protecting the pins, but as you found they still get bent.

 

Squirrel Daddy make hardened pins for Lee dies which do last longer.

https://www.squirreldaddy.com/Decapping-pin-s/336.htm

 

Of all the de-priming dies I have the one which consistently works the best with all brass, military rifle to pistol, is the Mighty Armory die. 

https://www.mightyarmory.com/collections/decapping-dies/products/mighty-armory-the-blue-ap-auto-decapping-die

 

I also understand FW Arms works great, however I have no experience with it.

https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/f-w-arms-auto-center-decapper/

 

The other issue you could be having is corroded primer pockets, especially if the brass is wet tumbled before de-priming.

[AlbertCampion]

Likely some had crimped in primers. If that is the reason new primers will not load until the crimp is removed. Mostly I use a Hornady primer pocket tool and touch up with and RCBS case mouth tool.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012744621?pid=501588

 

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101293302?pid=465641

[X5Zuke]

Thank you for all the insight.  What I am hearing is what I was thinking.  Just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy or missing something.  I started just setting aside the more difficult casings and will address them later.

[Farmer]

Some also have sealer on them with the crimp. Makes it a real pita. Putting them in the sun to warm or some other method to heat them up works wonders. They have to get pretty warm, 100+deg so make sure there’s no live ones. I separate the crimped ones and process later. 

[4n2t0]

Quickly sort through your range brass and only load domestic brands (Winchester, Federal, Remington etc.). Toss anything that's crimped, stepped or foreign. I'm not suggesting that foreign brass isn't good but culling them should nearly eliminate all brass related problems (crimped and or tight pockets, thick brass etc.).

Edited August 7, 2021 by 4n2t0

[NETim]

CBC brass is my enemy.   About 95% of CBC brass loads are rejected by my Hundo.   

[Dirty_J]

5 hours ago, NETim said:

CBC brass is my enemy.   About 95% of CBC brass loads are rejected by my Hundo.   

I used to have that problem with CBC. My RL1100 has taken care of most of that. Unsure why… still running Dillon dies. 

[rooster]

Do a search on which brass to use for 9mm. I scrap any brass with funny numbers or letters, that’s usually military.  Scrap S&B, CBC any brass where you can’t make out a headstamp, that’s an indicator of being shot a lot. Any stepped brass has got to go. Over on the CZ forum they have a post about 9mm brass it’s a good read. 

[Rasmilling]

Some of the newer ammunition with non-lead primers has a smaller hole through the casehead. 

S&B NonTox is almost impossible to decap with regular pins.. They are simply too wide. 

Edited August 12, 2021 by Rasmilling

[obsessiveshooter]

The lee die needs to be tightened WAY more than you would think for it to stay in place.  As in tighter than most people can manage using tools shorter than 6".  You can get it tight enough to keep it in place though. 

[Sigarmsp226]

2 hours ago, Rasmilling said:

Some of the newer ammunition with non-lead primers has a smaller hole through the casehead. 

S&B NonTox is almost impossible to decap with regular pins.. They are simply too wide. 

RAS - Thank you Sir - I did not know this and I know of one gentleman who shoots in our monthly steel challenge match that prefers to shoot lead free and/or non-toxic ammo…I will keep my eye out for this on my future range pick up brass…Mark

[Farmer]

1 hour ago, obsessiveshooter said:

The lee die needs to be tightened WAY more than you would think for it to stay in place.  As in tighter than most people can manage using tools shorter than 6".  You can get it tight enough to keep it in place though. 

Mine kept slipping so I took it apart and noticed that there were burr’s all over the de-capping rod nut. Cleaned them all off, ran some sandpaper through the slot and polished up anything that had a burr on it. When they cut that slot it leaves a sharp raised edge that digs into the die body making it difficult to tighten. I put a dab of Imperial sizing wax on the tapered end and the threads and now mine takes about half the effort to tighten. 

[Farmer]

3 hours ago, Rasmilling said:

Some of the newer ammunition with non-lead primers has a smaller hole through the casehead. 

S&B NonTox is almost impossible to decap with regular pins.. They are simply too wide. 

That’s odd, friend of mine had some Blazer brass with notox and it had huge flashole’s. Almost looks like 1/8”. Always read that the notox primers had less power and needed the larger hole. 

Edited August 12, 2021 by Farmer
Sp

[Rasmilling]

12 hours ago, Farmer said:

That’s odd, friend of mine had some Blazer brass with notox and it had huge flashole’s. Almost looks like 1/8”. Always read that the notox primers had less power and needed the larger hole. 

I only know S&B NonTox, and the flashhole is smaller on those. 

Edited August 13, 2021 by Rasmilling

[Service Desk]

FC NT 9mm's have a larger hole and a crimp. Nothing that the Super 1050's can't handle.