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Sometimes I would like to take a sledge hammer to this 1050


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Problem's I'm having either a decaped primer hang in the case causing a live primer to be smashed in with it, or no primer at all dumping powder all along the shell plate until I realize what's going on., very frustrating.  all that powder working it's way under the shell plate uggg!!  I use my air compressor to try and blow it out but it's only a matter of time I will have to tear it apart.     surprised that the primers haven't gone off.  I hate the fact that I have to watch every primer dump into the cup or check to make sure one isn't half stuck.  I highly doubt I have gone thru 100 rounds without something going wrong.  when I bought this thing I had no idea I was going to have to prep all these cases before I could reload them,  I expected to trim them to length after several firings but From what I have read and noticing that dillion makes a case prep machine, it looks like that it the only way to insure not having all these issues.   I also have a 650 loading 9 mm and it's been much easier to deal with ,  I loaded 500 tonight on it and never had an issue.  

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Here is what I'd check, mine used to be problematic too. 

 

1. The primer slide is being stopped by the bolt and washer behind the press.

2. The blue tip on the primer feed tube is in good condition. 

3. The shellplate doesn't press down when tightened up or has any up movement when the press is in the lowest position. 

4. Use the swage back up die to help stop shellplate movement. 

5. If your primer slide roller has a plastic tube on it replace with it with the newer brass option.

6. Make sure the press runs smoothly without any big jolts that could flip the primers in the primer slide. Use case lube. 

7. The arm that actuates the primer slide should be in position on its own accord. If the shellplate pins align it you will have issues. Mine started playing up a few weeks ago and new springs fixed it. 

 

Hope that can help.

 

 

 

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I've only got a few thousand rounds through my 1050, but I already know that before I start a loading session, it's a good idea to take the primer magazine off and clean the primer slide thingy and slot where it goes back and forth.  As long as it's clean, it works for me.

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Look on page 13 of the owners manual fig 33.

If that assembly is a little high it will cause your issues.

Dirt /crap/corn cob media in the slide parts will cause issues also.

The only primer issues i have had were related to the bracket assembly 

in fig 33. If the has "jammed" the tends to move up putting the primer system out of time.

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What you need is a 650. If you send me your 1050 ill send you my 650. Primes perfectly :)

 

I had similar issues when I was on a 550.I know they are not the same machines but im sure theres a little tweeking that can be done to minimize your issues

-I upgraded to a roller bearing guide for it. Im not sure this exists for the 1050.

-re-bent the rod that moves the slide back and forth

-Cleaned every 1500 decappings or so and lubricated

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9 hours ago, XL6504ME said:

Problem's I'm having either a decaped primer hang in the case causing a live primer to be smashed in with it, or no primer at all dumping powder all along the shell plate until I realize what's going on., very frustrating.

 

If the primers hang onto the decapping pin and pull back up into the brass you will very quickly screw up the plastic piece on the end of the primer tube and create the inconsistent primer feed problem. I suspect you know this :) . 

 

I can't remember the last time I have had a primer hang since I switched to a Lee decapping die, however, I also learned that it was easy to feel the resistance created by a hung primer at the swage position and remove the offending brass there before it got o the primer feed position. Could be that I have had some hangers with the Lee die and just do not remember them because it is a non event for me now. 

 

On the bright side, seems like the plastic pieces are lasting me for about 5,000 rounds now and I pretty much do not have issues as long as I clean things up somewhere arond 10,000 rounds.

 

Dillon told me that a particular brand of primer was worse about getting pulled back up but I do not recall the brand. 

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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The simple fix for me was to just increase how far down the decap pin goes on the deprime/resize die. Haven't had one stick in probably about 15k+ cycles now. As others have mentioned, you'll usually be able to feel a sort of squishy/spongy feel at the bottom of the stroke, and the swage station is always the first one to check for me. Haven't had a crushed primer because of this for a while now, but it took me probably about 1-2k rounds and maybe 20-30 crushed primers before I figured out the feel of it too.

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Even on a 550 I had problems with primer pull back in 9mm. I think part of the problem was the spring loaded decapping pin on the Dillon Dies.  When I start using the S1050 on 9mm I might try the Lee Die.  Wonder if flattening the pin would help, or taking it to a finer point?

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5 minutes ago, pskys2 said:

Even on a 550 I had problems with primer pull back in 9mm. I think part of the problem was the spring loaded decapping pin on the Dillon Dies.  When I start using the S1050 on 9mm I might try the Lee Die.  Wonder if flattening the pin would help, or taking it to a finer point?

 

My standard unmodded 9mm lee die only had that primer pull back happen like 1 in 20,000 rounds. But the lee universal decapper has that pull back problem like 1/4 of the time. I had to do the chisel mod. I don't understand why one die doesn't have a problem & the other one does; when both pin had the same profile.

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