S&w 9mm Revolver

[Airedale]

OK-Randy and company have got the 625E project rolling.

Now how about stroking S&W to build a good L frame 9mm, moonclipped, wheelgun for those who don't shoot N frames.

Mrs. Airedale, for example, has small hands. The N frame is too large for her. She now shoots a moonclipped 586 w/ .38Spc reloads. I'm now in the middle of the .38 short colt reloading process. This is a PIA.

I suspect a moonclipped 9mm would sell well. Ammo is cheap and easy to find.

I'm not suggesting Ti,Scandium, unobtainium, etc. just a good basic revo that can have a trigger job and maybe new sights (FO) to shoot with.

What say ye?

Dave

[cooper_999]

Just some ideas and thoughts:

- some years ago, I´ve read something about a replacement-cylinder for 5/686s in 9mm - the test there was not bad

- why not countersink the standard .357 cylinder chamber for 9mm? I´ve seen a nice 686 with a cut cylinder half as long as a .357 cylinder, changed for 9mm and a deeper seated barrel

- and last but not least - you can resize a brand new (never shot) 9mm case with a .357 die for fitting to the standard .357 cylinder chamber

OK - a completely ready set up 9mm 686 directly from S&W maybe also quite nice and much less complicated - but to be sure, I don´t think that they will do something like that....

DVC!

Sascha

[revchuck]

Is there a technical reason it wouldn't work with a K frame? I just find the K frames easier to shoot, even with Major loads. I guess it's due to the relatively lower bore line. Since it would probably be shooting Minor loads, I don't think that durability would be a big issue.

[Airedale]

Sasha,

Isn't there a bullet diameter difference between .357 and 9mm that will affect accuracy? BTW lived in Wurzburz & Kitzingen for a few years-beautiful country.

Chuck,

The reason I suggested the L frame is S&W is reportedly dropping the K frame line. I agree-K frame would suit the purpose as well or better.

Dave

[Randy Lee]

If I'm not mistaken, Smith has phased out the K-frame in favor of the L.

[Randy Lee]

And, If I would have read Airedale's last post, I would not have posted my last reply...Too many solvents in here...passing out now...

[spook]

There's a thread out here somewhere that deals with the "shooting .355 bullets in a .357 barrel". I remember that it doesn't matter for accuracy very much (accuracy still being plenty good enuff for our game).

I know Tom Kilhoffer makes the 9mm L-Frame clips (used for his 9x23 conversions) and sells them for $34,95/10 clips.

If you reload, you could relaod your 9mms with .357 bullets I guess.

[Middle Man]

.355 diameter on the 9mm and .357 in the standard 686 barrel. Depends on how much accuracy you want. And well, Spook beat me to it...

As a side note, Taurus showed a Tri Caliber 9/38/357 medium frame and a snubby at the 2005 Shot Show, but it appears to have been shelved. And I think it was done years back before my time by a now defunct revolver company.

Edited September 22, 2005 by Middle Man

[Randy Lee]

Dave Hearth... are you out there?

[Jerry V]

If I'm not mistaken, Smith has phased out the K-frame in favor of the L.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Actually, the K frame was only dropped for the 357Mag, it's still being made for the 38spl & 22lr.

I think the 9mm would be a good idea for the K frame & 40 s&w for the L frame. Both moonclipped & reasonably priced, might be just the thing to help grow the revolver division.

--- Jerry

[Bill Nesbitt]

I have a 686x6 38 super Performance Center gun. I can shoot some 9mm's in it but not all.

I just sized some 9 brass in my 38 super EGW die. I have some processed brass from Midway that drops right in the cylinder after being clipped in Hearthco clips. Some old Glock brass develops the belted magnum syndrome when sized in the super die and just barely fits when clipped.

Somebody told me that S&W wouldn't do a 9mm because it was too expensive to tool up. They already had stuff for 38 super.

Bill Nesbitt

[Carmoney]

I think the 9mm would be a good idea for the K frame & 40 s&w for the L frame. Both moonclipped & reasonably priced, might be just the thing to help grow the revolver division.

As for door number two, Jerry, I'm sure you've seen the Model 646, right?

Got this one for $419 + tax over the counter at Sportsman's Warehouse last spring. Wish I'd bought the other one they had, but at least I directed one of my shooting buddies to it.... Originally a great gun for IDPA, until the rule changes goofed everything up. Not quite as great for IPSC/USPSA, since major loads rock the shooter a little too much. Still a good option for the shooter with smaller hands who's willing to score minor.

[Jerry V]

Mike,

I checked out a 646 (PC barrel &Ti cyl) before and I agree - too light for IPSC Major. I was thinking more like a 686 (full-lug barrel) except in 40sw. I think this would be a great set-up and by offering cartridges people are using in their auto's in a revolver, it might make it more attractive for them to try revolver division. Right there is really only one choice -- 625, now that the 610 is discontinued. We need more choices and at reasonable prices. Nothing fancy, just all steel & moonclipped in popular pistol cartridges with the weight to reasonably handle major pf.

Just a thought

---Jerry

Nice revolver Just noticed yours is a full lug barrel, hadn't seen one like that. Does it have the Ti cylinder?

Edited September 23, 2005 by Jerry V

[underlug]

In my opinion, the 9mm revolver should be an N frame 8 shot

[hearthco]

Wow,

Im not reading this forum for like 2 days and we get off on this new thread.

I dont think you will get good results trying to size 9mm with 357 dies. The cases are much to thick. We did try brand new unfired 9s in a case pro and still had ejection probs in 38 super cylinder.

L frame cylinders(7 shot) are small enough that they had to be chambered at a slight angle(1/4 of a degree) in relation to the C/L of the cylinder, so the bolt circle in the back of the cylinder is slightly larger than the bolt circle at the muzzle end. That gonna make for thin walls when you open up to 9mm.

If you really want to go 9mm in a 357 6 shot cylinder, just ream it with the 9mm reamer.

Dave

[stiracer]

I am new to this forum but have lots of experience with S&W

I have done several I.C.O.R.E guns and many more PPC guns!

I shoot USPSA in Indiana and know AIREDALE from shooting with him at Silver creek.

If you want a 9mm revo that is no problem and probably cheaper then you think

Simply shorten a 686 cylinder and rechamber it to 9mm then Re-Barrel to a five inch Douglas/ Shilen/ Clark barrel and your there!!!!!!!!!

You may try to call S&W to see if they have any 9mm cylinders left but i doubt it?

Racer!

[Carmoney]

Racer--welcome to the forum!! Even with a name like stiracer, we're glad to have your first post be here on the revolver board!

Mike

[cooper_999]

If you want a 9mm revo that is no problem and probably cheaper then you think

Simply shorten a 686 cylinder and rechamber it to 9mm then Re-Barrel to a five inch Douglas/ Shilen/ Clark barrel and your there!!!!!!!!!

You may try to call S&W to see if they have any 9mm cylinders left but i doubt it?

Racer!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yep - this was the thing I discribed - but not used the correct words...

DVC!

Sascha

[10mmdave]

L frame cylinders(7 shot) are small enough that they had to be chambered at a slight angle(1/4 of a degree) in relation to the C/L of the cylinder, so the bolt circle in the back of the cylinder is slightly larger than the bolt circle at the muzzle end.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Now that's interesting

[DougCarden]

Stiracer, how is accuracy when you shorten the cylinder? Is there a preferred method or type of taper into the barrel from the cylinder. I have been told that the Taylor method works best, but wondered what works well for you. TIA, DougC......( you see I have this 8 shot that I want to shorten up to 38 short colt and ...)

[stiracer]

I have been told that the Taylor method works best, but wondered what works well for you. TIA, DougC......( you see I have this 8 shot that I want to shorten up to 38 short colt and ...)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[/

DougC, I am not sure of your question but from what i make of it here goes!

If you shorten the cylinder to a 9mm standard length ( to free up some of that rotating mass ) ( as in lightening up the action) Now i say standard length just because you could use winchester white box and any other inexpensive ammo for plinking!

Now after the long explanation i will get back to adding a barrel and cutting the forcing cone long enough to come 4000ths away from the cylinder and obviously cutting an 18 degree chamfer in the forcing cone to accept a jacketed bullet your worries on accuracy are over with the correct muzzle crown!

And just something for you guys to chew on i have been testing a cylinder chamfer lately that looks like it works extremely well, I have actually started chamfering an 18 degree cut in the forcing cone side of the cylinder to start the gasses into the forcing cone from the cylinder!!!!! and so far it is awesome it seems to help accuracy at 50 yards and the best part is it takes most of the gas down the barrel instead of the cylinder face which all of you should no there are allot of benefits if this to happens!

[R112mercer]

STIRacer;

For this new 18 degree cylinder chamfer what test gun are you using? A 9mm or a .38 Special PPC gun? Jacketed or lead bullets (with a .38 I'd imagine you're using 148 HBWC)?

[DougCarden]

Kool, My gun is packed up and ready to go to the smith! Thanks for the info! Doug

[stiracer]

STIRacer;

For this new 18 degree cylinder chamfer what test gun are you using?  A 9mm or a .38 Special PPC gun?  Jacketed or lead bullets (with a .38 I'd imagine you're using 148 HBWC)?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

R112,

I do all of my chamfers at 18 degrees but for the moment i am playing with a .38(model10) with a shilen barrel on it and with the 18 degree chamfer you should use jacketed bullets! If you want to shoot wad cutters or even semi-wad cutters in lead i suggest lerss chamfer say 8 to 11 degrees do to bullet deformation!

Racer!

[R112mercer]

STIRacer;

For this new 18 degree cylinder chamfer what test gun are you using?  A 9mm or a .38 Special PPC gun?  Jacketed or lead bullets (with a .38 I'd imagine you're using 148 HBWC)?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

R112,

I do all of my chamfers at 18 degrees but for the moment i am playing with a .38(model10) with a shilen barrel on it and with the 18 degree chamfer you should use jacketed bullets! If you want to shoot wad cutters or even semi-wad cutters in lead i suggest lerss chamfer say 8 to 11 degrees do to bullet deformation!

Racer!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My PPC gun has a Shilen tube on it with a *huge* forcing cone chamfer. Looks like a funnel. The gun shoots 2" or so with either 148 HBWC or 158 SWC loads, better than I can do with it. I'll ask the guy who built it about the forcing cone when I see him.