R112mercer

Per his brother's post on Facebook longtime revolver competitor, firearm's instructor, cowboy, and all around gentleman Rudolf Waldinger passed away earlier today. I had the honor and pleasure of shooting with Rudy in the early 2000's. He was a kind, humble, and polite shooter who could really burn a stage down. Rudy lived the American dream, immigrating from Austria to the US to fulfill his dream of living in the Southwest. Rudy was a veteran of the Austrian military and was very highly trained in weapons and tactics. Upon arrival in the US Rudy initially worked as a Foreign National in service of the US State Dept. and later went on to found and run his own training corporation. Till Valhalla Rudy, we'll shoot together some day...

Shiner Bock ftw!

+1 on this, I had a Gen 1 SCS in my AR10 and had nothing but problems. Not the same problem as the original poster, mine was failure to fully chamber the next round. Switched to the Gen 2 with the heaviest spring they offer, upped the gas, and gun runs much better. Good luck.

I run 4 double stack pistol mags (I shoot an S&W M&P45) plus two rifle mag holders. One rifle mag in front of my holster, one behind my pistol mag holders on my left side. If I need an extra rifle mag I place it in my right rear pocket. I use two six round and three four round California Competition shotshell holders for shotgun. I prefer these for He-Man matches because the venues I shoot in are usually pretty physical & have you laying on uncomfortable prone positions.

I'm assuming you mean Heavy Metal Limited not Heavy Scope. I already shipped my ammo for Heavy Scope so there's no backing out now! See you all there!

The Troy handguard is designed to clamp to a milspec barrel nut. You don't need much room between the handguard and the barrel to be considered free floated, so long as the barrel cannot make contact with the handguard while firing or if you pull/push the handguard with your support hand. I re-read your first post & saw you re-used a DPMS barrel nut, just do an image search & make sure it looks like a milspec nut.

Check to make sure the barrel nut is tight enough. I know you said you don't own a torque wrench but maybe you could borrow/rent one? Once you're sure the barrel nut is tight enough then tighten the handguard screws nice and snug. For the gasblock what I usually do is block the barrel at one end, install the gasblock without tightening the set screws, then blow shop air down the open end of the barrel. You can then tune the gasblock by twisting/shifting it until the air flow sounds strongest. Then tighten down the set screws.

Quag, I fly to a few matches. The easiest thing is to ship your ammo, either to the hotel you're staying at (put "c/o your name - guest arriving on such & such date" on the shipping label) or the range itself, if they allow it. Many do. Pro tip: Have a friend who lives in the area of the match stockpile leftover ammo for future matches! ?

Even though I don't have a team I plan on attending with guns & gear in the event there's an opening. If not, then I plan on drinking Yuengling and heckling Bryan Ray & Brian Vaught all day!

Dean, Unfortunately I have to bow out of the match. I knew in advance that one teammate wasn't able to make the match, but now my *other* teammate's family member just came down with a serious illness. Unhappy I'm going to miss this match, always a favorite of mine. Good luck to those who are shooting!

Use a small base die and screw it all the way in till it touches the shell plate. Also, buy a case gauge and gauge each sized (empty) piece of brass. I recommend the JP chamber gauge as it's made for his chambers and they're very tight. Also, are you trimming the brass?

CPWSA makes a nice mag holder for .308 mags. I also have Bryan's handicap in the belt real estate dept and using this holder I can squeeze one mag next to my holster. I put another mag behind my back (!) and one in my right rear pocket if it's a really big stage. As for barrel length, I went with a 16" barrel, the .308 doesn't suffer as much velocity loss as the .223 as the barrel gets shorter. Finished it off with a JP Handguard, low mass bolt carrier, and Syrac adjustable gas block. I'd second on the recommendation for an adjustable block, the .308 uses the same gas components as the .223 but burns twice the powder.

So we're not going to get to shoot off a dead elk? Dang, I was sure JJ was gonna have that in a stage this year!

It ain't He-Man if you don't have a little rock burn on your rifles fore-end!

It's still up in the air from what I heard last. Big question is what to do about out of state shooters entering NY with AR's. They might do an LE-only rifle class instead to avoid any legal questions.

Dean, would it be possible for my team to shoot all the stages on Saturday? Due to an assignment change I have to work on Sunday.

I'm running a JP barrel and use a JP case gauge. According to the gauge I have to bump the shoulder down that far. And some brass *still* doesn't go in the gauge...

Go to Home Depot and get a Countersink for about $10. Get the one with the widest (most shallow cutting) blade. You can use this as a cheap fix to remove the crimp from the brass till your swage tool gets to you. I bump the brass all the down (i.e.: the die touches the shell plate) to ensure reliable feeding, other than that it seems like you're off to a good start!

Welcome to He-Man! I run a Sierra 135 SMK over 46.0 gr. of IMR 4895. Gives me just about 2700 fps out of a 16" barrel. In my Heavy Irons gun I run Sierra 168 SMK's over 43.0 gr. of Varget. No chrono data on that. For 45 I run a 200 SWC from Bayou over 4.1 gr. of Clays. This load makes major.

If you're not using it mail it to me, I'll try it out for you...

+1 for the hooded front sight. When I replaced my front sight base to mount a comp (SJC Titan) I put a shaver front sight on. Allows you to use a wide variety of different front sights, some of which are very fine for long range aiming, the hood shades the sight to make it clearer in adverse lighting, and you can use the globe for up-close shooting.

Wait. You can get Varget?

I'm there!

1) Not to sure about this, but you said your loading for AR's, so you probably want to go with a small base sizing die like Dillon's dies to make sure it'll fit your chamber. I would avoid neck sizing. 2) No opinion, I don't have this. 3) I haven't stuck a case. Yet. No opinion. 4) I use Dillon case lube. 5) I haven't used the Uniquetek toolheads yet, I just purchased one of the screw in ones. But in talking with Uniquetek's owner Lee at Rocky Mountain 3 Gun he said the floating die toolhead is only for benchrest/long range accuracy. Probably overkill if your not doing these activities. 6) I load on a 650, no opinion. 7) If you use JP barrels I would recommend a JP case gauge. If not, Dillon. 8) I use a $10 counter sink I bought at Home Depot to remove Military crimp. Chuck it in a drill, a quick buzz and it's gone. Get the widest/shallowest cutter they have. 9) Dillon 10) I went with Hornady's case activated powder drop and an RCBS funnel. The Hornady unit accepts their powder funnels or the RCBS, it works great, and you can use stick powders like Varget without the bridging issues of Dillon funnels. 11) No opinion 12) I use a xl650, no opinion. 13) I don't flashhole deburr, I don't have time for that and I don't hang on to my brass that long to make it worthwhile. Good luck!

Tater runs a Super Nova, or did at He-Man and RM3G this year.