CZ Open Build Theory

[-JCN-]

 

7 hours ago, Squirrel45 said:

HI  JCN, 

 

Would this affect the use of the stock comp now since it's been shortened? (I know you wouldn't want to switch back but just thinking, what ifs) 

 

Thanks

Squirrel

 

 

I am not sure... but my sense is that it wouldn't affect it at all except for a cosmetic gap. The factory comp ends in the proper orientation at the end of the threads so would be secured by that and the guide rod. You'd just have about 1mm missing from the very end of the muzzle. The other 99%+ of the bushing cone should still seat and function reliably I would think.

 

 

2 hours ago, regor said:

 

How much material did you have to remove? Hoping I don't have to do the same with mine... 

 

About 1mm. So not much. No more than 2mm.

 

If people were concerned about either the factory function or factory slide, then probably the best option is to try and grind the compensator.

 

I just didn't have as much faith with my grinding skills on a complex surface without damaging the bushing cone on the titanium comp. It's very thin.

[Squirrel45]

thank you Sir for your reply, your skills are very impressive. Ill sure be paying attention to your follow ups 

 

thanks 

Squirrel 

[Ludde]

18 hours ago, -JCN- said:

 

 

Have you remembered to check the clearence between the slide and comp after the modification?
Make sure you never have contact between the slide and comp face, also during the movement when the barrel is about to go out of battery. Barrel tilting down at the chamber and muzzle tilting up closing the gap between the upper portion of the slide and comp.

I recommend using feeler gauges. in addition to that you can also with the gun assembled push rearwards on the front face of the comp to force it into its most rearward position in relation to the slide before it (barrel) completely unlocks from the slide, during the whole time you should have light coming through the gap between the comp and slide. 

[-JCN-]

@Ludde

 

Great points!

 

 

 

Edited November 11, 2021 by -JCN-

[Ludde]

1 hour ago, -JCN- said:

@Ludde

 

Great points!

 

 

 

 

From the video it looks like you have enough clearence and also made a nice clean cut, but still try the following.

 

With the whole gun assembled, slide, barrel, recoil spring etc. in the frame. Grab a hold of the frame with one hand and push the comp/barrel straight rearwards until it stops (this is the point of the barrel bottoming out on the slide stop pin and unlocking from the slide). At this point, do you have light between the slide and comp?

 

At the same point, while applying force, you can also try to wiggle/force the comp up/down a bit to see if there is a possibility for any movement (most likely there is and its ok as long as there is clearence) of the comp in relation to the slide that you might have not taken into account in you previous attempt.

[-JCN-]

@Ludde

Looks good. No change with wiggle. 
 

 

[Ludde]

14 minutes ago, -JCN- said:

@Ludde

Looks good. No change with wiggle. 
 

 

 Goood!

[-JCN-]

2 hours ago, Ludde said:

 Goood!

Thanks man, I had a lot more confidence just grinding the face flat and level than I did having to grind the comp around the cone. 
 

Your opinion on @squirrelquestion above on putting stock comp back on with more of a gap? Shouldn’t matter, right? As long as there’s enough cone contact to act like a bushing?

 

I think not having a proper bushing allows the barrel to not really tilt up like a traditional bushing system, no?

 

The Czechmate comp is a rod captured comp which is different than some of the free floating muzzle comps that tilt with traditional barrels. 
 

The front of the Czechmate slide is basically a big open gap like you’d have if your Shadow bushing fell out (BTDT, lol!). 
 

So instead of much tilt upwards if there was a bushing attached to the slide, the barrel is allowed to move downwards to keep the comp in place (it can’t really tilt up more than a whiff because it’s captured). 
 

As an aside, I’d love to have a captured suppressor for that reason. Right now I dislike shooting traditional tilting barrel handgun suppressors with Nielsen devices because of all the tilt, spring and wobble shooting faster. Very unpredictable. 
 

 

Edited November 11, 2021 by -JCN-

[-JCN-]

I had a chance to finally test it today. 
 

Much softer than factory comp, even with holes. 
 

What happens when you don’t clean titanium shavings out completely?

 

Edited November 13, 2021 by -JCN-

[Ludde]

15 hours ago, -JCN- said:

I had a chance to finally test it today. 
 

Much softer than factory comp, even with holes. 
 

What happens when you don’t clean titanium shavings out completely?

 

 

Interesting, can you take some measurements of the chamber sizes in the comp. It would be interesting to compare with all the many versions I have designed myself for my CZs.

 

Also are the comp chambers angled or are they perpendicular to the bore?

[Superkaratemonkeyfighter]

Looks like you got that to fit perfect. 

There’s so much that goes into a comp it’s nice to see people trying different cuts. Maybe there will be more options in the future. 
it’s one of the only down falls of the checkmate. 
what mount is that for the SRO ?

[-JCN-]

17 hours ago, Superkaratemonkeyfighter said:

Looks like you got that to fit perfect. 

There’s so much that goes into a comp it’s nice to see people trying different cuts. Maybe there will be more options in the future. 
it’s one of the only down falls of the checkmate. 
what mount is that for the SRO ?

IPSC Alex. I picked it because I like getting my support thumb as close to the frame as possible and by being a double sided mount each strut side can be thinner. 
 

Informational thread on what I went through drilling and tapping was here. 
 

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?49776-Advice-on-drilling-and-tapping-frames-for-optic-mounts

 

It was pretty easy. Punch, tap oil, carbide 2.5 and 3.3mm bits and the tap. 
 

[ringram]

Do you guys run any anti-seize on the comp threads. Mine was an arse to remove after about 2500 rounds... when the barrel lug broke on an A series czechmate.

 

I put the new barrel in with some anti-seize.. but just interested in what works best.. (Hoping its not to remove and clean the threads every 1000 rounds!!)

[Ludde]

1 hour ago, ringram said:

Do you guys run any anti-seize on the comp threads. Mine was an arse to remove after about 2500 rounds... when the barrel lug broke on an A series czechmate.

 

I put the new barrel in with some anti-seize.. but just interested in what works best.. (Hoping its not to remove and clean the threads every 1000 rounds!!)

 

Usually I just put some oil on the threads before I assemble everything after a thorough cleaning.

[yigal]

On 11/14/2021 at 12:28 PM, -JCN- said:

IPSC Alex. I picked it because I like getting my support thumb as close to the frame as possible and by being a double sided mount each strut side can be thinner. 
 

Informational thread on what I went through drilling and tapping was here. 
 

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?49776-Advice-on-drilling-and-tapping-frames-for-optic-mounts

 

It was pretty easy. Punch, tap oil, carbide 2.5 and 3.3mm bits and the tap. 
 

You have hurt the name  of the Czech Republic 

[ringram]

6 hours ago, Ludde said:

 

Usually I just put some oil on the threads before I assemble everything after a thorough cleaning.

 

Hmm, thats what I did and it was a bad idea. Mr Google says oil will carbonize and seize... I did a JFGI and anti seize is usually good for 700F temps etc some more, so its the right stuff. I just used what I had lying around.. Will take the comp off my spare gun and coat it before its too late too. I wont take the comp off until the barrel breaks, so Im hoping thats never But when never comes Id like it to come off..!

[-JCN-]

22 hours ago, ringram said:

 

Hmm, thats what I did and it was a bad idea. Mr Google says oil will carbonize and seize... I did a JFGI and anti seize is usually good for 700F temps etc some more, so its the right stuff. I just used what I had lying around.. Will take the comp off my spare gun and coat it before its too late too. I wont take the comp off until the barrel breaks, so Im hoping thats never But when never comes Id like it to come off..!

One of the used Czechmates i bought was a very early model and I don’t think the guy ever cleaned it. Ever. That was the only comp that was difficult to get off out of the three I purchased. I used WD-40, a vise and an adjustable crescent wrench. 
 

I didn’t do anything special with the new installs, just a little oil. But I have the silver anti-seize handy that I use for car brake pistons and bolts. I also have moly engine assembly lube that’s my go to for hot things. 
 

 

[regor]

On 11/10/2021 at 2:42 PM, -JCN- said:

About 1mm. So not much. No more than 2mm.

 

If people were concerned about either the factory function or factory slide, then probably the best option is to try and grind the compensator.

 

I just didn't have as much faith with my grinding skills on a complex surface without damaging the bushing cone on the titanium comp. It's very thin.

 

I measured mine to need about 0.012", 0.3mm of material removed. I'm also not very confident that I can remove that from the compensator face without damaging the cone so I think I'll copy your method of grinding the slide face. I don't think it will make any substantial visual difference with the factory comp. 

[-JCN-]

14 hours ago, regor said:

 

I measured mine to need about 0.012", 0.3mm of material removed. I'm also not very confident that I can remove that from the compensator face without damaging the cone so I think I'll copy your method of grinding the slide face. I don't think it will make any substantial visual difference with the factory comp. 

 

I love it so much that I’m never going back to the factory comp if that helps ease the pain. It’s much easier to time and visually track now. 

[MuayThaiJJ]

I can't seem to find the thread but I recall seeing someone here making comps that matches the TSO profile. Does anyone know? thanks

[regor]

I just got my backup’s upper back from CZ custom with two 3/16” popples so I took it out to the range with the Sebo titanium comp and some brass accessories for some side-by-side slo-mo analysis. Only thing I didn’t try out was Sebo comp + popples since the comp needs to have a hole drilled through it and I didn’t want to commit to that prior to testing. 

 

[Dec]

Hello

 

Just got my Shadow 2 from gun smith with transformation as IPSC Open division (sorry no pictures at the moment). I was wondering if anybody have tried these magazine base pads: https://www.tonisystem.it/en/5415/8-9-rounds-base-pad-for-cz-shadow/

 

Anyway, I got few of those and encountered problem. If fully loaded (26rnd) the spring gets stuck and follower won't  rise. Using orginal magazine frames from Mecgar mags that came with gun. Any ideas how to fix/resolve this? Already contacted manufacturer, but no reply. Also if recommendation for alternative base pads?

[regor]

5 hours ago, Dec said:

I was wondering if anybody have tried these magazine base pads: https://www.tonisystem.it/en/5415/8-9-rounds-base-pad-for-cz-shadow/

 

Anyway, I got few of those and encountered problem. If fully loaded (26rnd) the spring gets stuck and follower won't  rise. Using orginal magazine frames from Mecgar mags that came with gun. Any ideas how to fix/resolve this? Already contacted manufacturer, but no reply. Also if recommendation for alternative base pads?

 

Take the springs and followers out and put the base pads back on. Look into the magazine with a flashlight and look for any overlap at the magazine body/extension transition. You can also run a pick along the inside and feel for any snagging points. If there is only minor overlap you can probable just add some beveling on the inside of the mag/extension to smooth the transition, but if it's major overlap then you should just send it back to the manufacturer. 

[Ludde]

This seasons version of the Shadow 2.

 

Titanium compensator with long steel cone.

Slide further shortened and lightened (~250gram).

20lbs main 9 lbs recoil spring, oem firing pin retaining plate.

Out of all the versions I've made this is the softest and flattest thus far.

 

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by Ludde

[MuayThaiJJ]

love it, nice work!