Apex Trigger for Shield... Worth It?

[alien_pickles]

I impulsively bought a 9mm Shield, and I honestly just don't like to shoot it. I can't quite put my finger on what it is that I don't like, but I don't find it enjoyable to shoot and I don't shoot it well. When I practice dry firing, I really feel like the trigger is to blame. Most people seem to recommend replacing the factory trigger with the Apex kit. I'm interested in doing that, but I'm concerned it won't solve my problem. If it does, great, I'll keep the gun. Otherwise, I'll probably want to sell it. I'm concerned, though, that I'm dumping $150 into a relatively cheap gun that I might turn around and sell. Is the Apex trigger likely to increase the selling price by anywhere close to what I'll spend on it? What is the likelihood that it'll actually solve my problem with the gun? Does it make a significant impact on how it feels to shoot?

 

Selling the Shield, modified or not, will also add to my competition gun budget, so there's that to consider. But.. that's a whole different can of worms

[kmanick]

I had a local gunsmith do the trigger without any Apex parts.

He got mine down to a smooth 4.5 pound pull, nice audible reset.

Once he did the trigger, shooting it was a completely different experience.

His work cost less $$$ than the apex kit, although I have apex "stuff" in my 9L competition M&P

if you have a good local gunsmith to you see what he can do without any 3rd party parts , otherwise the apex kit will do wonders

for it.

[Magsz]

I too was in the same boat many years ago when the 1.0's first came out.  For the life of me I could not shoot the Shield on par with any of my other handguns, even guns similar in size.  Hell, I shot my LCP .380 better than my shield which is an absolute BEAR to shoot.

 

I really do believe it came down to a few things.

 

1.  The stock trigger had a HUGE amount of overtravel.  Without absolutely PERFECT trigger press technique and follow through your accuracy is going to suffer.

 

2.  90% of the pull weight was on the sear break and the break itself was EXTREMELY sharp.  Again, without absolutely PERFECT trigger mechanics, my accuracy suffered.

 

3.  The grip shape is very narrow and VERY round which left very little of the gun to hang onto.  Tracking my sights was extremely difficult.

 

My solutions were as follows:

 

1.  I added an Apex trigger kit which solved the over travel issue and brought the sear break weight down to a little over four pounds.  WAY easier to shoot now.

 

2.  Number one solved number 2 as the apex sear while very crisp adds the slightest bit of roll to the trigger.

 

3.  Talon grips grip tape added a little bit of extra girth to the grip.

 

Ultimately I did end up selling the gun as i could never really warm up to it.  If you have no defined need for the pistol then I would say sell it as its too small to be a "fun" gun in my eyes.

 

Also, dont go to a gunsmith to have them work on the sear.  You're cutting through surface hardening and leaving softer metal exposed.  The factory sears are case hardened, not through hardened.

 

Good luck bud!

[mpom]

A complete Apex kit properly installed and adjusted (curved part that contacts sear) makes the Shield significantly easier and more enjoyable to shoot. If its the 2.0, there is no need for Talon grips as its pretty damn grippy.

 

Mark

[MemphisMechanic]

On 7/15/2018 at 11:29 AM, alien_pickles said:

 I can't quite put my finger on what it is that I don't like, but I don't find it enjoyable to shoot and I don't shoot it well. 

 

As a guy who carried a 9mm Shield for 4 years, may I make a suggestion? Go find a local range that rents guns, and shoot a Walther PPS M2.

 

Ergonomics play a larger factor in shootability than we want to believe; even with a heavier trigger the Walther is so much more confidence inspiring than my Shield (even stippled and APEX’d down to 5.0 lbs) ever was.

 

Edited July 17, 2018 by MemphisMechanic

[DCSigCZ]

Allen, I have some ideas for you to consider, based upon experience as both a Shield 1.0 and M2.0 owner and a certified M&P Armorer.  To answer as accurately as possible, first I need to know if yours is a 1.0 or a M2.0. Let me know and then I will submit my thoughts. 

[stick]

I have a Apex FSS in my M&P with a flat faced trigger.  I absolutely love it.  Now on to your question.  

First if you hate the gun, why drop any money into it?  Ergonomics and feel might not be right for you.  Second, You will not recoup the price of the trigger in the selling price.  Sell the gun and put the time, money and effort into something you want.

Try before you buy!  Don't buy guns on impulse.  It usually ends up costing you more money because you sell it at a loss to get rid of it.

[alien_pickles]

Thanks everyone!

 

I have really small hands, so I'm not sure it's a grip issue, though, honestly, if I were to sell it, I wouldn't replace it with another compact. I'd just buy something else full-sized (I don't carry, so I don't really have much need for it).

 

It's a 1.0. I have enough attachment to it that I'll probably try to upgrade it before committing to selling it. I hate to just get rid of it if it could be better.

[Avedis]

Worth it

 

https://www.twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/products/m-p-shield-duty-carry-action-enhancement-trigger-kit

[kmanick]

I love my shield and actually shoot it very well now that the trigger doesn't completely stink

pachmyr sleeve helps a lot too (I have pretty large hands)

try the Springfield xds 3.3 I have a couple of friends who dropped their shields and went with those.

I have holsters, 10 round MagGuts extensions , mag holsters etc.

I have too much invested to even think about switching to another EDC.

 

Edited July 18, 2018 by kmanick

[DCSigCZ]

Allen, thank you for noting that you have a 1.0. The Apex parts do make a noticeable difference. Where I live, people do not recoup the value of what it cost to put into the pistol when they sell it. One alternative is to have a M&P Armorer or pistolsmith polish the proper internal parts and then simply install the trigger shoe alone. I am an armorer foe M&Ps, including the Shield, and polished mine. Smoothing the bore of the hole which the striker/firing pin safety plunger slides in and the safety plunger itself made the greatest difference in my Shield. I have an Apex trigger shoe to install, but my action is now so good that my urgency to install it has dropped dramatically.  Try smoothing the action, without touching the sear or firing pin, and see how you like the Shield then. Take it in steps. If you still want a little more, then install the trigger shoe alone. You will spend less following this method. Talon grip tape is also a great addition and it is not expensive. 

Shoot safe and shoot often, D

Edited July 20, 2018 by DCSigCZ

[Nalle2491]

It’s worth every penny..

[alien_pickles]

I broke down and just went for it. Installed the whole duty/carry kit.

 

It made such a huge difference! It still has good weight to it (which I'd want if I ever decided to carry it), but it's so much smoother and cleaner! It has definitely made me decide to keep it. Especially since it looks cool too

[DCSigCZ]

Allen, happy to hear that you are happy with your pistol. You mention a "huge difference".  Describe what you feel as the differences.  For me it was the elimination of the "crunch" as the firing pin/striker safety block plunger was pushed up.

[paperchasin]

After shooting the Shield out of the box, the next thing I did was swap out the trigger and it was night and day.

[Adamj]

Putting in the Apex kit was a huge improvement in my Shield. It was a much cleaner break and positive reset as opposed to the crunchy gravely stock trigger. It didn't help me shoot it better but might have for someone with better fundamentals.