B_RAD Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 5 hours ago, CZ85Combat said: You have to seat them deep .006 -.008 or you get light strikes. I've measured several. Looks like .005" is the deepest. Most are about .003". I'll adjust the 1050 a little more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJGary Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 S&B run better than fed in my press and have shot many thousands with no problems . TS40 no extended firing pin with 15lb hammer spring, if I look at the primer it looks like lite strikes but goes bang every time. It is a seating issue as already stated , I flatten mine so please leave these primers to me and you can have the more expensive ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superluckycat Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 I've shot probably 5000 S&B primers through my Glock with a 5.5# striker spring and it's set everyone of them off as long as they are seated correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I think SB changed in the past 18 months. I used snit pots of them and never had a problem in 20-30k. Last order was such a pile of steaming.....stuff that I have 9500 sitting in the back of the cabinet. (Primer time out). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmagee67 Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 In my opinion most light strikes are a product of primer seating. I've gotten 100% reliability on my CZs with Winchester primers by seating them revolver style. If you don't know what revolver stype is visit TK Customs and look under action tuning. They have a link to a photo of a properly seated primer. The top of the primer is slighly crushed by the primer seating punch. The DA on 2 of my CZs are right at 4 lbs with a SA of right at 2 lbs. Seating primers this way I get 95+% DA and 99% SA with CCI. In my opinion primer sensitivity from most to least is; Federal, Winchester, Remington, CCI, and..................................................Tule/Wolf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 I use Tula SRPs in 9mm, small primer .45s and .223/5.56 and have never had one fail to ignite the powder. I think it is a matter of seating each and every primer completely to the bottom. That is why I hand prime everything. I usually stay about a 4 gallon bucket ahead of useage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 (edited) I don't know if I buy he seating depth thing. At least not to the point of measuring to see if they're .008" below flush. Seems like there's a lot of folks that do so maybe I'm just flat out wrong? Shot my G34 (w/reduced striker spring) again this weekend and they all went pop. Never had had a single issue with the thousands of S&B primers with the G34. As as soon as I start shooting CZ's with trigger work I start having issues. In fact, I kept adjusting for more depth on the 1050 and the problem still continued. Yes my CZ has a extended FP and reduced spring. Anywyas, I believe it to be specific to the gun and springs/primer softness. Not the primer seating depth. I've reloaded around 20K (guesstimate)reloads in my life (not a lot compared to some folks, I know) and I've never measured. Just made sure they were below flush. I've never had any issues until the CZ. Or at least not more than one or two. Edited October 24, 2016 by B_RAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDescribe Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Brad, what do you do with the ones that fail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 3 minutes ago, IDescribe said: Brad, what do you do with the ones that fail? I look at them then try them again. They all go off the second time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDescribe Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Excellent. That was going to be my next question. When a light strike goes off on the second shot, that indicates that the primer was not fully seated. The first strike seats it the last little bit. The second strike fires it. I do not use a 1050, so I can't advise you on adjusting the priming device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 53 minutes ago, IDescribe said: Excellent. That was going to be my next question. When a light strike goes off on the second shot, that indicates that the primer was not fully seated. The first strike seats it the last little bit. The second strike fires it. I do not use a 1050, so I can't advise you on adjusting the priming device. I can see how if they go off the second time that would make sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt1911 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 S&B primers are much much harder than Federal's. I have had light strikes, but that's a fixable issue in just about any gun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 I went to a 8.5# hammer spring so I definitely have to switch to federals. CGW's says you need federals when running the 11.5# too. I still don't think it's a seating issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtturn Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 I still don't think it's a seating issue. You'd still be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 1 hour ago, wtturn said: You'd still be wrong. Funny how the 300 I've loaded with federals go off with a lighter hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 50 minutes ago, B_RAD said: Funny how the 300 I've loaded with federals go off with a lighter hammer spring. Feds go off from butterfly farts. SB and others need every bit of help to fire. Fully seated and struck firmly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 1 hour ago, johnbu said: Feds go off from butterfly farts. SB and others need every bit of help to fire. Fully seated and struck firmly. Ha ha. Well, I'm not trying to pretend I'm the end all be all when it comes to primer seating. So, I'll see what giving the seating adjustment screw another partial turn does. It'd be helpful if someone with a 1050 would chime in. Not sure how much to turn? I guess I could try it with one primer in the tube and obviously no powered in the case. If it sets it off, it'll just be loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Go an eight or sixth of a turn at a time. you'll start smearing primers before you kaboom One Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtturn Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, B_RAD said: It'd be helpful if someone with a 1050 would chime in. Not sure how much to turn? I guess I could try it with one primer in the tube and obviously no powered in the case. If it sets it off, it'll just be loud. Well I've already posted once, buuuuttt.... Like has been said, you need to crank it down until the primer seater rod leaves an indention in the primer. It won't hurt anything and ensures you are fully bottoming out the primers in the primer pocket. You're not going to set one off, it's basically impossible. Just go 1/4 turn at a time until you see the indention. Edited November 6, 2016 by wtturn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, wtturn said: Well I've already posted once, buuuuttt.... Like has been said, you need to crank it down until the primer seater rod leaves an indention in the primer. It won't hurt anything and ensures you are fully bottoming out the primers in the primer pocket. You're not going to set one off, it's basically impossible. Just go 1/4 turn at a time until you see the indention. Thanks! i must have missed it earlier. Edited November 6, 2016 by B_RAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin_cincy Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 I had found a discussion about primers that mentioned the size of the Primer box is dictated by transportation rules by the government. Evidently there is some sort of drop test that makes them safe to transport. I saw a video of an old box of primers in a cardboard box with wooden bars/sticks between rows of ten primers. Now they all ship in an individual pocket and the package is larger. To avoid impact detonation of a box larger packaging components are required if the primers are more sensitive. So this might be a way to judge sensitivity of the primers on shelves at stores where you can see the packaging for a 1,000 next to each other. Now the manufacturers lawyers may have driven the engineering in a company to make larger than needed and skew the 'box' size method. But, the bean counters and engineers do not want to waste money on packaging if is not required. I am guessing this will drive the size of the package to a greater extent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmcfarland Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 10k and counting without hardly any issues. Found bad seating on a few that didn't go off the first time but did when I ran them through again. I like them and wish I could find some more to pick up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fltbed Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 In my testing, I would put them at the same hardness level as CCI. In my Limited gun and my single stack's, with C&S hammers & 17 lb mainsprings, I average 20% failure to fire. (or about the same as using CCI's) Sometimes the S&B primers light off on the second strike, sometimes not. The guns run fine with Federal or Winchester primers. In my production M&P 9L, (Apex sear, springs & barrel) M&P Shield, (factory striker spring) and my 9mm AR, they run flawless. In chrono testing my 9L, I recorded the tightest extreme spreads and lowest standard deviations with the S&B primers over Federal or Winchester. Don't know what to make of that. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanatos903 Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 22 hours ago, Tmcfarland said: 10k and counting without hardly any issues. Found bad seating on a few that didn't go off the first time but did when I ran them through again. I like them and wish I could find some more to pick up I'm with you. I've had one failure to fire in about the same number of rounds. Even with pretty sloppy seating sometimes, in my open Glock they run perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbran267 Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I'm about 1k in to the s&b, loaded on a 550 and shot through a g34 with zev lightweight striker and spring. Been 100% so far so I got 5k more from Cabelas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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