Tecloader Shotgun Speedloader

[Wormie]

Are there any websites that sell tecloaders for shotguns? On MidwayUSA they seem to be discontinued. I know Arredondo sells some aluminum ones but they're a little pricey, so I've been looking for the Armstec Tecloaders and I can't seem to find them anywhere.

Thanks!

[Megamind]

Last I herd that don't make them anymore . Witch sucks in my opinion they are the best sticks for open . Try looking for some used ones .

[ziebart]

I bought mine from Brownells, but it was a couple years ago. Last couple matches I shot in open I just quad loaded my tac ops gun. I find it almost as fast and most matches have gone to very little SG loading. If I practiced sticks more I am sure the speed difference would show up, but I never saw it consistently.

[Mig]

Spoke with the company (Armstec) that makes them and they have put production on "hold" as the business is being sold to another firm so future production is questionable at this point.

I've been lobbing lnvictus Practical to take over production but he doesn't feel it would be economically feasible.

Unless something comes along the tube-fed Open shotgun is going the the way of the dodo-bird.

[BallisticianX]

I just spoke to Armstec, or a.k.a. NY Police Supply. They informed me that they discontinued making the tecloaders for good. He also mentioned he is looking to sell all the tooling and equipment related to their manufacture. It is all in storage and idle. I was lucky enough to get the last 6 tecloaders he scrounged up from storage...its Arredondo tubes from here on out. FYI, if you get the Arredondo tubes, stick with the 4 rounders, the 6's are to long to control the end for quick alignment....a pain in the ass compared to the 4's!

As far as the tube load shotgun going the way of the dodo bird, perhaps to some degree. But the other options for Open division are the Saiga...of which is no longer being imported and mag insertion is a joke with the bolt closed. Not to mention that Russian manufacturing excellence makes for an expensive "tweaking" project as its a surprise what is deficient with every one. Then you have the AR variants in 12 ga...the little I've heard of them has not been to encouraging as they have issues based on the reviews Ive come across. But yet Arredondo still makes and sells the speed chutes and their own tubes for quite a few models. Also don't forget the Dodo bird flies to Blue states like mine, (The Communist Facist Dictatorship of New York, Furor Cuomo residing) where we aren't permitted to have all the available options thanks to restrictions set forth by Libtards. I guess We shall see... 

[ziebart]

Open tube guns will never go completly away.  There are some matches that are putting less shotgun in so it is not a huge disadvatage as the tube gun does not need to load if they start with 15.  Empty gun starts will always be problematic, along with high round count stages with little movement.

[Mig]

BallisticianX - That's funny he told you the same thing he told me two years ago: "You got the last of them from storage"

Still pushing IP to take over the Tecloader production but its a long shot and tried the Arredondo tubes and their performance was less than satisfactory.

Regardless, the Open tube-fed shotgun days are numbered.

[BallisticianX]

As of right now, open class will be hindered with limited models of magazine fed shotguns. Or just twin or quad load the tube fed guns...seems the only options to go with if the tecloader style will in fact die. With mag fed guns you have limited options; Saiga's are through the roof since the importation ceased and hard to find...no way I would pay the asking price as of late for such a problem child to rework. The Cheap Baikal (or whatever the Turkish company is) AR-12 is a nightmare for reliability as it is finicky. The only chance of a good mag fed gun might be the US made Std. Mfg. SKO AR pattern shotgun at $1k still awaiting release. Not a good sign if its announced at SHOT and not yet ready for production almost 9 months later though. As of todays market, If I was going to spend a grand just on the shotgun alone, I would feel more comfortable with a Beretta 1301 with a speed chute setup as I know it will run with only minor modifications.  

[BallisticianX]

It would be nice to see a company retrofit a magwell into a traditional semi-auto shotgun receiver to accept detachable magazines. Would be a simple solution and  would bypass most of the senseless gun laws in states like mine as it would be a standard non-pistol grip style stock..

[RiggerJJ]

Wow, a lot of misinformation being spread around here...

The Turkish 1919 and more recent variants are actually doing very well in the 3 gun world, all in all I see about 1/2 of the open shotguns are Turkish or Russian...

There are several companies, some of whom are here in the vendors tent that sell custom mag fed guns that work! I have one of the older 1919s that is still ticking very well with few if any malfs during competition. Check around, pm people that can steer you in the desired direction.

jj

Edited August 17, 2016 by RiggerJJ

[TRUBL]

Agreed JJ.......There are LOTS of options for shooting Open.

Guys will spend $1500 to $3000 or more.......to be competitive in open and bauk at a $60 stick?

Few years back at a former company I worked for......I talked with Armstec about purchasing the molds and remaining stock. I figured that back then.....before the box mag shotty's......it would take about 5 to 8 years (maybe) to recoup the thousands of dollars they wanted....and I mean break even, not profit. It was a low 6 digit number (or higher 5 digit?? been that long ago) at the time.....this was soon after their patent ran out. I suspect that the cost may have gone down by now, but it is still going to be a long road to a small house. If memory serves me right there were 2 separate molds for the tubes (long tang, short tang) and one for the handle...at the time, they would not separate the molds for purchase ( maybe now they would???)  Once you sold the inventory......you'd have to go to a molding place that was set up to run those molds.....or modify them so they could be run (more $$). It just didn't seem like a good option. 

For the money......buy Ralphs......they work.

[Mig]

Trubl - What is the Armstec patent for?

[TRUBL]

14 minutes ago, Mig said:

Trubl - What is the Armstec patent for?

armstec patent it has lapsed, which is why ralph is making tubes now

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

On 6/24/2016 at 10:06 PM, Wormie said:

Are there any websites that sell tecloaders for shotguns? On MidwayUSA they seem to be discontinued. I know Arredondo sells some aluminum ones but they're a little pricey, so I've been looking for the Armstec Tecloaders and I can't seem to find them anywhere.

Thanks!

If you still are looking send me an email.  Tried to send a PM but it would not go through.

TY43215 (AT) Comcast.net

[BallisticianX]

13 hours ago, RiggerJJ said:

Wow, a lot of misinformation being spread around here...

The Turkish 1919 and more recent variants are actually doing very well in the 3 gun world, all in all I see about 1/2 of the open shotguns are Turkish or Russian...

There are several companies, some of whom are here in the vendors tent that sell custom mag fed guns that work! I have one of the older 1919s that is still ticking very well with few if any malfs during competition. Check around, pm people that can steer you in the desired direction.

jj

I myself have not seen any of the AR variant shotguns at local matches up here. Thats in part to the NY SAFE Act whereas a pistol grip semi-auto magazine fed gun is illegal. So I am going on what I read and some feedback in a few conversations. I also havent seen them on any televised 3 gun events. A few youtube videos of guys shooting the Turkish AR variant didnt look promising. SO wasnt sure if they were worth it. It is good to hear they are working and gaining traction. I would have bought one of the SKO 12's but cant (Thanks Cuomo). 

[BallisticianX]

10 hours ago, TRUBL said:

Agreed JJ.......There are LOTS of options for shooting Open.

Guys will spend $1500 to $3000 or more.......to be competitive in open and bauk at a $60 stick?

Few years back at a former company I worked for......I talked with Armstec about purchasing the molds and remaining stock. I figured that back then.....before the box mag shotty's......it would take about 5 to 8 years (maybe) to recoup the thousands of dollars they wanted....and I mean break even, not profit. It was a low 6 digit number (or higher 5 digit?? been that long ago) at the time.....this was soon after their patent ran out. I suspect that the cost may have gone down by now, but it is still going to be a long road to a small house. If memory serves me right there were 2 separate molds for the tubes (long tang, short tang) and one for the handle...at the time, they would not separate the molds for purchase ( maybe now they would???)  Once you sold the inventory......you'd have to go to a molding place that was set up to run those molds.....or modify them so they could be run (more $$). It just didn't seem like a good option. 

For the money......buy Ralphs......they work.

Ok, Details on Ralph and his speedloaders Please? Wasnt aware of another option out there besides Arredondo. I have some Arredondo tubes but they dont hold shells in the tubes well even with the aggressive detent blocks. The swift movement up while drawing them is enough to lose a shell. When you sprint the force of planting your foot will also dislodge one. I modified my Safariland holder with standoffs in the pockets to rest against the face of the shell in order to eliminate the dead space between the last shell and the tang. Anyway I am curious about Ralphs....let me know. 

[ChuckS]

4 hours ago, BallisticianX said:

Ok, Details on Ralph and his speedloaders Please? Wasnt aware of another option out there besides Arredondo. I have some Arredondo tubes but they dont hold shells in the tubes well even with the aggressive detent blocks. The swift movement up while drawing them is enough to lose a shell. When you sprint the force of planting your foot will also dislodge one. I modified my Safariland holder with standoffs in the pockets to rest against the face of the shell in order to eliminate the dead space between the last shell and the tang. Anyway I am curious about Ralphs....let me know. 

Ralph, as in Ralph Arredondo

 

eta: and Ralph is a 3 gun shooter and uses his own stuff. Call him about your issues...

Edited August 18, 2016 by ChuckS

[BallisticianX]

Oh, Didnt know his first name. 

[BBoyd]

speed shooters Intl usually carries them and the arrendondo type. I started using the tecloadera late last year and really like them.

[BallisticianX]

I like the ArmsTec loaders a lot better than the Arredondo. They are smoother to load, they also hold each shell in the column tight with tension from the plastic tube being undersized a touch, and because of the latter they do not rattle like a loose bag of change when you walk or run like the Arredondo. That Arredondo rattle also causes the the first shell in line to fall past the retention blocks and fly out when pulling them out to reload. This is not a problem with the ArmsTec.  

[BD Williamson]

Give Ralph a call as he has new retention parts for his tubes that work much better than the originals.

 

[BoyGlock]

Posted this in Shotgun Technical. Thought here is the right to post it in. 

My arredondo tubes wont feed my Winchester SX3. The shell would stop under the lifter at the middle and at the mouth of the tube mag. Its as if the push direction on the handle is not correct that no matter how hard I push the shells wont come forward after the lead shell stops under the lifter. I make sure that the tube is flat on the chute for the right angle. Whats the fix, is it technique or hardware issue? 

 

[BallisticianX]

50 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:

Posted this in Shotgun Technical. Thought here is the right to post it in. 

My arredondo tubes wont feed my Winchester SX3. The shell would stop under the lifter at the middle and at the mouth of the tube mag. Its as if the push direction on the handle is not correct that no matter how hard I push the shells wont come forward after the lead shell stops under the lifter. I make sure that the tube is flat on the chute for the right angle. Whats the fix, is it technique or hardware issue? 

 

Im not exactly sure what positions are your problem so Ill explain what I found with problems I experienced for all areas.

For stoppages at the halfway point on the lifter (where shell end doesn't make it to the mag tube entry): Is the front edge of the shell hitting the the edge of the elongated slot cut into the lifter? My Beretta 1301 had that happen. The radius of the shell could just drop into the elongated slot and the crimp edge could hook on the edge of that slot cut. The cure for that is to file the front edge of the slot in and create a angled ramp. Also make sure to use shells with a taper on the crimp. (I found Federal Shells have a healthy taper leading into the crimp shoulder, even the Federal bargain packs at Walmart have it.)

The stoppage at the mouth of the tube mag entry: If its hitting the upper edge of the mag tube entry (upper meaning the 12 o'clock position closest to the bolt with gun held upright); With a factory unmodified lifter it could be the lifter pushes in far enough before it stops exposing the upper edge of the tune entry. If that upper edge is not well chamfered or ramped for the shell to slide over up and over that will stop it dead. The easiest cure is welding the end of the lifter. That's the common practice for this reason and mitigating thumb pinch if you twin or quad load as well. By extending the lifter slightly and squaring off the lifter end you get the lifter to stop where it acts as the ramp for the upper mage tube area as it can no longer push in so far to expose the upper edge of the action leading to the tube. Its less headache than trying to cut and smooth the actions edge to mage tube area and much more reliable.

If its hitting the lower mag tube entry edge (6 o'clock position with gun held upright): It could be either the lifter is not getting depressed enough because of the loader tube tongue is short or your angle is to light. Sometimes holding the loader tube parallel to the chute angle is not the best approach. For this try increasing the angle of the loader when pushing the shells in. Meaning leave a gap between the tube and the chute at the rear when the front is hooked. See if that improves it. The other possibility is the 6 o'clock area of the action leading into the tube are is to square and needs to be rounded or modified for clearance. My 1301 needed to be cut back as the shell would hook that area. So I hope this helps to give you direction. 

[TRUBL]

You could try the TACCOM load assist.......it will help bridge the gap.

Years ago, I have FNH and put a piece of metal on the lefter from that metal banding strap.....worked like a charm. The load assist does the same thing

 

 

[BoyGlock]

Thanks guys!

BallisticianX, I believe its the first two issues you mentioned above. 

TRUBL, your load assist is already on d way even before this. I think it will solve both issues Ballistician posted above. 1. The load assist will make a flat and smoother surface where the leading edge of shell could slide. 2. It will add a bit of material to the underside of the lifter so that I hope it will position the shell a bit lower and avoid contact the 12 oclock edge of the mag tube mouth. Still I will round off that edge as Ballistician advised. 

I will keep you updated once Im back.