Shmella Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Forgive my incorrect terminology here but I will attempt to describe the issue I am having. The pin that releases the cylinder even when the cylinder release is pushed all the way in does not sit flush so the cylinder is a little rough to pop out. Is there an adjustment I can make or remove material from a certain area to allow the pin to sit flush? Ive only taken the side plate off and havent attempted to take much apart to figure it out but was hoping this is an easy fix?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 What brand gun? Is the cylinder release stock or an aftermarket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glockwerkes Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 If you are talking about a S&W: The pin you are referring to is the tip of the bolt. The cylinder release has an oval boss/protrusion that rides in the slot on the left side of the frame. I've had to gently remove some material from the front of the boss on several Hogue extended releases. This will allow the tip of the bolt to be flush with the recoil shield. Easy check, just remove the cylinder release and note the difference. The bolt (the tip) should be flush with the recoil shield. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 If you are talking about the pin at the front of the ejector rod, the correct fix is to file the ejector rod flush with the pin. It's usually just 2-3 file strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 You could have a cracked/broken Cylinder Latch (Bolt). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 As per Glockwerks, the first place to check, IMO, is the latch. When the cylinder's open, the front of the latch should just touch the frame. If it touches the latch prematurely, it can prevent the face of the bolt from going far enough forward to sit flush with the face of the recoil shield. Try removing the latch, then. If the bolt now sits flush, you could use a stone to take off a few thousands off the front of the latch boss or the latch face. Also, as PatJones suggests, also check the end of the ejector rod: When the inner rod is depressed flat against the ejector star (I use a brass case to do this), the other end of the inner rod ought to be flush with (or even slightly proud of) the outer rod. If it sits below the outer rod, you could use a stone to trim back the outer rod a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 S&W 929 Sorry should have stated that. Even with the release button off there is no change and it still doesn't sit flush. I'll try to attach a picture to show how recessed it is. Should it be completely flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) If you are talking about a S&W: The pin you are referring to is the tip of the bolt. The cylinder release has an oval boss/protrusion that rides in the slot on the left side of the frame. I've had to gently remove some material from the front of the boss on several Hogue extended releases. This will allow the tip of the bolt to be flush with the recoil shield. Easy check, just remove the cylinder release and note the difference. The bolt (the tip) should be flush with the recoil shield. Good luck. Ok so it sounds like it should be flush. It isn't flush with the release off. Edited March 10, 2016 by Shmella Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eisenhow Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 If it's not flush without the cylinder release removed you've got a problem with the gun. If it is ok without the release you need to fine tune the cylinder release: ask 10mmDave he made that release. I had to trim both of mine a little with a razor blade when I got them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 I tried trimming the release thinking that was the problem as Dave pointed that out to me. That was when I noticed it still wasn't flush even without the release attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Does the bolt touch the frame opening in front? It not, you could lengthen the slot a bit to allow better protrusion. That would be an easy fix. You would have to remove side plate and internals though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Whyte Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 If everything works with the original release, I would think the problem is with the aftermarket release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 It still works fine maybe I'm just being a little picky when I say its rough to open. There is a little resistance to pop the cylinder out but not terribly hard to do. Even with the stock release there is no change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) It still works fine maybe I'm just being a little picky when I say its rough to open. There is a little resistance to pop the cylinder out but not terribly hard to do. Even with the stock release there is no change. Is it a PC gun with the ball detent lock up in the front of the yoke / barrel? Alot of times the ball detent sits a bit too deep in the groove and it's difficult to pop out. A bit of grinding / polishing on the contact area will ease the opening. Doesn't take too much. Edited March 10, 2016 by alecmc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 If the bolt isn't flush with the recoil shield when the release is pushed fully forward you will wear the hole egg shaped from forcing it open. A new bolt is about $20. I have been able to file some material off the front of the bolt where it contacts the frame to allow it to protrude a little further and be flush with the recoil shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) Nice looking cylinder release As others have mentioned, if you take the release off and the bolt still doesn't sit flush with the recoil shield then either your bolt is too short or there could be some dirt and crud inside the gun limiting the travel of the bolt. I recently worked on a friends gun and noticed his bolt was a tad under flush of the recoil shield, this gun did have crud between the bolts face and the back of the recoil shield and once cleaned out it did bring the bolt out a little more but not enough to make it flush. I do think these new plunger detent's on the yoke mask a hard opening gun which most of the time can be traced to a below flush bolt pin. And IMNSHO, if you do start to wear an egg shaped hole in the frame your problems are only going to get worse from there. If you have any problems with the cylinder release let me know. And a ps here, the amount that the pic shows of the bolt not being flush would concern me a lot, looks like your in my area so if I can help let me know. (I'm not sure who this is since inter-web names leave me clueless ) Edited March 10, 2016 by 10mmdave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 It still works fine maybe I'm just being a little picky when I say its rough to open. There is a little resistance to pop the cylinder out but not terribly hard to do. Even with the stock release there is no change. Is it a PC gun with the ball detent lock up in the front of the yoke / barrel? Alot of times the ball detent sits a bit too deep in the groove and it's difficult to pop out. A bit of grinding / polishing on the contact area will ease the opening. Doesn't take too much. eh...be careful there. I may be off base, but a correctly-fitted ball detent will make the cylinder a little tougher to open. That's a sign it's actually doing something. The factory ball detents on Smiths I've checked out have been quite good, whereas many ball detents I've seen installed by 'smiths are worthless, as they do little to actually lock the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) It still works fine maybe I'm just being a little picky when I say its rough to open. There is a little resistance to pop the cylinder out but not terribly hard to do. Even with the stock release there is no change. Is it a PC gun with the ball detent lock up in the front of the yoke / barrel? Alot of times the ball detent sits a bit too deep in the groove and it's difficult to pop out. A bit of grinding / polishing on the contact area will ease the opening. Doesn't take too much. eh...be careful there. I may be off base, but a correctly-fitted ball detent will make the cylinder a little tougher to open. That's a sign it's actually doing something. The factory ball detents on Smiths I've checked out have been quite good, whereas many ball detents I've seen installed by 'smiths are worthless, as they do little to actually lock the cylinder. Agreed, there should be a some resistance on opening from the yoke lockup system whether it's the new S&W ball plunger type or a gunsmith installed ball type in the top of the yoke. I've seen a bunch of the newer Smiths be very hard to open and can usually trace it back to the new ball plunger arrangement. Funny, when polished and adjusted the old spring loaded cone into the extractor rod worked great, just as long as the rod run-out was down to a minimum. Course then again, I have a competition revolver that had the yoke break a few years back, too many speed reloads from knock down steel I figured. Had the yoke replaced by S&W and never have put a yoke lock back in that gun and it still shoots fine Edited March 10, 2016 by 10mmdave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 It still works fine maybe I'm just being a little picky when I say its rough to open. There is a little resistance to pop the cylinder out but not terribly hard to do. Even with the stock release there is no change. Is it a PC gun with the ball detent lock up in the front of the yoke / barrel? Alot of times the ball detent sits a bit too deep in the groove and it's difficult to pop out. A bit of grinding / polishing on the contact area will ease the opening. Doesn't take too much. eh...be careful there. I may be off base, but a correctly-fitted ball detent will make the cylinder a little tougher to open. That's a sign it's actually doing something. The factory ball detents on Smiths I've checked out have been quite good, whereas many ball detents I've seen installed by 'smiths are worthless, as they do little to actually lock the cylinder. Agreed, there should be a some resistance on opening from the yoke lockup system whether it's the new S&W ball plunger type or a gunsmith installed ball type in the top of the yoke. I've seen a bunch of the newer Smiths be very hard to open and can usually trace it back to the new ball plunger arrangement. Funny, when polished and adjusted the old spring loaded cone into the extractor rod worked great, just as long as the rod run-out was down to a minimum. Course then again, I have a competition revolver that had the yoke break a few years back, too many speed reloads from knock down steel I figured. Had the yoke replaced by S&W and never have put a yoke lock back in that gun and it still shoots fine I've got aftermarket ball detents installed on most my guns, extremely easy to open... I'd guess probably around 1 lb of resistance to open. No issues to speak of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Had the yoke replaced by S&W and never have put a yoke lock back in that gun and it still shoots fine I dont even run a yoke lock in my 617 with custom barrel, only lock up is at the bolt.- Again, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Nice looking cylinder release As others have mentioned, if you take the release off and the bolt still doesn't sit flush with the recoil shield then either your bolt is too short or there could be some dirt and crud inside the gun limiting the travel of the bolt. I recently worked on a friends gun and noticed his bolt was a tad under flush of the recoil shield, this gun did have crud between the bolts face and the back of the recoil shield and once cleaned out it did bring the bolt out a little more but not enough to make it flush. I do think these new plunger detent's on the yoke mask a hard opening gun which most of the time can be traced to a below flush bolt pin. And IMNSHO, if you do start to wear an egg shaped hole in the frame your problems are only going to get worse from there. If you have any problems with the cylinder release let me know. And a ps here, the amount that the pic shows of the bolt not being flush would concern me a lot, looks like your in my area so if I can help let me know. (I'm not sure who this is since inter-web names leave me clueless ) Hey Dave, Its Dustin. You saw the gun at a walls of steel match its a 929. You actually noticed it and pointed it out to me and warned me about the potential issue of wearing a notch in the frame. Honesty I wasn't sure if it was normal to feel the slight resistance and didn't really think twice about it till you pointed it out. I filed the front of the release and I thought that would solve the issue but its not your release that is causing it. My plan was to wait till I saw you at a shoot and ask for your opinion on what would cause this because I figured you would know. Im pretty sure dirt isnt the issue because it has done this from the first day I got it and supposedly had under 100 rds fired before I bought it. If I could guess Ive only put about 500 rounds through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 And to comment on the release, I think its a much better release than the hogue especially because of the texture. The Hogue design makes your thumb want to slip up because of the direction of the grooves and Daves is awesome plain and simple.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Now I have had to remove metal from an aftermarket cylinder release, but let me wrap my head around this. It worked with the stock one on it? With the release latch off the side and with the bolt pushed totally forward there is still an fair amount of space where the the bolt can catch on the faceplate? It would seem that you would have to remove some material from the aftermarket release. But that is a best guess. There are two places where you could remove the material from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 That was when I noticed it still wasn't flush even without the release attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now