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Adjustable seating die


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I'm starting to play with OAL on my .308 loads and am looking for suggestions on replacing the Dillon seating die with something that's easier, accurate and repeatable

Anyone?

I use a Redding comp seater on my S1050 for .308. It works well and gives great results (consistent length to ogive, and low runout). I had to cut-down the sliding sleeve so it was flush with the bottom of the die, otherwise the bullet catches it as the shellplate starts to advance. Others have had the same issue, but I'm not sure if it occurs on other press models.

Because of the clearance issue you may find a smaller usable range of seating stem adjustment than when using these dies on a single stage press. I adjusted the die position so the seating stem is at its lowest position for the shortest COAL with the shortest bullet I use (i.e. factory COAL with a 2155), but if I wanted to load a long/heavy VLD with a short jump for a particular rifle it may involve backing the die out, otherwise the longer round would probably still interfere with the die if the adjustment was made using the seating stem alone.

I believe the Forster die requires the same modification; you should be able to find confirmation via search. The Redding is slimmer, which may help if your toolhead is crowded, e.g. with Bullet feeder or powder check etc.

..

Edited by roxfo
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There is really only two to consider, Redding Competition Seating Die, or Forster Micrometer Seating Die, I have both, but use neither on my Dillon, the Redding is easier to read and adjust, the Forster is cheaper and I greatly perfer there lock rings, accuracy/repeatability is the same on both, as is loaded round runout.

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Not sure they even make them for rifle but for $60 less the Redding PRO seater works as well for pistol rounds as the micrometer die did. Midway $30 or so. Very fine thread adjustments but no dial markings, springs etc. If you NEED micrometer then the Redding was awesome.

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I have RCBS, Redding, and Hornaday micro-adjustable seating dies. I like Redding by a long shot.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/200390/redding-competition-seater-die-308-winchester

BTW; I would also get a six pack of Hornaday lock rings. Mid-South is cheaper than Midwayusa

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00005044606/Sure-Loc-Die-Lock-Ring-%286-Count%29-

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I should have stated that I'm loading on a Dillon 650. I see the "Redding Competition Seater Die" on Midway's site for $109.99. Glad it wasn't $110.00 or I would have had to pass on it.

Will this give me clearance problems on the 650?

No
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I set up the redding seater die this weekend and made some .308 with it for my FN SPR. It worked perfectly. Was easily able to change OAL matched to the graduations on the dial. My only issue has been difficulty in zeroing it to a specific setting. I'll keep fiddling with it. If this site allowed me to post pictures I would show you pictures, including some pretty impressive 5 round groups at 200 yards.

Thanks for the advice all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm using a Lee adjustable seating die for 300blk. It didn't start life as a micrometer die. But after scribing a vertical line and several around the circumference of the adjustment knob along with some notches in the top of the die body it sure works like one. All my load data has the die setting and I can just dial it in as needed. Also once you know the length change per turn it's real easy to change seating depth by predictable amounts.

The Lee die unfortunatly needs more work to be usable. The seating plug is way too loose inside the adjuster. I shimmed it with some brass tubing so that it's always concentric. Also, the plastic tips on some bullets will be deformed by bottoming out in the plug. The center of the plug should be drilled deeper on a lathe and the entire cone and transition to the now deeper hole polished.

If I was starting over I would buy a different die. Maybe someone like me who already has one can use this info.

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  • 3 weeks later...

For me the big deal is reproducibility. I write down the settings for each type of bullet and changing bullets is just a 1 minute dial-in. Got the micrometer crimp die now also. Both are Redding. The sleeve of the seater die is modified to work on the 1050.

post-6746-0-18088500-1455059694_thumb.jp

post-6746-0-33798400-1455059710_thumb.jp

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  • 9 months later...
On 2/9/2016 at 6:18 PM, DEP44 said:

For me the big deal is reproducibility. I write down the settings for each type of bullet and changing bullets is just a 1 minute dial-in. Got the micrometer crimp die now also. Both are Redding. The sleeve of the seater die is modified to work on the 1050.

IMG_0450.JPG

IMG_0453.JPG

How exactly did you modify the seater? Dremel? Sorry to dig up an old thread but I am researching a bunch before i buy die's for 308 on a 1050.

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On 1/4/2016 at 3:51 PM, NatureBoy said:

I should have stated that I'm loading on a Dillon 650. I see the "Redding Competition Seater Die" on Midway's site for $109.99. Glad it wasn't $110.00 or I would have had to pass on it.

Will this give me clearance problems on the 650?

I use the Redding for 9mm on my 650, works great.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/9/2016 at 9:17 AM, flyingrhino said:

I'm using the Forster competition mic seating die. I also had Forster make me a custom seating stem for my Lee .312-155-2R that I size to .309 for my Blackout. Works really well.

As good as it gets, right here. I have one for .223/5.56. I use the Redding micrometer dies for 9 mm. 

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