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Can a smith and wesson take a lot of dryfire practice.


JBD

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I switched to revolver recently and I was practicing every night for about an hour. After a couple weeks of this my 629, machined for moon clips, broke so I sent it to the smith and Wesson warranty center here in Canada. The gunsmith there said that the trigger stud broke and that he could not get the gun to lock up properly as the hand and extractor were

too worn. I needed a new cylinder which is not covered under warranty. Then I need to have it machined for moonclips. This is pretty pricey.

Was I just unlucky, do I need to give up on dryfire or is there something that I can do (snap caps whatever) to minimize the risk of damage on my firearm.

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Replacing the hand and extractor are easy enough - you don't have to replace the cylinder because of those. If your cylinder notches are peened, you can still reshape them. There are plenty of descriptions of that process.

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the stud broke because the hand was not timed properly. another thing that will break it is a hammer and trigger that is not timing mashing up poperly and the last thing that will break a stud is pulling the trigger with the side plate off. Tell them to replace the stud and send the whole gun back to you. you will have to file the ratchet your self. way cheaper than what they want. Not a very good gunsmith, especially if it is a S&W gunsmith.

one other thing to all Revo shooters who do break a stud, pull the barrel off and strip it of all the parts. just send the frame into smith as gun parts, you wont have to next day it. also don't ask for them to do the more expensive job, just the basic stud replacement. they will sandblast the inside of the frame and ruin your polishing action job.

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the stud broke because the hand was not timed properly. another thing that will break it is a hammer and trigger that is not timing mashing up poperly and the last thing that will break a stud is pulling the trigger with the side plate off. Tell them to replace the stud and send the whole gun back to you. you will have to file the ratchet your self. way cheaper than what they want. Not a very good gunsmith, especially if it is a S&W gunsmith.

one other thing to all Revo shooters who do break a stud, pull the barrel off and strip it of all the parts. just send the frame into smith as gun parts, you wont have to next day it. also don't ask for them to do the more expensive job, just the basic stud replacement. they will sandblast the inside of the frame and ruin your polishing action job.

A frame is a gun, parts removed or not. Sending it as machine parts is a good way to get in some trouble. And most folks are far more likely to damage the frame trying to remove / reinstall a barrel than they are to help anything.

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It seems like yours was just grumpy from the factory. My two have undergone several dozen hours each of dry-firing. I replaced the firing pins with Apex ones for better ignition reliability but others with the factory firing pins have found that they are a wear part.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

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I suspect that notches peen worse for folks that don't pull the trigger smoothly. If you sit there slapping the trigger for hours on an empty gun it beats the notches worse than live fire. Recoil slows us down. If you smoothly roll the trigger dry fire doesn't seem to hurt much. If you keep the gun in constant motion, the cylinder has more time to spin slower than if you snatch at the trigger for each pull.

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I switched to revolver recently and I was practicing every night for about an hour. After a couple weeks of this my 629, machined for moon clips, broke so I sent it to the smith and Wesson warranty center here in Canada. The gunsmith there said that the trigger stud broke and that he could not get the gun to lock up properly as the hand and extractor were

too worn. I needed a new cylinder which is not covered under warranty. Then I need to have it machined for moonclips. This is pretty pricey.

Was I just unlucky, do I need to give up on dryfire or is there something that I can do (snap caps whatever) to minimize the risk of damage on my firearm.

How old is the gun?

The stainless steel is softer than carbon, but IMHO it still should not fail like that.

As for dry firing, the newer guns with the external firing pins can break those especially the extended ones. I have never seen a SW factory pin break but I think the factory recommends snap caps.

Edited by bountyhunter
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the stud broke because the hand was not timed properly. another thing that will break it is a hammer and trigger that is not timing mashing up poperly and the last thing that will break a stud is pulling the trigger with the side plate off. Tell them to replace the stud and send the whole gun back to you. you will have to file the ratchet your self. way cheaper than what they want. Not a very good gunsmith, especially if it is a S&W gunsmith.

one other thing to all Revo shooters who do break a stud, pull the barrel off and strip it of all the parts. just send the frame into smith as gun parts, you wont have to next day it. also don't ask for them to do the more expensive job, just the basic stud replacement. they will sandblast the inside of the frame and ruin your polishing action job.

A frame is a gun, parts removed or not. Sending it as machine parts is a good way to get in some trouble.

+1 And if lost or stolen, the carrier is not going to replace it.

Edited by bountyhunter
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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

This. Although prices on 625s have come down, I can still get a new 5" 629 and have it milled for clips and buy some 44 Russian brass for less than a beat up 625. Same goes for a 610.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

This. Although prices on 625s have come down, I can still get a new 5" 629 and have it milled for clips and buy some 44 Russian brass for less than a beat up 625.

From where, the back of a truck?

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the stud broke because the hand was not timed properly. another thing that will break it is a hammer and trigger that is not timing mashing up poperly and the last thing that will break a stud is pulling the trigger with the side plate off. Tell them to replace the stud and send the whole gun back to you. you will have to file the ratchet your self. way cheaper than what they want. Not a very good gunsmith, especially if it is a S&W gunsmith.

one other thing to all Revo shooters who do break a stud, pull the barrel off and strip it of all the parts. just send the frame into smith as gun parts, you wont have to next day it. also don't ask for them to do the more expensive job, just the basic stud replacement. they will sandblast the inside of the frame and ruin your polishing action job.

A frame is a gun, parts removed or not. Sending it as machine parts is a good way to get in some trouble.

+1 And if lost or stolen, the carrier is not going to replace it.

You're not going to get in trouble misrepresenting it to a common carrier like UPS or Fedex to avoid the overnight requirement--they just won't honor the insurance if it gets lost. But don't try to ship a handgun frame via USPS, that is a federal violation.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

Meh....those thin, fragile moonclips do not work as well as .45 ACP moons.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

Meh....those thin, fragile moonclips do not work as well as .45 ACP moons.

I haven't really noticed any big difference between 44 and 45 clips. When someone steps on either, they both fold over :surprise:

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

Meh....those thin, fragile moonclips do not work as well as .45 ACP moons.

I haven't really noticed any big difference between 44 and 45 clips. When someone steps on either, they both fold over :surprise:

My 44 clips are a good bit more fragile than my 45 clips and they cost a LOT more. Bullet selection is also a PITA with the 44 since they are almost all flat points. Still, I like my 629 and shooting 44 Russian out of it is a blast.

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A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

Speed bear shooting?

I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

Meh....those thin, fragile moonclips do not work as well as .45 ACP moons.

I haven't really noticed any big difference between 44 and 45 clips. When someone steps on either, they both fold over :surprise:

My 44 clips are a good bit more fragile than my 45 clips and they cost a LOT more. Bullet selection is also a PITA with the 44 since they are almost all flat points. Still, I like my 629 and shooting 44 Russian out of it is a blast.

+1 I like my moon clipped M29, but the moon clips are more expensive and more fragile. I've only found 240 LEAD Rn bullets. Though I've been told there's a company making 200 RN.

BUT someone is shining you. I've replaced several hands and Ratchets for my 625 alone. It's not hard and doesn't entail a new cylinder.

I also have broken a trigger stud, and a hammer stud on my M29 & M625. Though I'm probably at fault. The most common reason they break is cycling with the side plate off.

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