pyrrhic3gun

Squirrel, just take it to a real gunsmith and have the crane stretched appropriately.

Look to see if the sear is hitting the trigger as it flies by after the hammer drops from the trigger's secondary ledge ( or whatever you call the ledge that picks up the hammer at the hand off from the sear).

OK, I'll add my 2 cents worth. I just grabbed a handful of my sized 9mm brass and ran some pin gauges in them. I'm using the U-die. The ranged from .346" to .348" ID varying by headstamp. I think whoever it was that cautioned about the powder funnel expanding the brass is correct. I turn my powder funnels on a lathe to make sure they're not affecting the neck tension. Just measured my funnel with a micrometer and came up with .343", so you can see it's not expanding my brass. Now, the brass looks a little bulged when loaded (like the snake that just ate a mouse), but no creep to speak of, since it's really grabbing the bullet. After a match, I measure the overall length of the rounds that are left in full-moon clips and reseat the ones that are .005" longer than I loaded them. There aren't many, maybe 3 to 5 per 100 fired. But definitely none that are anywhere close to disassembling themselves in the gun.

Don't do it! I have spent a lot of effort getting one to work. The main problem is the rotary magazine isn't designed to cam the rim of the case up under the extractors. The Savage Mark II magazine works in that design because it is designed properly. My solution was to gut the rotary mag and fix a Mark II magazine within it in the proper position. I'll attach a pic. Also the extractors need help by drilling holes in the bolt body and putting springs under the extractors to get a better grip on the bullet case. The trigger can be improved, but theres a lower limit at about a pound where the trigger won't reset properly. If you have to have a Savage, get a Mark II.

So, I'm interested to hear the rest of the story. I see from the results that she shot well enough to get 3rd Junior. Congrats to her! What load did you settle on? Did she get the chip in the bag and have to chrono? If so what did they chrono at speedwise?

I suggested 3.0 of 320...I was using 1.2" OAL with the 160. A little longer, a little less pressure for that load. Still well under maximum 9mm pressure.

Considering that I see a loss of about 100 fps due to the cylinder gap, I would suggest you try 3.5 of the N320 under your 145s. My QuickLoad program says you need 3 grains under the 160 to make 124 pf. At this point, why try to cut it too close?

I've been shooting the Xtreme 220 grain bullet in a 40 S&W STI, but I feel like it just isn't stabilized enough to suit me. Anybody know where I can get a 5" 1-in-10 twist barrel with a W/N ramp? Bull or bushing profile is OK.

I have Mechtech units for 1911, Glock, and Xdm. All of them have the extractor pivoted with a pin holding them and the described "L" shaped spring that tensions them. Since you said most of the problem went away with an extended ejector, I wonder if a lighter main spring (the one that drives the hammer) in the 1911 lower might help it fully cycle. You may have to experiment to see how light you can go without starting to have light strikes on the primer. I have also lightened the bolt carrier on some of mine, depending on the load to be used.

I know one guy that'll be there.

The 30 Super Carry operates at a considerably higher pressure (52,000psi max), so I'm sure any potential maker of a revo in this caliber will take into consideration the possible liability.

Duncan, Oklahoma has the SCRAP club. They shoot fairly often. It's only 60 miles from WF. Make sure you get a place with a storm cellar. :^) That's tornado alley.

A knowledgeable revo smith will square the cylinder between a mandrel and a center in a lathe. Then set the barrel back enough to be able to square the end of the barrel while establishing the proper gap. Find somebody that can do it.

Looks like I'm late to the party again. But let me tell you what I discovered on my 929 a few weeks ago. One of the hammer pins was creeping out and was starting to drag on the side plate. So I would get an unusual drag in mid stroke of the trigger. And of course no drag with the side plate off. Luckily, I took a close look to see and there was the drag mark. I wonder if you may have a pin that's loose enough to occasionally move out and drag on the frame. Let us know what Tom K has to say.

I'm pretty sure you mean Blue Dot, as there are like 50 powders between Green Dot and AA-7.