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pyrrhic3gun

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About pyrrhic3gun

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    Phoenix, Arizona
  • Real Name
    Kirby Goodman

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  1. Well, I just used gage pins on my 625 and the minor diameter (cylinder throat) of the pilot has to be less than .453" and the major diameter (chamber) has to be .477" or less to drop all the way into my gun's chamber. S&W is known to produce guns with undersize chambers, so it's really no surprise that the pilot doesn't drop all the way in. You can have a gunsmith run a chamber reamer and an appropriate size throater into the cylinder or have the pilot turned to the correct diameter to work with your gun. Using gage pins will tell you the diameters you need.
  2. What are the minor/major diameters of the pilots? Please show us pics of the two pilots.
  3. When people started competitively shooting "Baumanized" revos in the early 90's, the extra 7th shot was a big deal, since all that was available were 6-shooters. So, Smith decided it was a good idea to get a piece of the pie. Of course, very quickly RPM started making 8-shooters, but it took Smith a while to start producing the 627 eight-shots. So the 7-shot is an interim design. And some people prefer the slightly smaller frame size.
  4. Two questions. Of the loads you have tried, what was the most accurate? What is an acceptable group, in your opinion? I've never tested my CMMG for 50 yard groups, since we don't usually have access to that range for the USPSA matches that I shoot. So, if I dare leave my house (thanks CoVid) and test at 50, I'll let you know if mine does any better. I'm thinking, that my red dot sight may be a limiting factor., so a third question. Are you using a magnified sight?
  5. Saw this happen to a shooting buddy. Desired load was 4.5 grains, he was loading .45 grams (6.9 grains). Luckily, it was a relatively slow burning powder. As it was, he was shooting a major load in his 9mm auto. No wonder we thought it sounded "hot". :^)
  6. I have followed this thread with interest. After looking at S&W's forum this is a common problem. Have you actually measured the threads on the barrel? If they're too small from the factory, they will probably never work right. Probably not the problem, but I would think S&W would replace parts that are incorrect. Or, more likely, the threads on the shroud nut are bottoming before the shroud is gripped well. I would probably turn a short area behind the muzzle threads on the barrel to the minor diameter so the muzzle nut could tighten down further. Also, I suppose you could have a machinist drill the frame and pin the barrel (like the old smith revos).
  7. All this discussion is why I suggested you use a different powder. Also, I'm wondering if your technique for chrono set-up is up to par. When you're here in the "land of the free", we'll discuss how it should be done. And you can ignore that advice too. :^)
  8. Back in the last millenium, when everyone was shooting EAA/P9/tanfoglio in 9x21 those things would bend and break slide stops all the time. It will also crack the frame through the slide stop hole area. Are you shooting hot ammo? EGW sells tool-steel slide stop pins.
  9. Seriously, though. If you look at SGammo.com they have a few 38 spl loads that claim to make the ICORE pf (120). S&B and PPU are two examples. Once you find a couple that look possible, maybe you can find them at your local ammo dealer. You may have to adjust your strain screw to set them off, but perfection may not be available. :^)
  10. Maybe you could find some "California loads" in .357...they might make ICORE powerfactor. :^) Of course that might be fun and we both know that's against the law in CA. :^)
  11. OK, heres another one I ran into a while back. The hammer strut (I'm almost certain it was a titanium one) had a short length where the cross section went from the rectangular shape to a round shape which rode in the mainspring cap. The transition had not been beveled, so the sharp "ledge" on the strut would hit the mainspring housing and stop the hammer. If yours is like that, you might bevel the strut at that transisiton and see if it helps. Attached a pic of one that is beveled.
  12. How about this...is the magazine being held higher in the gun (due to the new grip's mag release being slightly higher) and dragging on the bottom of the slide? When you put an empty mag in the gun and rack it, do you feel dragging? If so, you can do a little relieving on the mag catch or the bottom of the slide. That might help.
  13. There is a Brian Enos reloading DVD on Amazon (couldn't find it on this site, except for an old page). You might try that for your library. https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Reloading-Basics-Advanced-Magill/dp/B0002BBUL0/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=reloading+dvd&qid=1555380710&s=gateway&sr=8-9 Granted, it's an oldie, but it probably will cover what you need. My advise...always wear eye protection. :^)
  14. Here's a link to the basics: http://www.ncaa.org/playing-rules/rifle-rules-game I suggest you contact the organizers at the college she's planning on attending for info. Back in the olden days when I played that game the university supplied some acceptable rifles (although being lefty would cut down on the possibilities) until I got my personal rifle. They might also supply other necessary equipment. She might want to think about playing the pistol games, since a lefty handgun might not be as hard to find. Or she might just want to learn to shoot right-handed...that's what I did. I don't know what the current "hot-tip" rifle is, but mine was an Anschutz 1413 Super Match 54. Google that if you think a 10-22 could compete. :^)
  15. I want to be positive about this. I like the idea because my eyes and iron sights don't get along so well. But...I think the people that will shoot revos in USPSA are already doing it. Those are the rules we used to shoot with back in the day before USPSA decided revos weren't worth supporting. So it would be nice, but I can't see it increasing the numbers.
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