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New to reloading. After the reload how do you get the lube off


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Just wondering, after cleaning and polishing empty cases and reloading a bunch. What is the best way to get rid of any case lube left over? Do you just tumble it? Also which is best and what's the difference between walnut and corncob media? Thanks

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I tumble 15-20 minutes in corncob after loading.

The basic difference between walnut and corn is walnut cleans the best and corn polishes the best. Some mix them as a shortcut but I like 2 hours of walnut followed by 2 hours of corn.

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For pistol: I don't use lube. I tumble the cases for an hour in corn before reloading

For .223 I tumble for an hour before resizing. Lube/resize/swage/etc then tumble in corn again for an hour before dumping into the casefeeder.

For .308 I tumble, then lube/size/reload on a single stage, then clean each round by hand.

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Just talked to someone at Dillon. They recommend running your reloaded brass bullets in the tumbler for around 15 minutes. He also said corncob was the best media to use. It's from the horses mouth so that's what I'll be doing.

I tumble 15-20 minutes in corncob after loading.

Eerily similar recommendations.

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Hi Mike, try some Hornady One Shot Case Lube spray already referenced after tumbling cases, but prior to resizing your pistol brass. Works well and no need to clean it off unless you are crazy with the spray can. Find yourself a smallish plastic tub (~12"x 12" works well) and put clean cases in to cover only the bottom. Spray and aggitate...spray and aggitate a wee more, if nec. Load away. I think you will like it.

I like walnut/Nu Finish for media.

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I only use one shot and I still tumble after loading. The rounds stay shiny longer and they are not even slightly tacky. Even using sparingly one shot is just tacky enough to attract powder flakes and other residue that eventually starts clogging up case gauges

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With carbide pistol dies, no you don't need case lube. But put some One Shot or in my case my lanolin/alcohol mix, on the corner of a rag. Rub the rag between your finger every third case, then as you feed the cases just rub them between your fingers.

The ease of pull on the press handle will be very noticable as compared to no lube at all. And there isn't enough case lube on the finished rounds to hardly feel.

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Yup, I like to use a bit of OS lube with carbide dies too. Much smoother operation.

I understand some will want to remove the lube entirely from loaded rounds. I've always strived to use as little as possible and the small amount of residue left has never been an issue for me...yet.

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I lube everything I load. Makes cycling easier with carbide pistol dies and is a must with rifle brass (no carbide here).

Using Midway or Dillon at present until gone, then will move to OS for lube.

I usually lube rifle brass before processing via decapping, trimming, sizing on my 650. I find that I

don't need to re-lube prior to loading since I back my sizing die out just so the decap pin pushes thru the

flash hole to remove any corn cob that may still be in there (or brass chip from trimming). No more

resizing takes place so no more lube is needed. Reloading takes place on my RL1050 where the primer

pocket gets swaged during the final loading.

I will then tumble every loaded round for min of 1 hr in corn cob in a dillon tumbler.

I use a Gralab darkroom photo timer to run my tumbler as it runs for an hour max and I don't have to

babysit the tumbler; set it and forget it in my well insulated/soundproof restroom area of my shop.

Get's 'em all clean, shiny with great feel. I especially like this because I then have to handle each and

every round testing it thru a case gauge to ensure proper size. YMMV...

Edited by SixBarSpur
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After de-prime/re-size I just run them in my ultrasonic cleaner to get the wax off and cleans the pockets a bit too. FWIW -- I also clean the cases initially in my U/S before resizing.

Just finished a hair over a 1,000 of 9's running about 300/batch. Once cap of the Hornday cleaner and didn't change solution.

I have enough brass always ready where waiting for it to dry is no big deal.

If I didn't already have the U/S (and weren't "thrifty" as well) I would use the steel pins.

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