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Ace38super

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About Ace38super

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Minnesota
  • Real Name
    Ross Rosenberg

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  1. I just started with wet tumbling before Christmas. I ran a load of 9mm range brass through the Franklin unit using 1 gal water, 1.5 oz Hornady sonic cleaner case formula and 1 tbsp Lemi shine. I do have a water softener for what that's worth. I did not want to use the pins for pistol brass and I did not want to deprime first. After 3 hours in the FART unit I rinsed well, spun off the excess water with the Franklin separator tub and dried for about an hour or so in the Franklin brass drier. The results were outstanding. The brass looked better that new on the outside and about 75% clean on the inside. I left them sit in a plastic bucket until a few weeks ago. No tarnish at all. I use Hornady One Shot and make sure to get the lube inside the case. The powder funnel does not stick on most cases. An added benefit is no more tumbling media to jam my case feeder. The cases were plenty dry right after they came out of the drier unit.
  2. I have 2 550B. I bought the 550 case feeder when it came out. I installed it on the machine I used to load .38 Super. It worked quite well. The only problem was once in a while a piece of tumbling media would get caught in the drop tube adapter and a case would get wedged in. No way to clear except take the whole drop tube off and push the case out. I found I was shooting more 9mm and now the case feeder is on the 550 that is dedicated to 9mm. The other machine is for Super and .223. The situation with the media jam still exists, although I recently changed to wet tumbling so I wont have that problem going forward. There is one new problem using 9mm. Every 100 to 200 rounds a case will go into the drop tube upside down. This never happened with .38 Super. This makes the case fail to feed into the size/deprine station and the case is usually flat on the slide and can be removed without problem. Thanks to the manual advance on the 550 it does not create too much issue. On the whole I would buy it again.
  3. I shot this stage yesterday. If you stepped on the top of the pedal it would activate. If you stepped lower the range of motion would not be enough to pull the hinged support out from under the swinger. The RO was very clear in the briefing and shooters had plenty of time to try them out. The real challenge was if you had ballet dancer moves you could scoot right along and pick up some real time. Others like myself were concerned about tripping and were slower. Like any activated prop there was some variation depending on who set the activator at the swinger end but they were certainly much easier to reset than the traditional stomp pad.
  4. Sorry, I'm out of town and don't have my dial calipers. I recall something like .330 but maybe someone else here can measure theirs.
  5. Don't try to use STI feed lip specs on a SV mag. If you look at the mags you will see the SVI lips have a different shape. The old style SV mags are tough as nails and the feed lips don't bend often. I like Grams springs and followers. The .38 Super follower works for 9mm also. Dawson or TTI base pads. Others will also work but use a mag gauge as the wrong base oad can put you over.
  6. I have the same gun. I used 9.0 4756 with Zero 125 jhp for the load until my stash of 4756 ran out recently. I developed loads using AA 7 with Zero 125 jhp and Hornady 115 HAP. I liked the 115 best with 11.5 AA 7 and an OAL of 1.240. The Super case will hold a ton of AA 7 so that load is not compressed. Use a chrono and start low. Small rifle primers also. It's too bad they stopped making 4756. It was soft shooting and low pressure. The downside it was inverse temp sensitive. It created some pucker factor at the chrono on a hot day.
  7. I have the same gun. Try shooting it as is for a while. The arched mainspring housing wont make a difference in the balance. The comp is a one piece Tru Bor barrel unless someone put in a different one. You getting a reliable pistol. Mine has over 60k rounds with exactly one malfunction, when a piece of supercomp snuck in.
  8. When I first started loading 9 major I had 3 case gauges. An EGW 7 hole, a Dillon and an old Midway. I found the EGW was useless as it rejected most of my rounds which were fine using the plunk test. I used the Midway gauge which rejected about 10%. I shot those rounds in practice and only a few were bad. I then ran a batch of saved practice rounds through the Dillon and all of them passed. I now only use the Dillon and the rare round it rejects goes into the box I'll pull for components some day. My die set up uses the Lee U die. I'm loading either Montana Gold CMJ or Horenady HAP. The odd thing is the .38 Super model of the EGW 7 hole gauge works just fine.
  9. Just toss the factory spring and follower and replace with Grams .38 super kit. Use 13 coil for the 170, 11 coil for the 140. You may not get more than 28 rounds in the 170 but the reliability is more than worth a maybe 29.
  10. 9# Wolff variable rate recoil, 15# mainspring. Also extended firing pin which is a good idea with the 15# mainspring.
  11. With the barrel you have I would use AA#7. You want a slow powder and lots of gas. I use it in 9 major and .38 super. In my opinion a jacketed bullet is better. If you want a round nose, Montana Gold 124 CMJ works well. I use an oal of 1.250 with that bullet. Crimp is .378 Any small rifle primer will work. You should start low and use a chrono to get to major.
  12. Before you start bending feed lips or messing with a gun you know runs with other mags, try to use a Grams spring and follower for STI/ SV. If you have a 170 tube get a 13 coil 38 super spring/follower set up. The rounds are not stacking correctly in your picture. I would use a 1.250 OAL for a round nose and 1.235 to 1.240 for a JHP. I had to ditch the MBX spring/follower to get mine to work. They are for Caspian but the principle is the same. They have been flawless with the Grams internals. Also, the MBX feed lips look more like SV so I would not use STI dimensions to judge if yours are out of spec. Ask MBX what the correct dimensions should be.
  13. I got a socket with the proper size head and put it on a 3/8 breaker bar. After heating with electric soldering iron a few minutes that setup turned those screws right out.
  14. You need to add Super and Supercomp. They are the same beast,.38 Super. The correct comparison is 53% .38 Super vs 46% 9 major. I shoot both and really don't care, but Super is still in the majority.
  15. Picked up a piece of brass that bounced to me at a local match. Headstamp is MAXX Tech 9mm Luger. This makes FM, IMT, and Ammoload look like a walk in the park. The internal ledge in those brands extends about a third of the way up from the base. This abomination has a solid base with a primer hole that looks like a tunnel, and an internal ledge twice as thick as the others that goes all the way up to where the bullet is seated. The only good thing is it's easy to spot with the ledge so far up the case. I haven't tried to deprime this case and it's possible that the extended base might prevent it, and if that did not stop the press there's a good chance the powder would overflow.
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