SixBarSpur

I sit on a barstool for both presses. I’ve bolted an adapter plate permanently to my bench that accepts the 650 or 1050 with just 4 bolts. Have tried standing on occasion but never liked it.

Yep. I have a custom plate bolted to my bench drilled and tapped for both 1050 & 650 feet and can quickly switch out presses. I slip off my casefeeder, hang it on my pegboard behind (stays plugged in) & re-mount on the other press after installed and bolted down. Works great!

I've got a hand mirror from Sally beauty or walgreens. When I need to see, it comes off my pegboard and over the hopper for a peek....not very often tho.

I made a subplate that is bolted to my bench which is drilled & tapped for both the RL1050 & XL650. Quick 4 bolts out and bolt the other press into place and remount the same casefeeder. I load .223 & 9mm on the 1050 but use the 650 for .40S&W loading & mounting my trimmer and bulk processing .223 brass. I find it more convenient than buying another couple of heads for the 1050 coupled with the hassle of changeouts. Already had the 650 stuff when I bought the 1050...

ONE. Everyone should have a MINIMUM of one Dillon machine! Assortment: Caliber(s) needed. +1! I've got limited room as well and I don't want both my machines mounted at the same time. I've got a laser cut 3/8" ms plate bolted to the bench overhanging slightly. It has tapped patterns for both my 650 & 1050 (& now gone 550b). 650 sees occasional use to load .40 & process .223 and the 1050 loads the 9mm & .223. Casefeeder hangs on the pegboard between switchouts. Easy-peasy!

^ This. I'll occasionally forget this nugget if I'm away from rifle loading for awhile but am immediately reminded; then I get to stop and clean up!

My son and I worked up loads last night to chrono today: Using Montana Gold 124gr FMJ, using Hi-Tech data of 3.8 -4.4 gr., loaded to 1.135"ish Ran loads of 3.7, 3.9, 4.1, 4.3. Avg velocities of 1007, 1022, 1055, 1082 resp. out of a UPS 9mm fullsize Std dev of 12, 10, 5, 8 resp. Now that Brooke mentions it, I was surprised with the low SDs these showed for us as we had trouble dialing in drops with this and some Unique I'd picked up. Don't know if it's ready for general distribution, but I'm willing to load up a thousand or so rounds to use in our matches... since it's C H E E P! and I can't find Titegroup!

I lube everything I load. Makes cycling easier with carbide pistol dies and is a must with rifle brass (no carbide here). Using Midway or Dillon at present until gone, then will move to OS for lube. I usually lube rifle brass before processing via decapping, trimming, sizing on my 650. I find that I don't need to re-lube prior to loading since I back my sizing die out just so the decap pin pushes thru the flash hole to remove any corn cob that may still be in there (or brass chip from trimming). No more resizing takes place so no more lube is needed. Reloading takes place on my RL1050 where the primer pocket gets swaged during the final loading. I will then tumble every loaded round for min of 1 hr in corn cob in a dillon tumbler. I use a Gralab darkroom photo timer to run my tumbler as it runs for an hour max and I don't have to babysit the tumbler; set it and forget it in my well insulated/soundproof restroom area of my shop. Get's 'em all clean, shiny with great feel. I especially like this because I then have to handle each and every round testing it thru a case gauge to ensure proper size. YMMV...

sarpau, I had a similar problem with my RL1050 recently. As my slide operating arm had somehow shifted and needed to be readjusted and clamped better, I was surprised to find another problem soon after; my shell plate didn't want to index. I was finding that my rocker and primer punch was similarly 'stuck' and snapped back. I traced it to a gunked up primer system tappet & bore, not allowing the rocker and punch to return to proper position. Small grains of powder and dust with lube must've accumulated. I loosened the lock ring and raised the shell plate and popped the tappet out. Cleaned the tappet, hole and lower surface and it all went back to smooth operation. Usually my 'cleaning routine' wouldn't include this tappet & bore.

Choosing one set up in a caliber gives you much more than just dies. Unless you have all shell plates, and conversion components, you'd be ahead to get it set up in whatever caliber you have dies and sell the Dillon dies. I just clicked 'place order' on .223 conversion parts and toolhead for just the items I need since many of my 9mm components work for the .223 kit as well.

Got an RL1050 for all small primer, high volume stuff. Keeping the 650 for change overs and longer stuff (.308). Have a custom plate bolted to the workbench that I just unbolt the 1050 and bolt on the 650, using the same casefeeder. I've not loaded any large primer cartridges yet, but will do so with the 650. Have a couple of 550s coming up for sale. Mine and a deceased friends that I need to pick up. Any interest?

There's at least one video on the web showing a slick setup with rubber bands fashioned on a 600 that make the backup rod move up and back as the lever is operated. Looks like an increase of about fivefold on swaging brass with that little trick. Look up: Automatic Dillon Super Swage 600 Modification As for me....I just picked up a sealed in box Dillon refurbished RL1050. Finally...got...one..

Engineer here...ha ha, that's me too!!

HotLoad, reading your post was almost like I wrote it. I've got the same problem. Trouble is, the instructions say turn it on and go back to loading...NO WAY. I've got to watch the primers going in like a hawk or have one or two (or none) flip over. Worse, it slows loading since I'll have to stop after every one or two tubes to watch over another primer loading sequence....aargh! I'm getting the best luck by tightening the bushing retaining screw more than the manual says; not tight, just tighter than the .040" gap. I've also read somewhere that setting on a softer surface rather than hard bench helps. I don't have the rheostat set-up on mine; obviously there's a reason somebody went to that fix. I think I'll try to come up with a way to transfer RF100 primers to regular filler tubes and be able to have a half dozen ready before a session. My 'freebie' came with only the large primer tube assy with the 'B' plate. I called Dillon to order the conversion kit for small primers but no mention was made that the kit did not contain the 'A' plate. So....for another fee + freight charge and days' wait, I was able to start filling. SBS

I would be cautious about using a bullet shaped tip for the powder check. The standard tips have a flat end for a reason; to give more consistent readings when dropping onto loose powder. I'd be concerned about a bullet tip being more erratic when plunging into a powder. My 2 cents. That said, I've loaded a few thousand .223s since getting my 650 and have never had a problem with the power check plunger dropping into the casemouth. Is the locknut on the plunger tight and the rod straight? As you stated, you did find runout in some rods...this would be a problem; even if locked down. One of my observation rituals during loading is to see, either directly or peripherally (but always consciously), that the powercheck plunger actually rises up and activates the alarm body. Even if I get a 'chirp', I know there is a charge of powder in the case. I'm loading for 3-Gun, not bullseye after all. YMMV

+1 to above. Can also use a thin tool thru the slot to raise the top case enough to remove the clear tube.

I will be using it when my tub arrives...

Yesterday I returned a buddy's 1050 that he let me borrow with his trimmer attached. Over the past week I was able to process about 3200 rounds of .223 brass; decapped/sized, swaged, trimmed/sized, tumbled and ready to load. We generally start with range brass by washing with soap in a mortar mixer, rinsing in the same mixer, and drying on a rack. That gets most all dirt off and out of the brass which allows processing before actually tumbling. I generally tumble finished rounds also to get a nice, clean end product. What!?!?! Doesn't everyone have a friend that will just un-bolt his 1050 from his bench and let you use it???

Well, look's like that's not the fix for me. I've aligned the primer punch and shell plate as close as I can but it appears that the military crimps on the primer pockets are going to keep it from happening. Fortunately, I've got a buddy who's going to lend me his 1050 with a case trimmer and let me prep all the brass I've got. Should be able to prep a few thousand this weekend... It's not everyday you can find a friend who will do that for you !!!

Like many, when I found Brian's site, I read thru a number of 650 posts to see what other had experienced. Now, I had this very problem when I switched over to .223 for the first time on this press (what is it about .223???). I just thought that my brass had tight primer pockets and the primers were going in too hard. I also experienced my first primer detonation as well; man! that'll wake you up and get the adrenaline flowing, not to mention spook you and wonder if you need earplugs to load from now on. justinbaker, thanks for the pic. My shellplate is actually not going far enough and I was sure the ball would align the shellplate properly. I may have mine adjusted just the slightest bit tight. I've got the thrust bearing components coming for Monday already. I'll take a look at the indexer cam and see if that is my problem! Appreciate the forum and great information!

al503: hadn't actually heard of that approach. Mostly just sanding some off the edges of the punch pin. Though as my press has been broken in, I've had fewer problems with primer drawback. MNJ, you say you usually feel it during the seating stage. I've had the same problem but since it usually doesn't allow full seating travel of the arm, it results in the new casing not being fully inserted into Station 1. Doesn't this happen to you? That has been my indicator that I've got a spent primer in the Station 2 case. None of my 'un-deprimed' cases have made it past station 2, but I've had plenty of unprimed cases make it round-the-horn on my 650 when I didn't pick up on how 'easy' it was to seat the primer....the primers weren't getting fed cuz my primer plate pawl was hung up and not returning. Causes alot of powder to fowl under the shell plate.

Just talked to Dillon and they're sending out the proper part. The one I received was indeed defective (unusual for Dillon) as it did not have an alignment lug or clearance slot for the case to pass thru. Also getting a new Case Insert Slide and Slide Cam since my cam has been cracked since I purchased (used) and its days are numbered. Dillon customer service: A++++

Great utility, Thank you. The conversion calculator lists the 'Red' casefeed adapter, #13143 for .40 S&W while Dillon lists the adapter as the Purple #18076. Dillon lists the same conversion kit as covering the 10mm as well which uses the Red CF adapter. Not sure why they decided that something different was needed for the .40 which is the same diameter as 10mm.

Okay...this has driven me nuts long enough. I purchased a number of individual caliber conversion parts from Dillon to avoid duplication loading on my XL650. So far I've loaded 9mm and .40S&W successfully but am having a problem seeing how my casefeeder is going to work with .223 brass. Can somebody describe their white casefeed adapter? I'm thinking it needs to have a slot cut in order for the brass to exit and drop thru to the station 1 locater plate. The one Dillon sent has no features other than being drilled to funnel cases in and turned to press into the casefeed body. No locating lug as the other colored bushings. Thanks in advance.