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Slide glide lite


leath4m

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Just received my new Edge. In the hand book the STI guys say to use a good quality oil and not a grease. On the internals I assume. Why is this? I have a dealer with a good supply of Slide Glide and I was going to use it "every where" I'm about to strip it down and give it a good clean. Any advice or concerns on using Slide Glide on sears, hammers, mainspring etc?

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slide glide gives my pistols some seriously smooth movement.

I would put it on all the sliding/contact points, I use plenty and just wipe off the excess, with such tight tolerances on 2011 style pistols it pushes all the extra out within a few racks of the slide,

I am new to 2011's (I used slide glide previously for my XDM) but I also put a little on my hammer/sear engagment, as well as on the back of the trigger bow where the disconnector touches,

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They could be talking about the slide/frame interface. I use Slideglide (light, medium and heavy) on my "looser" guns, On some of my guns, any grease slows the slide down too much, so I go with oil.

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I used slide glide light on my 9mm edge. It stovepiped every few rounds.

It slows down the side too much on mine.

Also, as the temps get colder grease can cause some 9s to short stroke.

Not to point out the obvious but: you can mix FP-10 (or any good gun oil) into grease to lighten the viscosity. I have two tubs of slide glide, one pure for "full grease" and the other gets blended as I want depending on where I am using it and what time of year.

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The manufacturer probably issues a blanket statement against using grease because it can cause tightly fitted guns to malfunction, and cold temperatures can make grease thicken and slow the gun down (malfunction). However, if you want to try it, give it a shot. In your gun and environment, it may work just fine.

I'm no expert, but you will find that one lubricant cannot do everything you want it to. Grease is thick and tends to stay put. Some oils are heavy, too, and tend to stay put. I like lighter oils for my revolvers because so as not to gum up the internals (revolvers don't need to be taken apart very often at all). Some oils have a tendency to creep and travel. My prescription gun oil (50/50 STP Engine Oil Treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil) is what I like on my 1911 because it stays where I put it. A great variety of things will work for you if you use them properly.

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I like slideglide, but found that it works best on the slide rails when applied lightly directly to the rails, then after after running the slide back and forth a few times to work the grease in I'll put a drop of FP-10 or Breakfree on the rails to thin out the slide glide a little more. Same thing with the barrel locking lugs, put a little grease on the lugs then add a drop of oil. I'll use a little straight grease on the cone to slide interface, and then oil everywhere else except for the sear where I like to use a little engine assembly lube.

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I'm starting to think that way. Do you heat the grease when mixing the two?

Nope, no need. Just add some oil and stir it. I have a small modeler's paint brush that I use for applying the grease. I use the non-brush end for stirring in the oil. It mixes perfectly.
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I use slide glide after noticing my gun getting dry by the end of a practice session. I have also been experimenting with my own brew of red synthetic grease and marvel mystery oil. I make it lighter than normal SG and it stays put. Lifetime supply is 15 bucks so you can make a couple different batches with various viscosities

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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They probably say don't use it because it can slow down the slide which could cause malfunctions so I can see them not wanting to deal with that. As with anything test in practice and see how it runs

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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A little off topic but the best gun lube I've ever found is 30W synthetic motor oil ... Best part is one can will last you several lifetimes even if you run your own militia ....

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Yeah, but for the price of the call I could buy all the oil/ lube I'll ever need

I wouldn't overthink this. Bill Wilson probably forgot more about 1911s when he sneezes than we'll ever know and he uses grease for lube, in fact wilson combat sells the grease. Lube is just lube. Grease stays put better than oil and protects better in general but is thicker. If your new gun is tight, grease might cause a cycle problem (might not) but ll you have to do is wipe it off if it does. I personally have more kinds of grease and liquid oil than I can count. Never saw one that wasn't pretty good.

A good liquid lube that is widely available is 5-30 synthetic car motor oil. Some people also swear by using ATF. Its a lot cheaper than gun oil because any product made for "gun use" has the price automatically raised by 1000%.

Edited by bountyhunter
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  • 2 weeks later...

I like using a heavier oil in the rails. No oil in the hammer sear engagement. Allot of powders are dirty and oil on the hammer and sear just collect grit and dirt. If the engagement surfaces are fitted and polished right no oil is needed. I like a consistent trigger.

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I use Slide Glide Lite on the frame/slide rails and a little on the barrel of my Open gun. Regular Slide Glide on the Limited guns. A major builder recommended Slide Glide on the frame/slide rails to keep the slide/frame tight. I use oil everywhere else on the guns

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