Ramag Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Does anyone make a failsafe rod where the portion of the rod going through the powder measure bellcrank is longer than the current part. This part is too short and does not allow the rod to hang straight down. The measure must be rotated such that the rod is not hanging plumb in order to work. If the powder measure is positioned have the length of the rod vertically plumb, the powder measure will bind. Yes, I have the rod inserted from correct direction, I've tried two different rods and three different powder measures. The problem is the portion of the rod going through the powder measure bellcrank is too short, and the radius in the bend is dragging on the edges of the powder measure bellcrank. I've filed the radius in the bends to effectively increase the straight length here, and this has helped a great deal in making in smoother and less "clanky". I know this is a minor issue, but the lack of smoothness and clanky behavior is annoying. Was the rod changed when the powder measure bellcrank was changed to the current slotted bellcrank that appears to be twice the thickness as the old deisgn? When I say twice the thickness, I mean from the pictures I've seen of the old design, the bellcrank is one piece and the new design is two pieces. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 I don't think your powder measure is fully seated down inside the die. That is the only way I can make my rod too short. As a matter of fact I took mine off last week and got in a hurry putting it back on and my rod would not reach the bracket. Took a minute to realize my measure was not fully seated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramag Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 Sorry for the poor description, the portion I'm talking about is the ~¼" portion of the rod that threads through the bell crank assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 (edited) The new design is "clunky". I use the old style with the springs. Edited June 21, 2014 by Youngeyes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 (edited) Does anyone make a failsafe rod where the portion of the rod going through the powder measure bellcrank is longer than the current part. This part is too short and does not allow the rod to hang straight down. The measure must be rotated such that the rod is not hanging plumb in order to work. If the powder measure is positioned have the length of the rod vertically plumb, the powder measure will bind. I never cared for the failsafe rod's z bend through the bellcrank assembly for slightly different reasons. As a result, I sourced the 1050 failsafe rod for all of my 650 powder measures as the 1050 rod has a clip to retain it rather than a bend in it. On mine, i bent the 1050 rod to match my stock 650 rod. I believe your rod is straight. You might consider swapping in a 1050 failsafe rod. See a post here for a picture comparing the two rods. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191250&p=2126062 Edited June 21, 2014 by RDA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 The older return rod had only one 90 degree bend at the top, and used a throttle clip to secure it to the bellcrank. With the two-piece bellcrank, the throttle clip was discarded in favor of two 90 degree bends in the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 With the two-piece bellcrank, the throttle clip was discarded in favor of two 90 degree bends in the rod. Why? I am using a clipped failsafe rod and it works just as well in my experience so far. I prefer to remove the rod from the top (rather than the white bushing at the bottom) to access or remove the measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
808win Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 RDA, good to hear that the Super 1050 failsafe rod is working out for you. I also find it preferable to disconnect the rod from the bellcrank assembly rather than having to yank the white bushing out. Eventually, the shoulder on the bushing wears down and the bushing doesn't stay in place on the bracket. Ramag, I experienced the same problem you're describing. The "Z bend" on my failsafe rod was not formed with two perfect 90 degree bends and there wasn't sufficient horizontal clearance between the bends (see picture in RDA's link above). If I secured the powder measure with the rod plumb, the timing of the bellcrank assembly would be off and the Z bend" would pinch the two parts of the bellcrank together. I had to rotate my powder measure as you describe to get things operating properly with the supplied failsafe rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramag Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Maybe Dillon will see this and make adjustments to the rod dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) If you want to get rid of that annoying clunk/clack grind off the finger that contacts the side of the measure so it will clear and install the old powder measure springs to return the powder bar. No more clack and runs smooth as a baby's butt. All of mine have been done this way as I could never get used to the abrupt clack with the powder bar slamming closed when the failsafe rod pulls it down. Edited June 22, 2014 by bowenbuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneSurfer Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) I noticed the exact same problem after setting up my 550 for the very first time. I called Dillon and got the /shrug. The solution is to adjust the powder hopper so there is no binding. You WILL end up with the failsafe rod not being vertical to get it working smoothly. I posted my problem here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191250&hl=%2Bfailsafe#entry2129528 Edited June 22, 2014 by ToneSurfer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theslasher Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Mine has to be slighty off vertical to be smooth also. Dosent bother me that it isnt perfectly up and down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganTom Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I have noticed this and just had to wonder why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 If you want to get rid of that annoying clunk/clack grind off the finger that contacts the side of the measure so it will clear and install the old powder measure springs to return the powder bar. No more clack and runs smooth as a baby's butt. All of mine have been done this way as I could never get used to the abrupt clack with the powder bar slamming closed when the failsafe rod pulls it down. Could you post a picture of the part you ground off? I hate the clacking as well. File is ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWhite Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I need to keep this thread alive because I have a few questions on this matter. Why did Dillon design the new powder funnel to have that click/clack? What purpose does it serve? If your using the old spring system do you still use the failsafe rod? That noise bothers me a little bit as well but I'm reluctant to change something without knowing why it was designed in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) If you want to get rid of that annoying clunk/clack grind off the finger that contacts the side of the measure so it will clear and install the old powder measure springs to return the powder bar. No more clack and runs smooth as a baby's butt. All of mine have been done this way as I could never get used to the abrupt clack with the powder bar slamming closed when the failsafe rod pulls it down. Could you post a picture of the part you ground off? I hate the clacking as well. File is ready. Edited August 17, 2014 by bowenbuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 You don't need to file. Just remove that wire spring and bend the tab slightly so it doesn't come in contact with the powder housing. You can keep the failsafe rod just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Remove the spring and part # 17838 and the fail safe rod, throw in trash, get two springs from Brian and run on smoothly. Replace 17838 with a washer of the same thickness. Edited August 17, 2014 by Steve RA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) I tried the spring removal thing but I didn't like the way the failsafe rod went into the mechanism. I have modified several of these to use on Lee and other presses that don't use a failsafe rod but you have to keep your eye on the powder bar to make sure it comes all the way back every time. Without the failsafe rod it will occasionally get stuck and not come all the way home no mater how heavy a spring you use. It only takes about 10 minutes to remove enough material with a Dremel to let the offending part of the measure to pass and after you install the return spring everything functions just like the old type measure with the failsafe rod securely anchored into its hole. There are probably a 100 other ways to do this but this is the best and safest way that satisfied me. There are no clicks and clacks and the powder bar very smoothly follows the press arm perfectly every time. You just have to make yourself happy on this one. I might also add that I REALLY do NOT like the way the new failsafe rod attaches to the platform so the idea of using the 1050 rod with a throttle clip so the failsafe can be removed from the measure instead of the platform is a great idea. That will be the next modification I make to all of mine. The new white plastic holder for the failsafe rod is a pain in the ass. Hey Mike! We are talkin to ya! Edited August 17, 2014 by bowenbuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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