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808win

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  1. What about the RCBS Gold Medal Match bullet seater die? Will it work on Dillon equipment?
  2. jeffabuck, that was a good article on cartridge case annealing. Thanks. bote, I struggled with (shoulder datum to case head dimension) variations just trying to full length size .223 Rem cases using a single stage O-frame press. The idea that I could fully raise the press ram, screw the sizing die until it abutted the shellholder and then unscrew the die a half turn (0.0357") or so. Then size a case, measure it, screw the die in a tiny amount and repeat until I achieved the dimension I was aiming for, didn't work for me. It wasn't until I read an article published in Precision Shooting Magazine and some postings on the internet that I began to understand what I was up against. Brass hardness (this is where annealing comes into play) and thickness, case lube type and application, press rigidity and operator consistency were among the variables. Based on what I had read, I decided to try a set of Redding's Competition Shellholders. Following Redding's instructions means that the bottom of the die is always abutts the shellholder (in full contact with the shellholder) when the ram is at the top of its stroke. You simply start with the +0.010" shellholder and work your way down in 0.002" increments until you achieve the dimension you're aiming for. This solved my problem. Based on my experience and IMHO, I would not expect to be able limit sizing variations to an acceptable degree (to me) on my 550.
  3. Thanks dauntedfuture. I look forward to reading your write up.
  4. The new MagnetoSpeed Sporter went on sale April 10th and quickly sold out. It retails for $189. https://youtu.be/LZQuY_8bzFY
  5. I probably made a mistake choosing to use the word "precision". Let's just say, I've been researching techniques and enhancements for loading the "best possible" (bottleneck) rifle ammunition progressively or at least semi-progessively (I prep my cases on a single stage) on a Dillon. If you have something helpful you'd like to share regarding this, then have at it. At this point, I'm only trying to follow in the footsteps of others, John Whidden being one of them. I think his list of accomplishments is noteworthy: http://www.whiddengunworks.com/accomplishments/ With that said, please keep my original post in mind, i.e. are you using one of the two billet aluminum toolheads I provided links for, and if so, what do you think of them?
  6. Funny you mention this. One thing to be aware of is that on the Whidden tool head it is thinner than a Dillon so putting the nut underneath is not possible since it hits the frame. This is on a 650. As a side note, the dillon head is plenty flat underneath to tighten the nut on. It doesn't need to be machined to work. Sarge, thanks for pointing that out. Was the lock nut that wouldn't clear the frame a Dillon nut? I'm only asking since, as you know, the Dillon nut is smaller than other nuts.
  7. S391, I've been researching loading "match-grade" or "precision" (bottleneck) rifle ammunition on a Dillon. Along with other techniques and enhancements, some people report using Whidden Gunworks toolheads with their Dillon presses, including their "floating die" toolheads. Here's a link to their Dillion toolhead webpage: http://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/dillion-tool-heads/ Here's an interesting YouTube video from one user: https://youtu.be/_MdLpgAnZT8 I was searching eBay and came across a couple of sellers selling similar products, so it raised my curiosity. Also, their prices are competitive with Dillon's regular cast toolheads. If they are price competitive and may offer some advantages, however small, I thought why not? One other thing, if one finds the need to install the die lock nut on the bottom of the toolhead, then at least the nut will contact a machined surface.
  8. Anyone using either of these aftermarket billet aluminum toolheads? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Precision-550-Style-Billet-Aluminum-Toolhead-tool-head-/221576696699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339700137b http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Precision-550-Standard-Billet-Aluminum-Toolhead-/171353809962?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e57ba42a If so, what do you think of them? Thanks.
  9. Anyone using a RCBS Gold Medal Match bullet seater die on their Dillion? I have a 550B and I'm wondering if the die can be properly installed on the toolhead while still allowing clear access to the bullet loading window. In case it matters, I'm primarily interested in using this die for .223 Rem and .308 Win. Also, how's your resulting concentricity using this die? Here's a YouTube video showing the die being used on a Hornady Lock-N-Load AP press: https://youtu.be/QZQ5ecwIBEI
  10. Amacron, is the z-bend on your failsafe rod (#97000) formed with 90 degree or near 90 degree bends? My guess is that it's not (you can Google z-bend to see images of properly formed z-bends). If this is the case, when the long portion of the failsafe rod is plumb (vertical), the portion of the rod that goes through the linkage is not level (horizontal). This causes the outer linkage's movement to lag the slotted bellcrank's movement on the return stroke causing it to hit the powder measure casting...at least on mine it does. In my case, I am able to get it to work by rotating the powder measure a little counter clockwise (viewed from the top). I start with the long portion of the failsafe rod plumb then rotate the measure a little CCW and tighten the 2 clamp screws (#14037) and try it. If the linkage still hits, I loosen the clamp screws and repeat the process until the linkage just clears. At some point, if the long portion of the failsafe rod is too far off plumb, the rod will drag on the inside of the white shoulder washer (#18086) which it's not intended to do. If you reach this point, consider replacing the rod because the bend nearest the long end of your failsafe rod is probably too far off from 90 degrees.
  11. RDA, good to hear that the Super 1050 failsafe rod is working out for you. I also find it preferable to disconnect the rod from the bellcrank assembly rather than having to yank the white bushing out. Eventually, the shoulder on the bushing wears down and the bushing doesn't stay in place on the bracket. Ramag, I experienced the same problem you're describing. The "Z bend" on my failsafe rod was not formed with two perfect 90 degree bends and there wasn't sufficient horizontal clearance between the bends (see picture in RDA's link above). If I secured the powder measure with the rod plumb, the timing of the bellcrank assembly would be off and the Z bend" would pinch the two parts of the bellcrank together. I had to rotate my powder measure as you describe to get things operating properly with the supplied failsafe rod.
  12. Ron, thank you for keeping us updated. Look forward to hearing if the replacement primer bars solve your problem.
  13. Here's a recent similar thread that's still ongoing. It contains some suggestions from forum members on things to check. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191393
  14. I wonder what Frankford Arsenal's thoughts are regarding the dezincification issue?
  15. Chills1994, can you tell me what the issue # is and what the article is about? Is it about wet tumbling? Thanks.
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