DBCooper Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I purchased one last night. Within an hour I had the shipping confirmation. DB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 "DB"- gimme' the site, please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 So, at 5,000 rounds you should be spending about 20% of the price of a new gun on refurbishing the wear items on your old one. In 10,000 rounds you will have to spend 40% of the price of a new JM Pro on wear items. Closer to reality (from my own experiences), you will likely be paying the cost of replacing the ENTIRE gun in wear items well before the time you get to 10,000 rounds. You will also have already spent the equivalent of 4 to 12 times the cost of a single JM Pro on ammo if it makes it there. How does this compare to other shotguns like the M2/V-max, 1100, or SLP? My only other point of comparison are the heavy duty trap/skeet guys who will send their gun back to MGW for a $300 action tune-up every winter, but a break-top and a semi-auto probably have slightly different wear patterns... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 http://www.oregun.com/OR3GUN/about_or3gun_marine.htm "DB"- gimme' the site, please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBCooper Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 stinsonbeach, sorry I didn't get it to you faster. I tried to this morning but for some reason my computer at work would not cooperate with posting. Morpheus hooked you up. DB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) "DB" Thanks for the info. For some reason my computer wouldn't hook-up w/ BE until just now. Ahhh, computers. Ain't they wonderful? Anywayzzz, thanks again. -jb ps thanks "Morpheus" Edited February 12, 2015 by stinsonbeach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I can address the wear on an M1/M2 Benelli. First my M1. It ran and ran and ran until 75,000 rounds. The bolt carrier slot rounded out because I didn't lube it enough. It began to intemitently bounce out of battery so I bought a new one and replaced the main spring. I learned to use a high quality Molly grease on the cam pin and bolt slot. Next around 225,000 the lower locking lug recess cracked. Benelli replaced the barrel extension, and I replaced the carrier spring.....thats it! The M2 I have is right around 90,000 rounds and I have cleaned it intermittently but have lubed the beck out of it. Replaced the carrier spring and the main spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 So Kurt, what your trying to tell us is the initial cost of a Benelli pays for itself after tens of thousands of trouble free rounds downrange? Or your just saying you could have bought 50 Mossbergs by now if you hadn't spent all your lunch money on ammo all these years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 So, at 5,000 rounds you should be spending about 20% of the price of a new gun on refurbishing the wear items on your old one. In 10,000 rounds you will have to spend 40% of the price of a new JM Pro on wear items. Closer to reality (from my own experiences), you will likely be paying the cost of replacing the ENTIRE gun in wear items well before the time you get to 10,000 rounds. You will also have already spent the equivalent of 4 to 12 times the cost of a single JM Pro on ammo if it makes it there. How does this compare to other shotguns like the M2/V-max, 1100, or SLP? My only other point of comparison are the heavy duty trap/skeet guys who will send their gun back to MGW for a $300 action tune-up every winter, but a break-top and a semi-auto probably have slightly different wear patterns... I know a guy with a 930 that used to professionally race formula something or other cars decades ago. His crew chief used to tell him he could break an anvil in a sandbox. Like anything, a 930 will function perfectly fine at the lower end of its comfort zone a lot longer than the other end. I had about 3,000 rounds through a Glock 34 competition gun and it still looked brand new until I attended a class in Central Oregon that had me rolling around in the silt on my gun side and drawing, grabbing my gun out of the dirt, etc. At one point in the class I had a malfunction that a tap-rack wouldn't fix, so I dropped the mag and racked the slide 4-5 times. Each time, silt poured out of my mag well. At the end of those additional 250 rounds through my pistol/scoop shovel, it looked like it had about 25,000 rounds through it. Those 250 rounds did more damage to the gun than the prior 3,000. If your 930 never sees more than bulk packs and low-recoil gamer slugs for competition, is cleaned/lubed regularly, stored properly and wear items are serviced regularly, it might make 10,000 rounds without a problem. That said, you can also kill one with a case of magnum slugs in one continuous sitting. It may not even take that long if you spear it into a dump barrel without a clamp between your barrel/magazine extension. Rifle barrels follow the same burn hotter or longer formula. A single stage of not knowing when to quit and the invention of 40 round PMAGS have combined to nuked more than one pencil profile AR-15 barrel. If you don't envision getting into the round counts being discussed here any time soon, buy what fits, feels and points naturally for you and has the go-fast parts you want now available for it. Trust me, that setup will change. That hard plastic side-saddle you bought 5 years ago won't have the same appeal today. Neither will all of the 6-Up shell caddies. If you're getting into 3-Gun, buy the most gun you can afford to spear into a dump box without cringing. For me, that was a Mossberg 930 (and two spares). As a lefty, I was always a Mossberg 500 pump fan because of the ambi safety. I have tang safety thumb twitches in my sleep at this point and even if given a free M2, I would stand there like an idiot trying to operate the safety that isn't there every time the buzzer went off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) Nope TonyTigre, I think what I was trying to say is LUBE THE HELL OUT OF THINGS!!! (note Spanish spelling of Tiger) I was not saying what is better or not. The question was asked do I need to rebuild X, Y, and Z shotguns after so many rounds and I was pointing out that in my experience not all shotgun need an in depth rebuild in X amount of rounds. Logiztixs has a very good point. The two Benelli I have experience with are never shot over 100 rounds or so with out a complete disassembly clean and oil. When it gets the least bit windy out I put them away in fear of microscopic dust. I would never expose them to rain nor any temperature extreme. I only shoot them on completely paved areas or well mowed flat grass fields at 60% relative humidity. I store them in a hermetically seal container and they are never shot to the point the barrel gets 3degrees hotter than ambient temp. I'm sure the ones used in such an abusive manor as 3-gun would need a complete overhaul at around 1500 rounds, but if you baby them like I do they will last at least up to 2 shells less than a good 930. Logiztixs......I am just messing with you, and it is ment in humor! I am just playing around.....Blanton's bourbon tends to do that to me....NO OFFENSE INTENDED!!!! Edited February 13, 2015 by kurtm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Well, the Benelli beats the Mossberg then. Case settled, since the 930 doesn't seem to like higher than 50% relative humidity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 If you don't envision getting into the round counts being discussed here any time soon, buy what fits, feels and points naturally for you and has the go-fast parts you want now available for it. Trust me, that setup will change. That hard plastic side-saddle you bought 5 years ago won't have the same appeal today. Neither will all of the 6-Up shell caddies. If you're getting into 3-Gun, buy the most gun you can afford to spear into a dump box without cringing. For me, that was a Mossberg 930 (and two spares). As a lefty, I was always a Mossberg 500 pump fan because of the ambi safety. I have tang safety thumb twitches in my sleep at this point and even if given a free M2, I would stand there like an idiot trying to operate the safety that isn't there every time the buzzer went off. Experience is the harshest teacher and I am a slow learner I've been there a few times. I shot tac ops/lim scope/whatever you want to call it last year with a Supernova because it sucked less to reload than my 1100, and I think I'm the only person I know who's made an M2 crap its pants. I have simple expectations about my guns because if I can press the trigger without displacing the sights, any other feature is just icing on the cake. I don't need stuff to go fast, just go. Taking 2 oz off a factory slide to make it cycle faster does nothing for me if I'm not tracking the sights fast enough to make use of that feature -- the same goes for lightened bolts, low mass buffers, #4 pheasant shot, and a lot of the other little accoutrements people will dive into because top shooters use them. I also try to have realistic expectations about maintenance. Before I started shooting USPSA I'd never known you can shoot out a pistol barrel, then I met people who burned 50,000 rounds a year out of one gun. I imagine everything breaks, but the "when" can be different from model to model, manufacturer to manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonF Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) I finally got a chance to install the retainer and while it pulled the handguard in a bit, there seems to be a lot more gap remaining on my particular gun. Before the new retainer it had a large amount of gap but after installation it went to a more moderate amount of gap but not the seemingly 0 amount of gap that other users seem to experience. I think the issue is that material on the underside of the handguard where it touches the retainer will not let it bottom out fully as the curvatures don't quite match up. Some grinding of either the handguard or retainer may let it bottom out further. What would the ideal method be to draw it in a bit tighter? PS. Yes I know, my port work is a bit aggressive but it works. Before After Edited February 16, 2015 by JonF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 You will need to do some additional grinding, but NOT on the retainer. The retainer's back side is the correct dimension to keep your forend clear of the pusher assembly. The trick to drawing the forend closer to the receiver is by making it thinner so it will wrap around the retainer when the retainer pulls it tight against the receiver. Here are some pictures showing where to ramp the forend: The above is a factory JM Pro Forearm, marked for tapering with a belt sander, then a Black & Decker Mouse sander using various grits of paper. The 'pointed' end of the marking sees very little material removal, while the wider end is made quite thin. Here's a view from the side: Once you remove material from there, the forend will have enough flex to wrap perfectly around the retainer, while the threaded nylon posts will allow you to draw the forend higher along the receiver. Hope that helps. I will see if I can dig up any pictures of the steps in between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Here's a wide view of the complete forearm modification. With this much material removed from the forearm, it will wrap right around the retainer, which must maintain its profile because of the need for pusher assembly clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCK Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) logiztix On your website it said you are low in stock with the plastic forearm retainers. Do you have 3 of plastic forearm retainers in stock? I want to order 3 of them. Edited February 16, 2015 by WCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 WCK, you have a PM waiting for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDRODA396 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 logiztix, thanks for posting those pics... I received my retainer and those were exactly what I needed to get the tools and tape out this week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robport Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 After becoming quite frustrated with Mossberg taking so long to send the parts they promised (called them last week again and they said they had a record of me calling, but no parts on the way), I decided to try to make my own. I finally managed to get the remainder of the forward pin out of the forward shell stop. I went and bought a 1/16" drill bit from Home Depot, cut the drill part off with a dremel cut-off wheel, and got the shank down to size. I installed everything and I hate to jinx it, but it looks like it's working like it should. I'll find out at the range...and in the meantime, my parts will probably get here tomorrow now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 ...and in the meantime, my parts will probably get here tomorrow now. That's usually how it works. I have a lot better luck with Mossberg's parts department when I can give them an exact part number and order ONLY that. They will hold an entire multi-item order until every last item is ready to ship. The only clue you will have is when it shows up at your door unless you call regularly for status. I'm trying to build a part number listing for as many common parts as I can round up to make it easier to order from them. If I knew where to post it so it would stick, I would start it. When you do get your part, look for a part number on your invoice and maybe we can make it easier for the next guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robport Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 ...and of course the parts arrived...right on schedule one day after I "fashioned" a fix. Rear Shell Stop M935 PN 16792 Front Shell stop/HSG Spring M935/930 PN 16795 Front Shell Stop M935/930 PN 16794 Front Shell Stop Pin Blued PN 16808BL (part I made out of a 1/16" drill bit) Shell Stop Pivot Pin M935/930 PN 5877BL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 We should create another thread with a proper parts reference title, but here's a few more that I'm regularly ordering: Gas Piston Assembly M935/930 Boron Nitride PN 16801BN Magtube 930/935, Boron Nitride PN 5861BN Gas Piston Return Spring PN 16862 Return Spring M935/930 (Recoil Spring) PN 16881 Return Spring Plunger M935/930 PN 16882 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robport Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I tested it yesterday, 20 quick rounds through it with the drill bit fix.. I think I'm going to leave it this way for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDRODA396 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) I know this thread has several sub-threads so this could probably go elsewhere, but the pics here helped me decide to bust out the files, dremel, rasp, sandpaper and polish. I'm not sure how much I actually opened up the port versus knocking off sharp edges and polishing, but it looks like a lot of loading port jobs on here. The forearm is with the OR3GUN polymer spacer. I think it might tighten up a little more, but am not sure I want to try and get more, before I've really worked on loading it more. Overall, I am really pleased with the port and the forearm. Edited March 1, 2015 by CDRODA396 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logiztix Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I know this thread has several sub-threads so this could probably go elsewhere, but the pics here helped me decide to bust out the files, dremel, rasp, sandpaper and polish. I'm not sure how much I actually opened up the port versus knocking off sharp edges and polishing, but it looks like a lot of loading port jobs on here. The forearm is with the OR3GUN polymer spacer. I think it might tighten up a little more, but am not sure I want to try and get more, before I've really worked on loading it more. Overall, I am really pleased with the port and the forearm. That looks great! It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like you're fairly level with the shell stop pin, which is as far as I am comfortable going myself. I usually run a straight line from no material removal at the trigger group to level with the shell stop pin and ramp it down from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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