Akacala Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 So, I have a new 625 JM for IDPA after catching the revolver bug shooting my 10-6 is SSR. Now what mods/upgrades should I be looking at for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I would chamfer the chambers, change the sights, change the cyl release (review rules on this) and work the trigger. If you cut the hammer make sure it's done to be IDPA legal. Also, find a grip you like. Just no Big butt's in IDPA. That's what I did anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I would chamfer the chambers... If this is a 625-8 I would definitely ream the chambers also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S391 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 SDM makes a very nice F/O front sight that is super easy to swap out.... Hamilton Bowen makes a rock solid adjustable rear sight if needed..... S&W chambers can be a bit tight so polish the buggers... chamfer the cylinders....... Bob the hammer...... Shoot it and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I would chamfer the chambers...If this is a 625-8 I would definitely ream the chambers also. i forgot about that, that's a must do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelie Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 First, shoot it a bit with the ammo you intend to use in it. If it will function perfectly for a couple hundred rounds before cleaning, you might be good to go. Then start modifying it. Chamfering the chamber mouths is a good one already mentioned. If the chambers seem tight and you have trouble loading when its dirty, you might need to ream the chambers. I suggest you measure the chambers carefully before cutting. Probably want to lighten and smooth the action too. That's about all you need to get a good start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Hamilton Bowen makes a rock solid adjustable rear sight if needed..... I'm using the Bowen rear with WO. Great when paired with one of Toolguys .100" wide FO fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pittmanj22 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I went with a mismatched sight combo but ended up really liking it on my 625JM. Dawson precision .100" wide FO front with a Cylinder and Slide fixed Extreme Duty rear sight. Could have gone with the C&S sight combo but their front sight posts are pretty thick and not nearly as fast as the .100" Dawson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pittmanj22 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Akacala, Have you done any work on the trigger? Mine could use some improvement but I'm not a slave to a soft primers with relaoding so I'd be hesitant to change springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akacala Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 I have a spring kit I'm going to put in when I have time to polish up the insides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.J Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I have a 625 on order, but this is the first time that I've heard about changing the rear sight. What's the reasoning behind changing the rear sight and who manufactures them? Thanks, Dr.J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Money Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Anyone have experience with the Weigand rear sight blade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Anyone have experience with the Weigand rear sight blade? Yup. I've got them on all my iron sight revolvers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Anyone have experience with the Weigand rear sight blade? Yup. I took it off my revolver. They are fragile and bend easily. The sight picture is good, but when they bend down you lose elevation. After I dropped a bunch of shots into hard cover on a classifier I went back to a factory blade. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 They have a real good sight picture, but they have a up/down wiggle that bother some. I tried to use a punch to limit it and it looked bad and didn't help. I finally came to the conclusion after much testing that the wiggle didn't actually hurt anything. As long as it's free it goes up and comes down just fine. If it's not free it can stick at the up position for a few shots. The option most used in the past was a Millet, but alas some guy in Iowa cornered the market when they discontinued them and is probably just waiting for the demand to spike before releasing his cache! I found the factory sight that came with my 627, think it's a .160 blade?, is as good as either of them. It has a deeper notch than either the Weigand and Millet and a similar width. With a .120 width front sight I opened the sides just a tad and have exactly the sight picture I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunnut315 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I just got my Cylinder back from BossHoss he does great work and very fast turn around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 The option most used in the past was a Millet, but alas some guy in Iowa cornered the market when they discontinued them and is probably just waiting for the demand to spike before releasing his cache! Unfortunately, my small but precious stash of extra Milletts has been depleted. I think I still have one down there, and I'm saving it for a special future project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Money Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Thanks for the feedback, everyone! We'll see how the Weigand holds up for me when it ever arrives. If it's too fragile I'd have to go back to stock or go for one of those heavy-duty fixed jobbies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 First, shoot it a bit with the ammo you intend to use in it. If it will function perfectly for a couple hundred rounds before cleaning, you might be good to go. Then start modifying it. Chamfering the chamber mouths is a good one already mentioned. If the chambers seem tight and you have trouble loading when its dirty, you might need to ream the chambers. I suggest you measure the chambers carefully before cutting. Probably want to lighten and smooth the action too. That's about all you need to get a good start. My 625-6s have not had their chambers reamed, and they're fine. But every 625-8 I've seen (and I've seen quite a few!) has tight chambers. I quickly reached the point where I always reamed the chambers on all 625-8s to proper SAAMI spec. Without specialized equipment, I don't know how a person would measure the chambers--besides, there's no way that reaming can hurt anything. Simple rule: If your gun is a 625-8, go ahead and ream them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 If the chambers are already the right size, the reamer won't take out any material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 If the chambers are already the right size, the reamer won't take out any material. +1 All the 625-8s I've had in hand have required reaming before the pilot for my chamfering tool would go in far enough to allow chamfering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Loctite, all screws and extractor after doing your action job or mods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Loctite, all screws and extractor after doing your action job or mods+1 And use the right stuff. Purple 222 is most appropriate. Strong enough while still being removable. The more common Blue 242 is meant for larger diameter fasteners and can be too strong (but good for mounting optics) for the small diameter fasteners we're dealing with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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