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C-More Zero - Help


hvsmith

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I can't hold zero on my C-More Quinn II mount at all.I've read & researched the topic thoroughly but obviously I'm not doing something right. I had a plastic version on it, kept zero for 4 months then went south. I'd re-zero it, would stay for a match & then go south again. I read that the aluminum model held zero more consistantly so I ordered & installed her. Red loctite the aluminum one, set up zero shooting one ragged hole & everything is good. Next practice I like to check zero at the beginning, I'm not even close to being on. Re-zero, go through 250 rounds, everything is perfect until all of a sudden I'm 8" low & 3" right - WTF! - re-zero, finish the practice, check zero & it's perfect. Clean her up, go to a match today, 1st target is a 6" plate, put my dot right in the middle, bang, nothing, bang, bang, bang, nothing, I have a beautiful group into the no shoot behind the plate 8" low - WTF! Do I pull her off & start from scratch? Does c-more sell the elevation screw that I now have buggered up?

I have no idea what I'm not doing wrong & really could use some guidance & help with this real PIA before I totally lose my mind.

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WOW! That sucks Herb. I only know mine had a loose lock screw when mine started floating high this spring. I would say it's a bad sight but two in a row? Not likely. Do you have an upright mount to bolt it to to see if it holds? Did you try a brand new fresh battery?

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Mark the screws and body so you can see if the screws are moving. You also might check the tightness of the screws mounting the scope to the mount and the mount to the frame. I would not recommend Red loctite. That stuff is for "I never want to take it off again" parts. Blue is better for this app in my opinion.

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Yes I do, could that have something to do with it?

I had one that I had a shield on and had to sight it before every match or it was off. I took the shield off and put the regular plate back on and it held zero just fine after that. I don't know why but my guess was that because the shield hits on the top of dot module temperature changes caused the plastic to shift and move the module around just a bit.

I never did try it but I wondered if taking the shield off, putting a bit of soap on top of the module then reinstalling the cover would let it pull down without torquing the module?

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Herb, I had the same problem a few years ago with my

STI TruBor.

After months of trying EveryThing, turns out is was

the gun's grip screws were loose :surprise:

I loctited them, and problem hasn't recurred in

three years :cheers:

Thanks Jack, will do that today.

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Food for thought:

1. Every time you change your Load even a different lot of the same powder the Zero can and will move. I have not seen 8" but 4 or 5 yes.

2. Bullets hitting the comp. Look for small flakes of of copper jacket in the comp, and also very small lines in the flat edge of the bore holes in the comp. I periodically clean the bore holes in the comp when carbon builds up on the surfaces, a precaution.

3. Build up of crud in the comp, cleaned one up for a GM, that had been shooting RN zeros, lead and crud had built up in the small area at the end of the barrel. In that case bullets were also tumbling, at times.

If the gun will shoot a nice 10 shot group then the 3 items above don't apply.

I had the same issue as you, it was a cracked frame on the C-more, replaced it and no more issues.

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One other thing to possibly check is to be sure the lock screw for the windage (now your elevation screw) is actually locking down the adjustment screw. I've had two Cmores where the nose of the lockdown screw was bottoming out into the body rather than the head of it capturing the adjustment screw. Just tighten the locking screw up and see if the adjustment will still turn. Also I put a small star lockwasher under the locking screw so that it more positively captured the adjustment screw. That is what eventually cured my windage walk.

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Thanks guys for your suggestions - it's OK if I completely back out the locking screw? Where can I find that small of a star lock washer? My compensator is clean as a whistle & I only shoot one load & powder so I don't think that would be my problem, but thanks for your suggestions Coco.

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There was another thread here somewhere, and one fellow had a link to a tutorial on how to put a little blue locktite on the windage adjustment, but, you have to remove the sight from the mount.

One of my open guns has a Barry mount, which is a PITA to sight in anyways, that does the same thing. I've tried 2 different C-Mores, and am going to take the time to try the locktite thing. Neither C-more had a problem when they were mounted upright.

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Thanks guys for your suggestions - it's OK if I completely back out the locking screw? Where can I find that small of a star lock washer? My compensator is clean as a whistle & I only shoot one load & powder so I don't think that would be my problem, but thanks for your suggestions Coco.

Yep, taking the locking screw out is no biggie. The locking star washer can be scored at Home Depot or Lowes. It is pretty small.

Edited by Neomet
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I've fought with this same issue. Almost drove me insane.

First: remove the dust shield. Certain types can let the dot module wander around and you will not be able to ever lock it down.

Second: take the scope off the mount and put some blue Locktite on the windage worm. Run it back and forth a few turns and make sure the threads are coated. Reinstall the scope, sight in and it should be good to go.

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  • 4 months later...

Are there replacement locking screws available to buy for the C-mores? (torx or normal flatblde screws)

I just bought my first C-more and the locking screw is not tight (I can easily adjust the windage) but when I went to try and tighten the locking screw I put as much force as I felt comfortable with and it would not move??? With those small allen you don't have much leverage to begin with...Not that I am looking to apply extream force, the base is plastic and I intend to be careful. I hate to send this thing back. I was thinking of gently taking a dremel cutting wheel to the center and scoring a straight cut so a screwdriver could be used.

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hvsmith-

Are you using a thumb rest? You need at least two screws holding the mount to the frame not going through the thumbrest holes or the mount can shift.

Yes I have a thumb rest on the right side of the frame, being a Lefty - there is 2 screws attached to the frame, same as used for the C-More attachment but the length of the screws is cut so they don't go through the frame.

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Herb are you still having issues? I thought you would have this figured out long ago.

I was just answering the question from Shadow about my thumb rest.

No problems at all - made a trip to GA & everything was taken care of, less than a week turnaround time, a happy camper.

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