oteroman

You have many years of shooting ahead of you. I ran SD, 550, LnL and finally went with a 1050. I too am a competitive shooter. I shoot 9, 40, 45 and 223. 80% 9mm Just because a press is designed for a certain volume doesn’t mean your volume must be in that range. In my experience the consistency is better with my 1050. I am old The 1050 (1100) are so smooth it is easier on you. What i do is make a large run of ammo that will last several months. As i said i have run other presses. I feel the the precision/consistency is much better with the 1050. It helps IMO to do large runs assuming your press is setup correctly for consistency. The variability is less IMO with the 1050 (1100). Changing calibers is not a big deal. i bought separate toolheads/powder drops for each caliber but if your not in a hurry you can just change powder recalibrate, change dies.. Changing from small to large primers is easy as well. buy once cry once.

I can’t remember how high the trigger pull was but i was thinking JM put his name on this?

Probably the work that was done to them. To get the trigger pull down, chamfering titanium, etc etc i was one of the first to get Jerry’s gun. Piece of crap for me.

Trusted shooter with a reputation

Phone spelling sorry Protocol Design

Contact Protocball Design vendor on this site. he hooked me up on my 929 sold for some time.

You say you have not been able to fing load data for 9mm 115gr. FMJ?? What load book do you use? I have never found a load book that does not have 9mm 115 gr. FMJ (Titegroup is not a great poder for new loaders IMO)

Santini, Use the load tables for 9mm FMJ. Your load tables are your go to bible for starting out.

Do they have the manual on their website? If they do, lame.

Accurate bullet (JHP), consistent load. no big secret IMO. making that jump to 100 yards and being accurate is a big ask. depends what you consider accurate.

Dillon

It’s never been an issue for me. Curious what press are you reloading on. why not drop powder, add a bullet all at the same time? Big time saver.

I shot a 38 Special Target Colt Python last summer. Same conclusion. it was pretty. The owner had a big grin, expecting me to be blown away.

Buy my 929 and save yourself a headache

No need

What about a LEE U-Die in 9mm works well

That is good :) You made me smile big time.

The procedure is the same. The profile on the decapping pins (comparing 9mm to 40cal. ) can be what your experiencing. If you are not aware, putting a 45 degree(ish) profile does help with primer pullback. The other HUGE influence is how the brass was cleaned. If it was wet tumbled and the drying process was not quick and thorough. Not sure of the correct term (rust like oxidation) can cause broken decapping pins, and primer pullback. If your automated you learn quick how to solve these problems. Once you push that start button jams will ruin your productivity big time. Good luck.

Pre process your brass is the answer if you are running an automated press.

Someone that can smell a fart from a block away will complain your coating smells bad/weird.

That is a big ask to assume someone else's load (with probably a different manufactures bullet) for 4 different powders will work the same in your expensive rifle. Chronographs are inexpensive (less than a $100), and a tool every serious shooter needs.

Every gun is different so there is no absolute answer. You will know soon after you test. Many times you just need to do your own testing.

Clean Shot is a big sleeper. Great for 9mm and 9PCC Cheap too.

Just switch powder. TG is to hot for most coatings. There will always be folks that say no problems here. Chang powder.

Pictures of that vacuum set-up please. Visual Guy