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1911 Blew Up LOOK AT THIS


deerassassin22

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That is the fourth Springfield I've seen do that in basically the same spot over the past 3 years. They were all Brazil guns, either mil specs or loaded models. Springfield always took care of them for the customer.

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Hello: That pistol did not blow up it just broke the slide. It looks like poor quality material in the slide to me. The grain structure looks fairly course. Give Springfield a call and see what they say. Tell them you can send some pics if they want or tell them to look on the Enos forum :devil: I am sure they will make it right. Thanks, Eric

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I shot them an email today If I got time tomorrow on lunch I'm going to call. I hope they set it right hate to pay all that money to buy a brand and the got bad customer service. Had that issues last week from Bushnell.

Call them, they will email you a shipping label, feat a new slide, and have it back to you in a couple of weeks.. Those guys are studs...

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Spring to long and turns solid when at the rear of it's travel along with a flaw in the slide....

That situation leads to cracked bushings and badly damaged springs. A compressed spring that is too long will try to shove the barrel bushing out the front of the slide.

The spring plug area of the slide is what stops the slide against the frame, with the base of the guide rod sandwiched between the two. Where this slide cracked is the most predictable point of failure. Sub standard metal, or casting if it was cast.

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Well was shooting today on my fith shot shooting factory ammo. What the **** went wrong all factory parts no mods or nothing. I just emailed SPRINGFIELD about this assuming they say nope not fixing it where is the best place to get a whole new upper?

If you look at your last picture, look at the right side of the guide rod tunnel, it doesn't line up with the barrel tunnel.

This is a very common weak point/stress point on the slide, that corner right where the tunnel ends is the stress point/weak point.

If it is not cut right,too long, too short, has sharp edges or if the gun is sprung too light, this is the part that stops at the end of the guide rod, if it is taking a beating, or not set up right this is where it is going to crack.

Probably had a crack start, maybe on one side or even both, and then it just follow the path of least resistance around. Once it starts it is not going to stop until this happens

Not all that uncommon in limited and open guns, using light springs and major power factor ammo. It is usually caught before it gets this extreme

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Good to hear that you were not hurt. That is abviously a metal failure. If this is also the experience of gseveral other posters I would seriously question the reliabilty of their Brazilian manufacturers processes and would not purchase SA guns

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Good to hear that you were not hurt. That is abviously a metal failure. If this is also the experience of gseveral other posters I would seriously question the reliabilty of their Brazilian manufacturers processes and would not purchase SA guns

This is an older gun, it has the square dust cover, which they went away from in I think 2003

If it was bad metal it would have happened long ago.

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Good to hear that you were not hurt. That is abviously a metal failure. If this is also the experience of gseveral other posters I would seriously question the reliabilty of their Brazilian manufacturers processes and would not purchase SA guns

This is an older gun, it has the square dust cover, which they went away from in I think 2003

If it was bad metal it would have happened long ago.

As Indiana Jones once said, "It ain't the age, it's the mileage".

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I can't tell for sure from the pictures, but the fracture surface looks as though that crack might have been in place for a while. Given the relatively low stresses in that area of the slide, it would seem most probable that a crack had been there since the slide was formed. We get all sorts of products in for failure analysis at the lab where I work, but never anything this cool! (probably because we don't have an FFL)

It's actually a very high stress area of the slide. When the slide stops at the end of it's rearward travel, all the stress is absorbed in that general area. If it fails, it's going to fail near there. R,

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One advantage reloading has over factory is that you can tailor the power factor to your specific needs. I have chronographed factory 45 at between 185 and 193 whereas I load my rounds to 170 max. for major matches and 165 for Level 1 matches. Of course, the gun shouldn't have blown up like this with factory loads but I think running factory loads is harder on the gun and the difference in recoil is very noticeable.

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One advantage reloading has over factory is that you can tailor the power factor to your specific needs. I have chronographed factory 45 at between 185 and 193 whereas I load my rounds to 170 max. for major matches and 165 for Level 1 matches. Of course, the gun shouldn't have blown up like this with factory loads but I think running factory loads is harder on the gun and the difference in recoil is very noticeable.

You load to 165pf MAX for local club matches? Which means that you are shooting minor at club matches but not majors? Why not shoot the same load? Don't cheat yourself. At majors, your timing will be off if you shoot primarily locals at a lower PF. Reduce as many variables as possible.

To the OP: Have you sent it off yet? Any update?

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One advantage reloading has over factory is that you can tailor the power factor to your specific needs. I have chronographed factory 45 at between 185 and 193 whereas I load my rounds to 170 max. for major matches and 165 for Level 1 matches. Of course, the gun shouldn't have blown up like this with factory loads but I think running factory loads is harder on the gun and the difference in recoil is very noticeable.

You load to 165pf MAX for local club matches? Which means that you are shooting minor at club matches but not majors? Why not shoot the same load? Don't cheat yourself. At majors, your timing will be off if you shoot primarily locals at a lower PF. Reduce as many variables as possible.

To the OP: Have you sent it off yet? Any update?

I can't tell the difference between 165 and 170 PF. I have one load. Local or major, matters not.

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One advantage reloading has over factory is that you can tailor the power factor to your specific needs. I have chronographed factory 45 at between 185 and 193 whereas I load my rounds to 170 max. for major matches and 165 for Level 1 matches. Of course, the gun shouldn't have blown up like this with factory loads but I think running factory loads is harder on the gun and the difference in recoil is very noticeable.

You load to 165pf MAX for local club matches? Which means that you are shooting minor at club matches but not majors? Why not shoot the same load? Don't cheat yourself. At majors, your timing will be off if you shoot primarily locals at a lower PF. Reduce as many variables as possible.

No I don't shoot minor at matches. 165 is major.

To the OP: Have you sent it off yet? Any update?

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