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40 cal 686?


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That's the whole point of the 646/686 - it is more responsive than the 610 or any other N frame. Adding a couple inches of barrel won't do much for the responsiveness of the gun but will help with my eyes.

Greg, I can get a barrel for $120. It'll cost $150 for the rebarreling and then the cost to replace the barrel $100 +/-. So figure roughly $400 for the project. Building this with a custom Douglas barrel is probably going to be closer to $650-700 if you can get one in .40.

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I hope that this is related information to your question. I understand that there is a gentleman named David Clements that converts GP-100 to 10MM. I have not spoken to him and I have not heard any first hand information about his work.

"GP100 .357 Mag. conversion to 10mm: Factory cyl. is utilized in this conversion, refitted to frame with no endshake, linebored, and rechambered to 10mm. Back of cyl. is cut for full moon clips and chamber mouths chamfered for easier reloading. Factory barrel is rebored to .40 cal. and caliber designation removed. Proper caliber is remarked on frame. Barrel is refitted to receiver, recrowned, and forcing cone cut to 11 degrees. Barrel/ cyl. gap set to .005". Proper height front sight installed. $625 for stainless guns and $675 for blue. 10 moon clips included. Specify brushed or matte finish on SS guns or matte or polished finish on blue guns."

"These guns tend to be very accurate with .40's and 10's and will handle all commercial ammo. Conversion can be done on fixed or adjustable sight guns. Barrel shortening is not available on fixed sight guns."

I've never had him work on any double action revolvers, but he's done some "standard" smith work for me, barrel shorting, put Novaks on my Officers ACP… some semi custom stuff like adding adjustable sights to a Bisley Vaquero and full on custom work, building my 500 Linebaugh and doing a rim fire to centerfire conversion on a Single Six and rechambering it to a wildcat round. I wouldn't hesitate to have him do anything for me, or in recommending him.

Edited by cas
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  • 3 weeks later...

Good Morning,

Just an update on the 6 inch 646 project.

The 6 inch 686 barrel is at Clearwater reboring. The 646 frame is completely stripped and the original barrel is off. This gun was dirty! It took quite an effort to clean up. The cylinder chambers have been chamfered. The upgrade parts have arrived except for the new sights. I will be starting to work on the action parts soon.

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Hmm... Decisions..Decisions...

I have a 4" GP100 that I was planning on sending to Clements and I also have a 6" 686. The 686 is a heavy beast and I'm not exactly sure it even recoils at all with minor loads. But it seems that boring the barrel and that heavy cylinder out might just make a near perfectly balanced gun. SauconValley, do you have any idea on the wait time? Now I'm really intrigued.

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Hmm... Decisions..Decisions...

I have a 4" GP100 that I was planning on sending to Clements and I also have a 6" 686. The 686 is a heavy beast and I'm not exactly sure it even recoils at all with minor loads. But it seems that boring the barrel and that heavy cylinder out might just make a near perfectly balanced gun. SauconValley, do you have any idea on the wait time? Now I'm really intrigued.

On his website Dave Clements says as far as S&W he will only do caliber conversion on the N frame. He will turn a 27/28 into a 10/.40 or .45

It would be worth a phone call to see if he will do the conversion on a 686 though.

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It would be worth a phone call to see if he will do the conversion on a 686 though.

If you do it might be a good idea to specify you want a .40 S&W, NOT a 10/.40, chamber. There's a considerable pressure difference between .40 S&W and 10mm. Might ease his concerns.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good Morning,

The barrel arrived from Clearwater Reboring yesterday. It looks great. I screwed it into the frame by hand just to see how it looks, and it looks very cool! I have to cut a forcing cone and crown the the muzzle before putting it back in for good. I will try to post a picture when it is finished.

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Lentz was running a 646 with a custom six inch barrel. At last look he was running a 610. He's clearly the expert on the subject and great people.

Yes, I thought Josh was the original trendsetter on this concept, but I could be wrong.

I have seen him run that gun at USPSA Nationals the past couple years. It appeared to work perfectly, and of course he shot it extremely well. Now I see he's planning to get a .45 revolver. So maybe the .40 L-frame is not really a panacea after all?

Still a neat concept, though.

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So maybe the .40 L-frame is not really a panacea after all?

Still a neat concept, though.

I actually wanted this build for shooting the PSA, a falling steel match here in PA. In the stock revolver division, it is six rounds and then reload. I shot my ICORE Classic division gun, a six inch 686 cut for moon clips, last year. After the match, I started to think that a 646 would be awesome for the PSA. Of course a 646 with a six inch barrel would be more awesome. I just did not want to mess with minor 45 loads, and the 40s will be much faster to reload over the 38s.

So, that was my reason for building a six inch 646. Of course I am going to try it in ICORE and USPSA.

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I just did not want to mess with minor 45 loads, and the 40s will be much faster to reload over the 38s.

I know you said you didn't want to mess with it, but seems like a .45 with minor loads would be the softest-shooting and fasting-reloading way to go for the PSA. The year I shot my 625 at the IRC I used the 185-gr. hollow-base plated Berry's bullet at minor PF, and although I had a larger velocity spread at the chrono than I wanted to see, it worked perfectly fine.

Also, were you running your moonclipped 686 with Short Colt brass and machined Hearthco moonclips? If not, you haven't really experienced how fast reloading can be with that gun!

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Good Afternoon,

I have Hearthco clips for my 627s but not for the 686, and I was just using 38 Special brass.

I may have some 185 grain 45 bullets on the shelf, but I have my presses all set up for my "standard" loads and I have a standard 40 minor for pistols that I would use for the PSA in the 646.

I started shooting IDPA ESR with a 610 and then went to 625 and I found that I could move the gun quicker. With the 646 being so light, it really feels fast and there are lots of transisions at the PSA. I have 5 inch 625s for USPSA. I hope to take advantage of the longer 6 inch sight radius. I have never shot, or handled a 6 inch 625.

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When I built my custom 6 " 646 is was to be used for Uspsa. After shooting it for a awhile I decided since I had so much invested in it I would only shoot minor loads out of it. Parts are hard to find for them and I am really hard on my guns with all the dryfire I do. You can get the 646 to reload just as fast as a 625 with alittle practice. The 610 reloads just fine also and is heavier which is easier on the hands with major loads.

My 646 has a Douglas barrel on it, ion bonded and the ty cylinder is chambered to 10 mm in length, this was done because my spent cases where sticking in my cylinder. I have no problem with stickey cases anymore.

This year I will be shooting a 625 with a 6" model 25 barrel on it.

My favorite gun is still the 646 6".

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Josh and I agree.....the 6" 646 is the funnest of the revolvers I have (and I've got a few for the game).

I use my 646 ONLY for Major USPSA matches and with a little time on it maybe the 2 weeks before the match. (it is more snappy and transitions great) I practice with my 625 (when I get to practice now days) and lead loads (Cheaper that way)

I spent just a little time at the practice range with the 646 when I got it back and it vs. the 625 and the 25-2 have almost identical times on my normal drills (the 646 does have on average a .02 faster trigger split @ 10 yds) (I think it is the little shorter trigger stroke in the L frame ?)All my match revo triggers are set @ 6 lbs. reloads on the average (20 averaged on steel @ 10 yds) were: 625- 1.91.....25-5- 1.88......646- 1.93.......with the single fastest reload going to the 646 @ 1.68 (really fast for me) :surprise:

I started shooting USPSA with a 610 it is a good gun and but I was regularly having reloading hang-ups/stalls with the bullets not going in the chambers compared to the other revolvers so it went away for another 625 several years ago.

I'll be shooting the 646 at the Alabama Sectional in March I'd be glad to show it off (looks just like a 686 but with a Ty cylinder).

Hopalong

Would I go out of my way to BUY a 646 then rebarrel it just for USPSA.....probably not, but since I have a couple of 646s and got into the 6" 686 barrel really cheap (50 bucks) why not ? ;)

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Good Morning,

I shot the 6" 646 at my local USPSA practice on Tuesday evening. It is still too early to say if it is better or worse than a 5" 625, but it was a little stout and I had a couple of sticky moon clips.

I chronoed my 180 gr. Barry's plated round nose load yesterday, and it came out to almost 190 power factor! So, I am going to come up with a new major load and develop a minor load as well and report back.

I need to get a taller front sight as well. I put a S&W 0.196 tall rear sight, with a Dawson 686 0.230 tall x 0.100 wide front sight and the shots are a couple of inches high with the rear sight all of the way down. That cost me one miss on a head shot target on Tuesday. I will get the DX 0.300 tall sight and cut it to fit the 686 slot.

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post-17545-0-29008600-1330721009_thumb.j

I looked but didn't see the answer...did you put a re-worked 6 inch barrel on a 646 frame and cylinder ?

Good Morning,

Dave, you could look earlier to get the whole story, but if you start at post #30, you should be able to get up to speed.

I ordered the 0.250 and 0.300 tall Dawson sights last night. After I placed the order, I noticed that they are 0.125 wide. I have been using the 0.100 wide sights. I will see how they look, and I can always mill them down to 0.100.

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post-17545-0-29008600-1330721009_thumb.j

I looked but didn't see the answer...did you put a re-worked 6 inch barrel on a 646 frame and cylinder ?

Dave, you could look earlier to get the whole story, but if you start at post #30, you should be able to get up to speed.

Thanks, don't know how I missed it.

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