2alpha Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Could a 6 shot 686 be reamed out to 40 and be safe? If so would it be legal in USPSA rev division? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I built one like that. I'm only shooting minor loads though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Toolguy: Aside from a barrel and cylinder what other parts are needed to convert a 686 to fire 40? I was thinking of converting either a 686 or 625 into taking 40 s&w since finding a 610 for a reasonable price is ridiculous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Could a 6 shot 686 be reamed out to 40 and be safe? If so would it be legal in USPSA rev division? Smith and Wesson made that exact configuration except for the cylinder material and called it a model 646. The 646 has a titanium cylinder as an extra measure of safety, but I have heard of several folks boring out a 686 with no adverse consequences yet. Getting a barrel for the conversion might be the hardest part. I don't know if 646 replacement barrels are available. Buck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2alpha Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Cool news, but is it legal in USPSA rev division? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.343 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I hope that this is related information to your question. I understand that there is a gentleman named David Clements that converts GP-100 to 10MM. I have not spoken to him and I have not heard any first hand information about his work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.343 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Cool news, but is it legal in USPSA rev division? I would also like to know if it can handle a steady diet of major PF loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Toolguy: Aside from a barrel and cylinder what other parts are needed to convert a 686 to fire 40? I was thinking of converting either a 686 or 625 into taking 40 s&w since finding a 610 for a reasonable price is ridiculous. Just a barrel and cylinder. For a 625 you would have to find a 10mm cylinder because the holes are already too big. You could bore out a M27 or M28 cylinder though. The hard part is the barrel. In my case, I was able to find a 4" factory barrel that had been taken off in favor of a longer custom one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Cool news, but is it legal in USPSA rev division? I don't see anything in the USPSA rules that prevent boring a 686 barrel to .40. It would not be legal for ICORE unless shot in the Open division. Not legal for limited division. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian B Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I bought an N frame model 610 brand new last year for $1100 Canadian, Plus about $130 for a speed e rack and another couple hundred dollars for some custom-made moon clips.I shoot IPSC Revolver with it. I load it with 180 grain 40 caliber Smith & Wesson which makes major power factor. Recoil is almost nonexistent. (The 10 mm round is absolutely brutal). It is an extremely accurate revolver. A 4 inch barrel in Canada is unfortunately prohibited, a 4 inch 625 revolver is unavailable because of that rule. My 610 has a six and half inch long barrel which assists in longer shots. I also have a 617 for practice as well as a PPC full competition 686. The small difference in price between the 45 and the lower price 40 ammo will easily catch up for the higher premium you may have to spend for the 610. USPSA / IPSC revolver classes are restricted to six rounds otherwise I would use my wife's 627. I highly recommend my Smith and Wesson 610 revolver. Have fun and best regards Brian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Hello: I think after you get all the machine work done it would cost more to convert it than buy a 610 or 646 in the first place. I really like my 646 with minor loads. With major loads it is a little hard on the hand. I am thinking of trying some 220 grain 40 bullets for major loads next. I like my 625 better for major loads. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norther Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Side note, a 646 just sold on Gunbroker for $900. Looked like it had seen some use. I'd been watching it but I just bought a new limited gun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SauconValley Shooter Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Good Morning, Actually, I bought that 646 for $900. It may have gone for less with regular bidding, but the auction was going to end while I was driving to North Carolina for a match, so I used the Buy it Now feature. I also bought a 686, 6" barrel and I plan to have it re-bored to 40 caliber and then put on the new 646. I really like my 646s, but I wanted one with a longer barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Good Morning, Actually, I bought that 646 for $900. It may have gone for less with regular bidding, but the auction was going to end while I was driving to North Carolina for a match, so I used the Buy it Now feature. I also bought a 686, 6" barrel and I plan to have it re-bored to 40 caliber and then put on the new 646. I really like my 646s, but I wanted one with a longer barrel. Ken, let me know how that works out. I'm looking at the same thing myself. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 I also bought a 686, 6" barrel and I plan to have it re-bored to 40 caliber and then put on the new 646. I really like my 646s, but I wanted one with a longer barrel. Who is it that re-bores the barrels? I would be interested in the fixtures they use for the process and knowing what rifling they go back with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Hello: Are they actually boring the barrel out and cutting the rifling back in or are they sleeving the barrel? Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SauconValley Shooter Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) Good Morning, I am going to use Clearwater Reboring (www.deltagunshop.com). I read good reviews of their work. The barrel will be bored, reamed and cut rifled. The rifling will be 0.390 bore, 0.4005 groove and 1:16 twist. I will post something when it is complete. Edited November 2, 2011 by SauconValley Shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 my only problem with the 646--is you can't get the fired brass out-with major loads--it seems they swell or the TI.cylinder closes up,I bought one of the first PC,ones that came out with the slab side barrel,it worked with minor loads,,a stainless cyl.may work better,,I have owned two and they are both gone--should have kept the PC one I think they only made about 200 of them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 I use minor pf loads in my S&W646. I do not believe I could handle major pf loads in that light gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 I have the exact thing you guys are talking about. A 6 Inch 646 rebarrelled from a bored out 686 barrel. Work done by Deltagunshop.com talk to Allen. They cut and regrove the barrels, no sleave. Mine is quite more accurate than I am. Now you turkeys.....If you go and do this modification, I wont be the only one in the US with one like it (But I'll be the first, and the trend setter) Good luck with yours, I really like mine. HOPALONG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 my only problem with the 646--is you can't get the fired brass out-with major loads--it seems they swell or the TI.cylinder closes up,I bought one of the first PC,ones that came out with the slab side barrel,it worked with minor loads,,a stainless cyl.may work better,,I have owned two and they are both gone--should have kept the PC one I think they only made about 200 of them.. I've had that problem on occasion - liked to put a hole in my hand trying to demoon the cylinder Didn't seem to have that problem when I went to 200 grain bullets. Sam, as always you're leading the parade! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniele Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 175PF with a 217RN bullet, Yellow Rex powder; winchester brass, federal primer; in IPSC shooting a 32 round stage can rise heat of the gun but I have no problem with ejecton of spent cases; sure it kicks, but I love L frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2alpha Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 You used to could buy a threaded PPC type bull barrel for a L frame that would almost diy bolt on. Do they not make something like that in 40cal and then all that would be left is boring the cylinder out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 You used to could buy a threaded PPC type bull barrel for a L frame that would almost diy bolt on. Do they not make something like that in 40cal and then all that would be left is boring the cylinder out? It seems like it would be worth looking into. A custom barrel like a Douglas would be legal for USPSA so I wonder what the cost of that would be compared to buying a 6" 686 barrel and boring it out. There is no reason to stick with a S&W barrel since it would not be legal for ICORE anyway and an after market barrel is good to go in USPSA. Maybe even a little faster twist rate for a heavier bullet too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Unless you really like the smaller L-frame, the M27 or M28 is the easiest. Plenty of meat for full power loads. Just screw on a custom heavy barrel (legal for USPSA)and use 610 fullmoon clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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