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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Brake Cleaner


ck1

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FYI, gave my gun the deluxe treatment yesterday, detail-stripping everything but tge trigger and trigger-bow as it was filthy after seeing about 3k rounds since it's last cleaning (which was just a field-strip quickie and not real thorough).Took almost a whole can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner to completely de-gunk it but now it's good as new.

That said, found out the hard way that brake cleaner getting on the red paint that indicates safe/fire is a no-no, didn't lose/erase it or ruin it but it could've been close as the paint started to run pretty good before I caught it and wiped it dry, so if you want to keep your red paint watch out.

Now with the above stated, think I'm going to go back to using Hoppes #9 and try to stay on top of cleaning it more regularly, post-brake cleaner the metal was so degreased that it looked like almost too much, like it was overly dry... gave the whole thing a dripping bath of FP-10 to get it back to where I feel confident the metal is sufficiently "moisturized" again.

Wondering if anyone knows if there's a better way or if the brake cleaner might be bad for the CZ polycoat..? The brake cleaner/oil slather process has always been fine with my Glocks and once a year on my 1911's, but I didn't really like how dry it seemed to make the CZ...

Thanks.

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I've had a similar experience with a different gun a few years ago using normal brake cleaner so i stopped using it. I nearly stripped all the paint off a 10/22 trigger group just blowing the crud out. lol. Instead, i'll use the "polymer safe" can of Gunscrubber which is ok for all plastic, metal and painted parts i've used it on thus far including my polycoat CZ, painted 10/22 receiver and plastic glock frame. IT sucks when you're hosing out our gun with brake cleaner and you find that your FO front sight has dissolved on the spot. its much more expensive than simple brake cleaner, but i use it sparingly when i want to clean something a bit more vigorously than with MPro-7.

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I did the same thing just after buying a used Shadow. I thought I was the only one who did this so I never posted.

Wish I would have posted now and glad you did.

Now I spray the interior and spray a cleaning cloth to wipe off the outside, avoiding the safety mark.

There has to be a better way/solvent to do this. Sounds like the polymer-safe Gunscrubber might be the way to go.

Edited by 470nitro
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I've had good results with the break free powder blast its fairly cheap and has been safe on the glock polymer.. It does leave metals a bit dry but it's not as bad as brake clearner . I Just put a light coat of oil on all metal parts and your Good to go.

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I've had good results with the break free powder blast its fairly cheap and has been safe on the glock polymer.. It does leave metals a bit dry but it's not as bad as brake clearner . I Just put a light coat of oil on all metal parts and your Good to go.

Fyi - I've had that take paint off of stuff too. Like the lettering on night sights etc.. It's darn close to brake cleaner, just re-branded/named.

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I use the Hoppes #9 with a tooth brush to scrub everything I can get to, then use spray Rem Oil to wash all the crud out, followed by blowing it all out with compressed air (from compressor, not canned air). This works quite well on my CZs, 1911s, etc.

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I use some Casey's Gun Scrubber (with straw) in the extractor area after every use. Otherwise Hoppes #9 or Breakfree on the rest of the weapon. I like foaming bore cleaner too.

I don't think they need this much attention, but I have a personality disorder about dirty weapons from a former life :devil:

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I use non-chlorinted brake cleaner and compressed air to remove "all" oils and crud a couple of times per year.

It hasn't hurt the finish, but don't get it on the FO rod or grip tape.

I have repainted my red safety dot once---not a big deal.

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I've been using non-chlorine brake cleaner for a few years now on my SP01. Some of the crud recrystalizes on the exterior leaving white dots. I lightly wipe the gun with Hoppe's elite on a patch and the dots and haze is gone. Other than the missing red dot, I haven't seen any issues. I do avoid the FO in the front sight and the grip tape though.

I have recently been trying carb cleaner. It cleans well and doesn't seem as harsh as brake cleaner. No hazing on the gun after I clean with it either.

As a note, I clean and oil my barrel separately. Not sure why, but I do.

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You can use a bottle of red nail polish or modelling paint to put the "safe dots" back in place. Brake clean doesn't seem to harm poly coat or poly guns for that matter. It did melt the hard plastic grips on my CZ-83. It also does a number on my hands. I try to only use it once or twice a year (or when doing brake jobs).

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I've had good results with the break free powder blast its fairly cheap and has been safe on the glock polymer.. It does leave metals a bit dry but it's not as bad as brake clearner . I Just put a light coat of oil on all metal parts and your Good to go.

Fyi - I've had that take paint off of stuff too. Like the lettering on night sights etc.. It's darn close to brake cleaner, just re-branded/named.

it will also cloud up any clear plastic it gets on!!

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I used brake cleaner as well but as mentioned before it leaves it very dry. Now I just use the solvent tank, one dip in there a little brushing and then I just blow it off with compressed air.

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if you are going to use brake cleaner, use the auto zone name brand brake cleaner. it doesn't have have the bad stuff in it and won't melt plastics and paints. it will be dry as dirt when you get thru spraying it down. i'm still careful with it though. i have lately treated by 1911 with frog lube (check it out on youtube) and everyting just wipes off and as the gun is heating up while you are shooting, it self-lubricates itself. great stuff.

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