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glefos

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    Glenn

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  1. Yes, 40 is much harder on equipment. Rear sights (3) and extractors (2) seem to be the most prone to breakage. I change all springs every 3-5k, but oddly enough I broke a recoil spring recently. Gun is a Limited.
  2. I am currently signed up for Sat am / Sun pm. Is anyone signed up for Sat pm / Sun am that is insterested in switching squads?
  3. Limited with magwell and Stock II are not the same grips.
  4. I have 2 sets I might consider selling. Pulled off new guns and not used. I use Henning contour grips.
  5. If you are shooting Saturday, bring the .40. I can show you a couple very minor tweaks.
  6. I have my gunsmith make custom aluminum shock buffs. I have tested various thicknesses from .090" to .125" and all function perfectly. Issues with buffs not functioning properly come from incorrect design which does not provide relief from barrel contact. Correct ID and OD are also extremely important to allow the disengement of the barrel lugs. An aluminum buff with the correct ID, OD and relief from contact with the barrel will function 100% all the time. Obviously shock buffs are not needed. However, shot back to back with and without there is a noticable difference. Vibration from frame to slide, steel on steel contact is greatly minimized. Envision striking concrete with a hammer and then striking a block of wood. With a stock slide the difference is less noticeable. With lightened slides an aluminum shock buff makes a very noticeable difference. I am shooting 180gr FMJ out of a Limited at 170pf and use a 10lb recoil spring. Slide is lightened as well.
  7. Two times a year I strip my Limited down to parts and put into an ultrasonic cleaner with full strength simple green. Blow dry with a compressor and apply frog lube to all parts before reassembly. Between major cleanings I wipe out with a shop towel and then a pipe cleaner for the tight areas every 1000-1500rds. Reapply frog lube to frame rails and lugs before reassembly. The only chemicals that touch the gun are frog lube or simple green. Nothing sticks to metal parts that can't be wiped off with a paper towel. I don't break parts, the gun functions in all temperatures and very minimal wear at 25k rounds. I have tried all the oils and cleaners mentioned above. Hoppes, Mobile 1, Break free, brake cleaner, slide glide, etc. Even if I didn't already have cabinets full of those products, you couldn't give them to me for free much less pay for them now.
  8. You have something loose, cracked or broken in your 40 set up. Tear everything down, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble.
  9. You are confusing creep and pre travel. The front screw adjusts pre travel. The top screw adjusts over travel. Creep is something totally diffferent.
  10. Have the mag release drilled and tapped to accept a standard button. Just make sure the gunsmith does not drill too deep and penetrate into the opening of the mag release spring.
  11. I had an opportunity to shoot the FL Open a few years ago with an engineer that claimed to have worked on the team that designed the Tanfoglio. He was kind enough to spend 15 min with me in the safe area and pointed out the areas to improve reliability and the areas to improve performance. The picture above is an issue that I occasionally experienced and asked him about. You can use a heavier spring or fix the issue and use whatever spring you want. As the round is chambering, it is pivoting on the top of the feedramp as it is chambered. When it jams it looks like the round is nose up into the top of the chamber as in the pic above. The engineer recommmended moving the feedramp forward a few thousandths. Make sure not to break through the bottom edge with the radius or change the angle. Option two was to open up the top outside edges of the feedramp. Slightly opening up the top of the feedramp lowers the pivot point and eliminates the issue as well. This is what I did. Again, this is only a matter of a few thousandths. I then polished the entire feedramp. With the naked eye, you cannot tell this has been done. I am over 15k rounds and the issue has never happened again. Short stroking is caused by changing the length of the mechanical stroke (ie shock buff) OR a grip that is too weak for the chosen spring weight. Short stroking can be identified by the nose impacting the bottom of the feedramp. The more firm the grip, the lighter spring you can use. I use aluminum buffs and anything .125" or less is 100% reliable for me with a 10lb spring. I have also removed 1.5oz from my slide as well. Becareful with the diagnosis. Worn out mag springs and mags not seated high enough (mag defect or old style/worn mag release) can cause bullet impact below the ramp.
  12. 2 tries to get a spare mag release for my Limited. They sent the wrong part two times in a row. How is it even possible to get that wrong?
  13. Henning sells a long firing pin designed for the Stock II. It says for small frame, but in bold it specifically states for the Stock II. Frenchie has one listed on his store as well. That will allow you to go lighter on you main spring. No idea on trigger pull weight. Mo will likely chime in shortly or call Henning.
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