Suicycle Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) I am in the market for a 4" gun for IDPA that might rarely see something else, probably not though. I have been having the 686/625 debate for a few weeks now and pretty much have decided to go with a clip gun. Now my question is does the performance center offer much more for the money other than the ugly grips? Are the gut mim parts? I have the money for the PC gun, and don't plan on running out and getting an action job done. Other than exterior appearance what am I getting into. This all started a few weeks ago when I shot my dads K frame that had tons of rounds through it,slick action on it. Not sure of any work or springs in it. Then I shot my J frame 357 in a BUG match. I have the fever bad. I am not dead set against the 686 if a good arguement is made though. I may let the wife look at dad's K and N frames and see if her hands are to small for the N to use as a house gun. The 105 PF for SSR would be nice, but cutting big holes is something I like, guys scoring enjoy it too. I have always lusted after the 625 and I also seem to smile when I shoot my Glock 21 over its tiny bored brothers. I am about to get my reloading bench set up so there is no real arguement there, and cost for ammo don't fly either. If I want to shoot one over the other I can afford to feed it, gas for the truck is another story! Buck IDPA A45117 Edited April 23, 2011 by Suicycle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50GI-Jess Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) In my opinien, buying a PC vs. S&W has no advantage to it. The gun needs a full custom job anyway for serious competition. You're better off using the money saved, for the custom upgrade on the S&W. Yes, I know a lot of folks hate MIM parts. They just don't have the same feel/sound to them like "real" parts. However, todays quality MIM parts, has 99% of the same density as regular machined parts. So in reality, it's more or less an echo from the past. oh'e no...did I say that...ha ha Edited April 23, 2011 by 50GI-Jess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_r76 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 The two models aren't that far apart in price. I prefer the PC over the JM... mainly because I think the JM logo on the side plate and grips are pretty tacky, especially compared to the PC logo on the frame. The barrel lug profile on the PC model is sexier. I also prefer the smooth trigger with overtravel stop. I believe the PC model will hold its resale value a little better. Alas, the PC model was not available through LE sales, so I got the JM. As stated above, either can stand to be worked over a bit. Personally, I'll end up getting trigger work done, to include removing the trigger serrations and adding a bobbed hammer. I'll also swap the side plate and grips to remove the JM billboards. Finally, the cylinders on both are chamfered, but not enough... that will get fixed, too. Good luck! -Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 I agree with the logo on the JM and prefer the looks of the PM gun. But am I just paying for looks that in the end will need work? Now I shoot 2 to 3 times a month. I haven't shot the classifier yet, by my best guess I am shooting at EX levels with my SSP glocks. I have a way to go to make MA though. If the action is not limiting to my learning I will shoot it for a while. Thanks for the replys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 I prefer the looks of the PC over the JM also. I bought the SSR 686 instead of a 686. What did I get, cosmetics. Its not sent off to get trigger work done as well as the other goodies needed for a good wheelie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 (edited) I have a 5" PC, it's not worth any extra. I bought it wanting the longer sight radius and a lighter balanced barrel. A buddy had a 4" JM, he had to have the cylinder holes polished it was so rough he couldn't eject anything. If you can find a standard 4", that would be the way to go. Edited April 24, 2011 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrickysee Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 The PC 625 has a shorter cylinder and does not have a full lug under the barrel, so it will be a little lighter. The trigger and hammer are not MIM. I have both the PC 625 and the JM 625. To me the PC 625 feels smoother all around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSWEAR Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 The trigger and hammer are not MIM. I have both the PC 625 and the JM 625. To me the PC 625 feels smoother all around. I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 I have one of the first generation 5" PC 625s. It has no mim parts. They all need an action job no matter when they were made. Mike Carmoney did mine, the double action pull is 5 1/2 lbs and it lights off Federal primers with no problem. I would suggets you send whatever you buy to Mike for "Carmonizing". It will be smooth as glass when you get it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) I used to think the factory upgrades mattered, now that I have shot revolver in steel and USPSA and know what competition revolver need are, I have never picked one up from the box and thought, "Finally they got it right. This thing is ready to go". Frame size, barrel length and general condition is all I am looking for now. JM, PC, non-PC - it all needs to go to Mike or Randy. Spend the money on clips and components. Lee Edited April 30, 2011 by Mitch_Rapp.45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 All you really get with a PC gun is a different barrel. If you really want that barrel, spend the money and get the barrel. If another barrel will do what you want, spend the money for an action job or accessories or ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) I ended up going with the Performance Center gun. Warren, thanks for the post, you will be hearing from me when I dig out of the storm for a front sight. I don't like the looks of the Hivis and the only other option I have seen was SDM or something. I would have to dig out the Brownells and light the candels again. It will probably be near the end of the week before I can see the gun. My FFL is burried and no power either. I am visiting friends today and shopping for clips, holders, and kydex holster. And I am new to all the loading and unloading of clips are tools needed or just easy? Edited May 1, 2011 by Suicycle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglifter Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I had the JM logo bead-blasted off mine - as I recall, the main difference, for me, was the price - by the time I bought the JM and sent it off to Randy, who did wonderful things w. it, I think I had about as much in it as if I had bought the PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 All you really get with a PC gun is a different barrel. If you really want that barrel, spend the money and get the barrel. If another barrel will do what you want, spend the money for an action job or accessories or ammo. The difference in the two guns is a shorter cylinder and a set back barrel on the PC. I wouldn't try to buy that barrel unless you wanted to play cylinder games too. I had the JM logo bead-blasted off mine - as I recall, the main difference, for me, was the price - by the time I bought the JM and sent it off to Randy, who did wonderful things w. it, I think I had about as much in it as if I had bought the PC. They all do a little better with qualified personnel working them over. I'd agree that the JM is probably a better place to start. As far as logos go...so what? I spend more time practicing with the gun than looking at the grip and sideplate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattel45 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 The trigger and hammer are not MIM. I have both the PC 625 and the JM 625. To me the PC 625 feels smoother all around. I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg That is good information. I was just browsing the Revolver Forum regarding 625's. I am thinking about buying one for IDPA. I did not realize S&W had started using MIM hammers and triggers in their 625 PC. Their Website must be out of date. It still shows what appears to be a forged hammer and trigger. Thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maksim Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 excuse my ignorance... what are MIM parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntingPaper Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 excuse my ignorance... what are MIM parts? Metal Injection Molding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSWEAR Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 The trigger and hammer are not MIM. I have both the PC 625 and the JM 625. To me the PC 625 feels smoother all around. I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg That is good information. I was just browsing the Revolver Forum regarding 625's. I am thinking about buying one for IDPA. I did not realize S&W had started using MIM hammers and triggers in their 625 PC. Their Website must be out of date. It still shows what appears to be a forged hammer and trigger. Thanks Andy Andy, The hammer and trigger shown on the S&W website are the ones that my 625PC has but they are MIM. As mentioned I have the 625 JM and the PC and wouldn't really recommend one over the other. I wouldn't call either one competition ready by any means, both of mine had a #10+ double action triggcylinderittle or no clyinder chamfering. I don't know how serious you are about shooting IDPA with a revo but for a little fun they would be fine with maybe just lightening the trigger a couple pounds but if you are going to get more serious sending it to Mike Carmoney or some other reputable smith for a little TLC maybe in order with either model. Another consideration is the barrels, if you are going to shoot jacketed or plated it's not really an issue but if you are going to shoot lead the JM has the newer ECM or riflinghatever it is rifleing and looks like a criflingween standard rifleinriflingock polygonal rifleing which has caused some people issues trying to come up with a good lead load and the PC mrifling standard cut rifleing. I shoot a 230RN coated Bayou Bullet in both of mine with good rriflingOther than the rifleing I would pick the one I thought looked the best, the PC tacylinderrrel and short clyinder or the JM full cylinderg and standard clyinder. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattel45 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 The trigger and hammer are not MIM. I have both the PC 625 and the JM 625. To me the PC 625 feels smoother all around. I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg That is good information. I was just browsing the Revolver Forum regarding 625's. I am thinking about buying one for IDPA. I did not realize S&W had started using MIM hammers and triggers in their 625 PC. Their Website must be out of date. It still shows what appears to be a forged hammer and trigger. Thanks Andy Andy, The hammer and trigger shown on the S&W website are the ones that my 625PC has but they are MIM. As mentioned I have the 625 JM and the PC and wouldn't really recommend one over the other. I wouldn't call either one competition ready by any means, both of mine had a #10+ double action triggcylinderittle or no clyinder chamfering. I don't know how serious you are about shooting IDPA with a revo but for a little fun they would be fine with maybe just lightening the trigger a couple pounds but if you are going to get more serious sending it to Mike Carmoney or some other reputable smith for a little TLC maybe in order with either model. Another consideration is the barrels, if you are going to shoot jacketed or plated it's not really an issue but if you are going to shoot lead the JM has the newer ECM or riflinghatever it is rifleing and looks like a criflingween standard rifleinriflingock polygonal rifleing which has caused some people issues trying to come up with a good lead load and the PC mrifling standard cut rifleing. I shoot a 230RN coated Bayou Bullet in both of mine with good rriflingOther than the rifleing I would pick the one I thought looked the best, the PC tacylinderrrel and short clyinder or the JM full cylinderg and standard clyinder. Greg Thanks for clearing that up, Greg. I normally shoot my 686-3 in IDPA in SSR, but have been thinking about ESR. The PC might be the way to go since it has chamfered cylinders and some action work. I am ok with MIM parts - my Kimbers all have them and I have never had a problem. In fact, my Kimber 10mm is probably my favorite auto. Still, hard to beat a wheel-gun. I am still learning, that's for sure. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 How about a 610 of you already like 10mm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattel45 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 How about a 610 of you already like 10mm? I have found the 10mm to be a very accurate round, especially reloads. I like the heavier cast bullets (180 grain) and Winchester 231. I have never fired a 10mm revolver before, so not sure how the recoil would compare to a 625, which I have fired. I have only seen a few S&W 610s, most of them with six-inch or longer barrels. I also shoot .45 autos, so have an ample supply of brass for both calibers. I don't believe I have seen one at an IDPA match. Have you had much experience with the 610? Thanks, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Looking for a quick price check on a 4in. 625 JM? Only a hundred rounds through it. What should I offer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBandit Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 (edited) How bad do you want it? I think $700 is in the ballpark for stock/no work. Buds lists them for $778. Personally I'd try to go lower as I prefer 5" over the 4" and 700 was what I paid for mine in similar condition last year. Edited August 29, 2012 by BlueOvalBandit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks for the info. I didn't get it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Whyte Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I wouldn't worry to much if it's a MIM gun. Honestly,can most of us tell the differenc? I have the 625 JM It needed work,turned out to be one of my best shooters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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