Mattel45

From what I have read about the Ranger, the frame is actually full size, so I am hoping that it will work. I need to give my local gunsmith, Jeff Abernethy a call to see what he thinks. I may still try to sell it to finance an STI Trojan in .40. But having a custom gun would be nice. Glad your project turned out so well.

I picked up a 9 mm ranger for a good price recently and thave been thinking about taking the frame and putting a .40 slide and barrel on it. Has anyone tried this on a Ranger frame? Is it even feasable? Thanks

That does seem like a long wait time. I guess it could be the heavy demand that Smith and other companies a few months ago. I have just about decided to keep the 686 in its current configuration and probably sell it later on. It is a really nice shooter, tight and put togehter well. I pulled out my old model 15 and shoot an IDPA match last weekend and won the SSR division (of course only five competiting!). It was fun to shoot the little .38 again. I had forgotten how quick that gun is to shoot in competition.

Thanks for all the feedback. Just for clarity, it is a stock 686 with a six-inch barrel. You are probably right as far as selling or trading the gun. It is one of those Smiths that happens to be tight, no hammer wear from rubbing the frame, etc. In other words, pretty well built. The four-inch barrel I was thinking about is in the mountain gun configuration. It is in Smith's catalog, but I have not checked on the availability. I thought it would make a neat setup for IDPA, the range and just to carry.

Thanks for the information. I may check with S&W first to see what they say. At the same time, I am a little concerned about the QC since I have read about some factory guns with barrels slightly out of alignment.

I am a huge 686 fan and have a 686-2 with a six-inch barrel in the stable. I am thinking of having a four-inch barrel installed. Would going to S&W to have the work done (have not checked to see if they would do it) or going to a custom smith be the best route. I only have one 686 with a custom action job (Jack Weigand), but he no longer does gunsmithing work. Any suggestions on a good revolver-smith that could tackle the job? Thanks

I am looking for feedback on the 627 PC eight-shot revolver. I have handled an older one with forged hammer and trigger (and key lock). I noticed that the cylinder crane locks into the barrel shroud base via a ball detent lockup. It did not lock at the tip of the ejector rod as is found in almost all S&W revolvers. This lockup would seem less durable, especially with heavy/magnum loads. Can anyone give me their insight on this particular design? Is it as durable as the 627 Pro or an older model 27? It reminds me of a Colt which locks primarily at the rear. I had a Python that went back to the factory to be retimed because I shot a fair number of .357s in it - not all that durable. Thanks for the assistance.

Jeff Abernathy is a really good 1911 gunsmith. He is located in Mt. Holly, N.C. He is also a really good machinest. He did a great trigger job on my Trojan 9mm. You may want to give him a call. His dad, the late Tommy Abernathy, built a lot of USPSA guns. Here is a link to this website: http://abernathygunworks.com/PhotoGallery/PhotoGallery.html

Great looking gun. I recently picked up a 629-4 Classic in a five-inch. I have not had a chance to shoot it, but I hope to this weekend. It looks like it has never been fired. I am a big N frame fan, and I really like the setup on your revolver.

I have come 360 degrees in my shooting. Like you, I started out with revolvers in the late 1970s. I shot a Colt six-inch python for the longest time and then switched to a four-inch S&W 686 no dash. Still wish I had that revolver, it was really slick. Then, I got hooked on 1911s and shot them for the longest time. I am back to shooting revolvers and loving it. In the IDPA matches I shoot in South Carolina, I always see a few revolver shooters. We always have a great time. I try to focus on shooting my match and not worry too much about the autos. Andy Thompson

I have found the 10mm to be a very accurate round, especially reloads. I like the heavier cast bullets (180 grain) and Winchester 231. I have never fired a 10mm revolver before, so not sure how the recoil would compare to a 625, which I have fired. I have only seen a few S&W 610s, most of them with six-inch or longer barrels. I also shoot .45 autos, so have an ample supply of brass for both calibers. I don't believe I have seen one at an IDPA match. Have you had much experience with the 610? Thanks, Andy

I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg That is good information. I was just browsing the Revolver Forum regarding 625's. I am thinking about buying one for IDPA. I did not realize S&W had started using MIM hammers and triggers in their 625 PC. Their Website must be out of date. It still shows what appears to be a forged hammer and trigger. Thanks Andy Andy, The hammer and trigger shown on the S&W website are the ones that my 625PC has but they are MIM. As mentioned I have the 625 JM and the PC and wouldn't really recommend one over the other. I wouldn't call either one competition ready by any means, both of mine had a #10+ double action triggcylinderittle or no clyinder chamfering. I don't know how serious you are about shooting IDPA with a revo but for a little fun they would be fine with maybe just lightening the trigger a couple pounds but if you are going to get more serious sending it to Mike Carmoney or some other reputable smith for a little TLC maybe in order with either model. Another consideration is the barrels, if you are going to shoot jacketed or plated it's not really an issue but if you are going to shoot lead the JM has the newer ECM or riflinghatever it is rifleing and looks like a criflingween standard rifleinriflingock polygonal rifleing which has caused some people issues trying to come up with a good lead load and the PC mrifling standard cut rifleing. I shoot a 230RN coated Bayou Bullet in both of mine with good rriflingOther than the rifleing I would pick the one I thought looked the best, the PC tacylinderrrel and short clyinder or the JM full cylinderg and standard clyinder. Greg Thanks for clearing that up, Greg. I normally shoot my 686-3 in IDPA in SSR, but have been thinking about ESR. The PC might be the way to go since it has chamfered cylinders and some action work. I am ok with MIM parts - my Kimbers all have them and I have never had a problem. In fact, my Kimber 10mm is probably my favorite auto. Still, hard to beat a wheel-gun. I am still learning, that's for sure. Andy

I have both as well (both 2011 models) and they both have MIM hammers and triggers. Greg That is good information. I was just browsing the Revolver Forum regarding 625's. I am thinking about buying one for IDPA. I did not realize S&W had started using MIM hammers and triggers in their 625 PC. Their Website must be out of date. It still shows what appears to be a forged hammer and trigger. Thanks Andy

Thanks for the feedback. I already have a 686 that has been tuned. The PC gun is pricey and all my equipment is geared towards a six-shot revolver. Good advice. Andy

I just love this forum and have gained a lot of valuable information - thanks to all. I shoot IDPA revolver primarily (SSR and some ESR). But, I have been thinking about purchasing a PC 627 eight-shot revolver (non-comp) to try USPSA. I am a retiree, so I have to be a little careful where I invest my "gun money." Still, I have given this a lot of thought over the past three months (shoulder surgery on your strong side will do that). Life is short, so maybe I should give this a try? Anyway, I am seeking opinions on the PC 627, feel of the action vs. a six-shot 686, long-term durability, etc. I would greatly appreciate anyone's opinion on this model. Thanks much.