Which push-through case sizing tool do you prefer?

[Warhammer4k]

I have a bunch of 10mm brass which has been "Glocked" by being fired in the factory Glock barrel. None of the bulges are too bad, but they're enough that reloads made with this brass often will not feed completely in a Lone Wolf replacement barrel for the Glock 20. Likewise, many reloads will not go into a 10mm case gage all the way. They work fine in looser-chambered guns like the S&W 1006, but my focus is getting them to work in the fairly tight-chambered Lone Wolf barrel.

I use an Evolution Gun Works U-die for sizing, but it is powerless to smooth out the lowest 1/8" or so of each case. That is where the hang-ups happen, as you might expect.

Accordingly, I'm considering a push-through case sizing tool to un-"Glock" my 10mm brass. I'm looking at either the Lee "Bulge Buster" kit or the Redding G-Rx carbide push-through die.

The idea is that, once I've un-Glocked my brass, I will thereafter only shoot 10mm reloads in my Lone Wolf barrel. The Lone Wolf barrel has better chamber support & is much kinder to the brass.

Each option has its merits, but which do you prefer and why? Is there a different tool I should consider?

Keep it realistic, please - I can't afford a CasePro 100, as great as it might be.

[noylj]

I use the Lee Bulge Buster kit with the Lee FCD. Works great for .40. I plan to special order a 9mm Makarov FCD so I can "iron out" my 9x19 and 9x21 brass.

[Dis-1-Shooter]

I have not personally used either of your choices for buldge brass, but have tried a "home-made version" of the Redding G-Rx push through system. I believe by using either choices, one does apply ALOT of pressure, stress and wear and tear on a single stage press. I now am using a Casemaster Jr. It is a much better system and can fix buldge brass in other various straight wall cases, but it is also much more $$$. I also added a casefeeder and it really makes it easier. My only regret is that it will not do 38 super. Once again this is only my opinion and experiences. Hope this helps.

Edited December 23, 2010 by Dis-1-Shooter

[Warhammer4k]

I use the Lee Bulge Buster kit with the Lee FCD. Works great for .40. I plan to special order a 9mm Makarov FCD so I can "iron out" my 9x19 and 9x21 brass.

I've been wondering about that. Lee endorses use of the Bulge Buster .380, so why not 9mm? Supposedly it's because the 9mm case (9x19 to be specific) has a slight taper from base diameter to in-spec neck diameter. But how does that mean you can't bulge-bust 9mm brass? I would think the neck diameter - and thus the taper - would be established by a taper crimp later on. I don't see what that has to do with smoothing out a Glock bulge near the base. But then, I've never loaded 9mm.

I'm sure you've noticed that the Lee instructions specifically rule out use of the Bulge Buster on brass shot in a Glock. The feeling elsewhere is that this is merely a CYA move on Lee's part. That seems the most credible explanation so far.

[CocoBolo]

I have not personally used either of your choices for buldge brass, but have tried a "home-made version" of the Redding G-Rx push through system. I believe by using either choices, one does apply ALOT of pressure, stress and wear and tear on a single stage press. I now am using a Casemaster Jr. It is a much better system and can fix buldge brass in other various straight wall cases, but it is also much more $$$. I also added a casefeeder and it really makes it easier. My only regret is that it will not do 38 super. Once again this is only my opinion and experiences. Hope this helps.

I vote Redding GRX (left lower corner) $300 < CaseMaster Jr.

http://www.sashooter...p?g2_itemId=746

For 38 Super CasePro 100 right lower corner. $300 > CaseMaster Jr.

Edited December 23, 2010 by CocoBolo

[G-ManBart]

Another option is to turn down the shell holder you're using now, so that the U-die can get closer to the extractor groove of the case. I have one like that for .40 and it gets all but a very small bit right above the extractor groove, and they fall right into any case gauge, or tight chamber. R,

[sauza45]

I use the Redding GRx and dont even case gauge anymore. I have it set upon a single stage press, then load on the 650, the press runs easier also.

[427Cobra]

I got a 5 gallon bucket of 40 brass from my friend who runs a range, after inspecting and discarding more than half(Wolf and FUBAR) I ran the rest thru a Lee Bulge Buster, it does exactly the samething as the GRX carbide but cost 1/2 as much.

[Adam P.]

I use the GRX die.

[gregoryd]

I use the GRX also, and could not be more pleased. ALL my 40sw now case gauge with no problems. A little more work, but is worth it to me. I shoot the EAA Witness, and the grx has solved my magazine/feeding issues.

[Kevin Spencer]

I also use the GRX die, it works very well. Its a little slower to use than my Case Pro. But if you have the time. I use to just run my match ammo through the GRX die.

[Jman]

Lee Bulge Buster for me. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=882261 and http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=289675

Or...

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=231187

Identical process and results. How much do you want to spend?

It was easy for me.

Jim

[buddy_fuentes]

I'm with GaManBart, I have a Lyman "C" press set up on the end of my bench and I use the modified Lee die to de-glock my brass. It works great and I don't have very much in the set-up. If I felt I needed to push the brass all the way through, I could remove the decapping pin from the die and get a small rod to push the brass all the way through. However, as I said, there is no need to do it any different than I am doing.

I just checked a piece of brass and the area that is not touched by the die is so minute that I really can't measure it.

Buddy

Edited December 28, 2010 by buddy_fuentes

[FLSlim]

+1 on the Redding GRX.

[ncboiler]

G-Rx die here. Gives me a chance to give the brass a once over before it goes to the press.

[Warhammer4k]

I may get a G-Rx eventually, but for now I've sidestepped the problem by getting new brass (Xmas gift).

I'll also keep playing with the EGW U-die. I'm pretty sure I already have it adjusted down as far as it can go, but messing about with it on my single-stage press makes me wonder.

[photog]

just posted this

Could somebody post the ID for the GR-X?

[splashdown]

I've got the carbide GRX and love it. No more case gauging for me either. The spring loaded push rod really makes it worth the asking price. I have it setup on a Lee Reloader (simple $25 press) but the small diameter wooden ball handle hurts my hand after processing 400 cases or so. I need to modify it somehow.

[NOT QUITE RIGHT]

Redding GRX. Once they are sized it doesn't have to be done again,unless you are foolish enough to shoot them through a Glock again.

[Shooting Coach]

I bought a Magma Casemaster JR, and am very happy with the results. I shoot three 40 cal Gen III Glock pistols, but no issue with case bulges in them. I load a 165 gr pill at about 1000 fps.

I plan to put a Dillon feeder on the Magma.

[NOT QUITE RIGHT]

ReddingGRX

[Jman]

Redding GRX. Once they are sized it doesn't have to be done again,unless you are foolish enough to shoot them through a Glock again.

[Cy Soto]

I also went with the G-Rx but I chose the non-carbide version because it was a lot cheaper than the carbide: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=358543

[dskinsler83]

I have the Lee Buldge buster and it works great!!! And pretty cheap if u already have the Lee FCD in 40

[Jman]

I have the Lee Buldge buster and it works great!!! And pretty cheap if u already have the Lee FCD in 40

Sure is. Even buying a FCD with it, it's still about 1/2 the price of the GRX.