Shooting Coach

I second the 190 SMK. Do the precision case prep, weight, primer pocket, flash hole de burr, good brass and primer. I used Alliant RL-22 in mine when I shot long range using a 40-X in this wonderful caliber, but Alliant 4000-MR will work well.

The M118LR WILL damage the Op Rod on a standard M1-A. If you want to use bullets over 168 gr bullets, and shoot small groups over a long period of time with your M1-A, get a Sadlak grooved NM piston. The piston is a lot cheaper than a new Operating Rod. Less than $60 shipped at Amazon.

For what you need, load the cheapest bullet you can find. For Bullseye, a swaged SWC, 185 or 200 gr, will shoot as well as the gun can. The Berry 200 gr plated SWC shoots very well, but the bullets listed above will shoot a 100-10X on demand if the gun is up to it and if the shooter can do his part.

I load this bullet to 1.210" in 2013 production Springer 1911 RO. No issues.

R-P and Winnie seem to be the best brass. I don't load AMERC, S&B, RWS, some Fiocchi USA, or old style Federal 40 cal. Every 40 case I load goes through a Magma sizer. I have sufficient OCD to sort personal brass by headstamp. I prefer to load R-P brass. ALL Winnie and Remmie 40 cases are solid head.

Older Federal cases seem to be thinner at the case head, and gave a lot of problems. Newer hulls are marked with dots between headstamp brand and caliber, and are thicker near case head. I routinely discard older style hulls.

Having shot Bullseye since the 60's, I have gotten the best results ever with small primer Federal brass. My accurized Colt's Gold Cup delivers more consistent groups and more X's with this hull. Folks who shoot serious Bullseye, want a load and gun that will shoot a 100-10X on the Slow Fire stage on demand. Misses must be the shooter's fault, not the gun or ammo. Matched small primer brass is my key to success.

I have been around a long time, and have shot most brands. I recently acquired a 32" Blaser Luxus, and think it is the best of the lot. I sold five guns that the Blaser replaced. Skeet, Trap (including handicap), Sporting, Bunker. It was bought for Bunker, but has proved its mettle at the other disciplines.

I went to Accurate 2015 to solve this problem. It is dense enough to not get tossed out when the 650 indexes. Accuracy is superb.

Had the same problem with the same fix as 3gunnah

I do not have a bullet feeder or electric assist on my personal RL1050, but 100 rounds loaded in a leisurely manner in 3 minutes is about par. Quickly getting the bullet seated in the case is the key to running a progressive. I am not willing to run a progressive without a Powder Check, and will not pay the bucks for the bullet feeder that allows use of the Powder Check. I do small runs of 45 Colt's, 44 Mag, 357 Mag, 357 Sig, and 45 GAP on my 650. Also, I load prepped and primed 223, 308, and 30/06 brass on it. High volume 38Spl, 9X19, 40, and 45 ACP on the 1050. I can load 10 primer tubes while watching the boob tube, then go load 1000 rds in around 30 minutes, or less. Had the Dillon primer tube filler for commercial loading, but use the primer tubes at home. I have loaded millions of rounds on the 1050 and 650 in two commercial ventures. No comparison, buy the 1050 and don't look back. If the 1050 offered no speed advantage over the 650, I would still prefer it. Better ammo, period. BTW, if you don't pay attention to details, and learn your press, you will have issues with any progressive. Some folks cannot run them. Some folks cannot take their handgun apart to clean it.

My favored brass for big loads is R-P or Winchester. I use the Speer, Blazer, new FC (with the dots on the headstamp), and PMC for 180 gr 800 fps plate rack loads in my G35 and G24. I do not use anything else. There is not enough Starline around to have a batch, so I throw it in with practice brass. I do volunteer work at a big range, and am rewarded monthly with several buckets of brass. Everything goes through a Magma Case Master.

I am happy with the Casemaster. It is another step, tumbling, lubing, sizing, tumbling to remove lube, but is no big deal. I no longer commercially load, so now I just have to feed MY guns. The 40 has replaced the 45 as my favorite handgun round.

I ordered a Case Pro Almost a year ago, and had given up on it. Ordered a Case Master, got it promptly, and have sized a barrel of 40 cal brass with zero issues. Any how, got the Case Pro in today, and am wondering if it is enough of an improvement to sell it and keep the Magma product, or sell the Case Master and swap over to the Case Pro. I have found the Case Master likes lubed brass, which adds a step to the loading process. I closed the commercial loading business, so am loading for myself once again. The 40 has become my favorite handgun caliber, and brass is very cheap. Any one here who has used them both?

I recently bought a new large Dillon tumbler. It has the new style motor. After running it for three hours tonight, I noticed heat coming off the tumbler and discovered the motor was extremely hot to the touch, to the point of not being able to hold a hand on it for over a second or so. My old style tumbler's motor only gets warm to the touch. It is a defective motor, or does the new style run really hot? I normally set the tumblers on a timer and let them run in a shed. I don't want to burn it down. Can anyone shed light on this? I have had the new tumbler for about two months, and due to cold weather, have not noticed this before.