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Burris Tac30 1-4


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I finally had a chance to get mine mounted. It's replacing a Millett DMS. So far, I really like it. Its shorter in length, feels lighter and the FOV is more favorable than the DMS. I also find that it is easier for me to find the "sweet spot" for eye relief with the TAC30, compared to my DMS. hav not had the chance to sight it in though. Hopefully I will by next week.

How does the glass clarity compare to the dms?

I understand the eye relief being more flexible, but how about the exit pupil when compared to the dms? Meaning, can you have a sloppier cheekweld than you could with the dms? I know it isn't an eotech/aimpoint but just wondering how critical cheekweld is when compared with the dms.

I have a Primary Arms 1-4x with a DMS cat tail (they use the same body) and wondering if the Tac30 is gonna be a true upgrade or a so so one (not including illumination) and whether or not I should look at the higher end PST/XTR/TR24 optics.

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I finally had a chance to get mine mounted. It's replacing a Millett DMS. So far, I really like it. Its shorter in length, feels lighter and the FOV is more favorable than the DMS. I also find that it is easier for me to find the "sweet spot" for eye relief with the TAC30, compared to my DMS. hav not had the chance to sight it in though. Hopefully I will by next week.

How does the glass clarity compare to the dms?

I understand the eye relief being more flexible, but how about the exit pupil when compared to the dms? Meaning, can you have a sloppier cheekweld than you could with the dms? I know it isn't an eotech/aimpoint but just wondering how critical cheekweld is when compared with the dms.

I have a Primary Arms 1-4x with a DMS cat tail (they use the same body) and wondering if the Tac30 is gonna be a true upgrade or a so so one (not including illumination) and whether or not I should look at the higher end PST/XTR/TR24 optics.

I went from a DMS to the TAC30 and it is worlds apart. The FOV is much larger and you do not need a perfect cheekweld to pick up the reticle. I found the DMS to be very sensitive to a consistent cheek weld. The clarity of the glass is a huge improvement too. If the Vortex PST had been available I would have bought it, but I'm glad I found this first. My opinion is buy it and don't look back. If you don't like it, you will have no trouble selling it and buying the Vortex. Hell, I might buy it from you as a backup......for a used price of course. ;)

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Picked up my AR last Wednesday!!! Scope came yesterday. The scope is very nice. Lighter than I expected it to be. I hope to get it mounted tomorrow. I'm not sure when I'll be able to zero the rifle. What programs do you suggest using to determine the drop of the bullet and matching it to the reticle, and how does this work specifically? I'm very new so forgive my ignorance. Once it gets mounted pictures will be up. The info on here is fantastic. Unfortunately I find myself reading the forum instead of studying, sometimes you need a break from graduate school. Well back to the books.

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NEW PROMO CODES IN FOR MIDWAY!!!! For those who are looking at getting one of these check out these codes. 10111 saves $10.00 off a $100.00 purchase, 20111 saves $20.00 off a $200.00 purchase, 30111 saves $30.00 on $300.00 purchase. FYI. I'm not trying to promote any company, just get people the best deals.

Murch

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Picked up my AR last Wednesday!!! Scope came yesterday. The scope is very nice. Lighter than I expected it to be. I hope to get it mounted tomorrow. I'm not sure when I'll be able to zero the rifle. What programs do you suggest using to determine the drop of the bullet and matching it to the reticle, and how does this work specifically? I'm very new so forgive my ignorance. Once it gets mounted pictures will be up. The info on here is fantastic. Unfortunately I find myself reading the forum instead of studying, sometimes you need a break from graduate school. Well back to the books.

Here is a link to the online one I used....

you need to enter specifics about your set up, your load, etc... Do you have a chrono, or one that you can borrow? You need to enter things such as FPS, bullet coefficient, sight height, etc... The program then estimates your bullets trajectory. Next you take the dimensions from the reticle and match them to the table to find out where your bullet should be going... Finally go to a range and verify... (if you do not have a chrono, look up manufacturer specs for your load and run the tables in 50 fps increments for 200 or 300 fps in each direction, then hit the range to verify which one is correct). Once you know what works, write it down for reference....

The reticle was close to my load on shots out to 300ish. Then it was iffy. After applying the program (this was my first time so I am not 100 percent sure I did everything right) I think that the "dots" are closer to 0 -180-260-340-420-500 with my 69gr load. (that is with a 100 yard zero). I ran the numbers with a 200 and a 300 yard zero, but liked the 100 yard zero the best. (I run a 200 yard zero on my iron sights... ) If I was to bump my load up closer to maximum, I could get a lot closer to what is listed on the reticle. However, I might just continue and use a 12 o'clock hold on far targets...

Experts: If I am wrong please chime in and help :cheers:

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The program I use is the same one HS101 used. Use the MOA numbers to see where the theoretical drop (from the program) corresponds to the MOA of the dots. Then get ye out to the range to confirm those exact holds.

When you go to the range, you will need to know the environemental conditions. I shoot a group at each distance, on a paper target twice. I use an aiming dot at the top of the A zone. I shoot near to far all at once, like I am shooting a stage. Then far to near all at once. This lets you know if you have issues with POI drift on a warm barrel. Collect all of the data and get ye back on the computer and confirm your holds, Laptop at the range is REALLY nice. The first time might take a full day. After you have done it once, you should be able to repeat in a few hours.

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I just sold off my EOtech XPS and Troy irons since they just collect dust.

Took everyone's advice and ordered the Tac 30. Using the 30 dollar off code, it's a bargain either way. If something comes along better after SHOT, I don't see any problems selling it.

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They must have designed this scope and reticle with a certain bullet/velocity/barrel combo in mind. Any info on what Burris recommends? I didn't find anything on their site.

Has anyone found any combo that works perfectly out of the box?

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They must have designed this scope and reticle with a certain bullet/velocity/barrel combo in mind. Any info on what Burris recommends? I didn't find anything on their site.

Has anyone found any combo that works perfectly out of the box?

It's based on a 62 grain bullet, but I can't recall the velocity off hand.

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They must have designed this scope and reticle with a certain bullet/velocity/barrel combo in mind. Any info on what Burris recommends? I didn't find anything on their site.

Has anyone found any combo that works perfectly out of the box?

It's based on a 62 grain bullet, but I can't recall the velocity off hand.

based on the reticule dimensions and your ballistics you can figure it out for any cartridge. 5 or 10 yards difference is not that critical.

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A true 1x power Illuminted scope with a BDC for around $300. U bet. Hell I've been thinking of getting one to try to see if it's better then my tr24-g. But I'm not sure I really want to know if it's better, considering the accupoint was a $700+ scope :/

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This Burris, like many of the FFIIs, is made in the Philippines.

And an Ipod is made in China. I don't think quality can be judged based solely on where something is assembled anymore. But, if you're looking to buy American, I applaud your efforts! :)

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Just got mine and mounted it. WOW.

I am glad I took a local 3 gunner's advice and got this over the TR24G which I was absolutely set on buying.

For the money (270.00 before shipping, 30.00 off from midway) I don't see how this can be beat. Definitely an upgrade from the Millet DMS-1, for not that much more money.

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Just got mine and mounted it. WOW.

Glad you like it. The article with a bit of detail, is in the current issue of Front Sight. About the only scope I did not get my hands for direct comparison was a Vortex 1-4 PST, so I can't answer that $200 question for you.

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Sorry, gotta show her off!

Since I know I will get asked by those outside of CA, the kydex grip wrap is used in order to meet the definition of not having a pistol grip.

As long as I have no pistol grip, a pinned or fixed stock, no flash hider, and no verticle grip, I can lawfully use legally acquired large capacity (they mean...standard?) magazines and not have to deal with magazine release locking mechanisms. It can't have any "evil assault features." Thus why we call these "featureless" rifles, here in the great state of CA.

post-27031-092189300 1295131983_thumb.jp

Edited by JaeOne3345
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Just got mine and mounted it. WOW.

Glad you like it. The article with a bit of detail, is in the current issue of Front Sight. About the only scope I did not get my hands for direct comparison was a Vortex 1-4 PST, so I can't answer that $200 question for you.

Definitely. Thanks for your reviews and recommendations as well. I keep playing with it around the house. Going to the range pronto tomorrow to sight it in.

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Sorry, gotta show her off!

Since I know I will get asked by those outside of CA, the kydex grip wrap is used in order to meet the definition of not having a pistol grip.

As long as I have no pistol grip, a pinned or fixed stock, no flash hider, and no verticle grip, I can lawfully use legally acquired large capacity (they mean...standard?) magazines and not have to deal with magazine release locking mechanisms. It can't have any "evil assault features." Thus why we call these "featureless" rifles, here in the great state of CA.

Sweet gun. If you are in the LA area come give it a run at Piru tomorrow! http://www.x3multigun.com/

Edited by aheadofthecurve
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