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What's your Crimp measurements? (.45ACP)


hankfan79

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I recently began reloading .45ACP after reloading 9mm for years. I am curious as to how many shooters actually measure their crimp. I was told by one shooter that he thought crimp measurement was just as important as the rest.

What's your crimp measurements??

I am using a 230gr LRN

3.9 clays w/1.250 OAL

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I recently began reloading .45ACP after reloading 9mm for years. I am curious as to how many shooters actually measure their crimp. I was told by one shooter that he thought crimp measurement was just as important as the rest.

What's your crimp measurements??

I am using a 230gr LRN

3.9 clays w/1.250 OAL

i've been trying to get 230gr bear creek LRN load to shoot concomitantly..

i still haven't figured out my stand on crimp.. some people don't us measure the case mouth diameter..

they just crimp the case mouth on until the flare is removed (around .472 but it varies), this is also refereed as not crimping at all by some folks..

i've also heard some people go as far as .465 but must people say that's to much and that it will affect head spacing...

currently i crimp .469 which seem to be a pretty common amount..

i think this is one of those questions that doesn't have a definitive answer...

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I shoot 230 lead round nose. OAL is 1.230. Powder is 3.8 to 3.9 of clays. Primer is Winchester. I actually measure the crimp when I set up the press with a micrometer. For lead, I work the crimp to .470 to .4705. The final crimp really depends on the overall length of the brass. It does vary if you do not trim (and who trims .45 brass? not me). I also check the crimp diameter in a few places right at the very edge. It typcially will vary up to .0005". Remember I am using a micrometer.

With that said, I found out that .472 had a slight inconistant feeding with lead bullets. I also found out that I loss accuracacy with a tighter crimp of .467 to .468". Every barrel is different and the person's ability to accurately measure may make a difference.

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Here are a couple of things to chew on....

All we are doing with the crimp is removing the bell for feed reliability with the taper crimp. Your barrel will tell you how much crimp to apply. In most 1911 barrels a crimp of .469 - 471 will work just fine. You want the loaded round to drop in and out smoothly and reliably.

When I load my .45, I load it for Revos and for autos. I end up crimping down to .469 or so to make sure that I have no sharp edge that will keep the case from hanging up when getting dropped into the cylinder on a reload. You should run your finger across the crimp and not have a sharp edge.....

Another thing to consider when using plated bullets......

I have found when loading the Berrys 185 HBRN bullets that more crimp is better.....I got best accuracy at 25yds with a crimp of .462 vs. the normal .468-9. This is with a Dillon Taper crimp, and don't recommend the Lee FCDie with plated bullets.

Hope this is helpful,

DougC

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I am shooting a local match today with a Lonewolf barrel. I have had bad results with tight chambers before. I hope they have fixed this problem since then. I'll let you know how it works out in BOTH barrels (Glock and LWD).

230LRN

3.8gr Clays

1.250 OAL

.470 Crimp

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I got .470 more than a few times by using the "felt and looks right" method.

Hope it works out. Can anyone confirm a rumor I heard about too tight of a crimp will affect accuracy as in tumbling.

I use the looks and felts right methed :roflol: I know to tight a crimp will screw a plated bullet real easy. makes them tumble and key hole. Just my two cents worth.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Got a question about S&W 625 and how much crimp needed to limit bullet jump. Been reloading for many years, and know a lot of factors comes into play here. I know all centerfire cartridges have some jump in healthy calibers, but when I shoot major in IPSC with 230 plated bullets, they jump as much as 20/1000 forward. I tried pretty much every combination possible in relation to crimp, bullet/die brand, and getting a little frustrated over this problem. Whats the soloution ???

Jess Christensen

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.470 and a trip through the case gage to be sure. I thought i was at .470 last year but some problems crept up on me somehow and more a couple rounds found their way to .475-.476. Jam-town. At the Sectional match last year. :angry2: long story short, every round for a match goes through the case gage now.

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Hi Guys,

Got a question about S&W 625 and how much crimp needed to limit bullet jump. Been reloading for many years, and know a lot of factors comes into play here. I know all centerfire cartridges have some jump in healthy calibers, but when I shoot major in IPSC with 230 plated bullets, they jump as much as 20/1000 forward. I tried pretty much every combination possible in relation to crimp, bullet/die brand, and getting a little frustrated over this problem. Whats the soloution ???

Jess Christensen

If your ammo will only be used in the 625 you are better off roll crimping them. All a taper crimp does is prevent the bullet from being pushed back in to the case during a semi-autos feeding cycle. Taper crimps won't prevent the bullet from moving forward (well, maybe only a tiny bit). Perhaps a Redding Profile crimp would work for you.

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I got .470 more than a few times by using the "felt and looks right" method.

Hope it works out. Can anyone confirm a rumor I heard about too tight of a crimp will affect accuracy as in tumbling.

Not a rumor. Over crimping compresses the case, which in turn compresses the bullet. Lead bullets don't spring back, but remain at the smaller size. This causes leading because of poor bullet fit which can also can cause tumbling. I adjust my taper crimp die to remove the flare from the case, then I give it about 1/2 turn and lock it into place.

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Thanks Anachronism,

However, I spoke with a lot of other revolver IPSC shooters using 625's, and they told me not to use a roll crimp on plated bullets which doesn't have any crimp groove, since the plated jacket could seperate from the bullet and get stuck in the bore. What a shame no one makes a RN 45 Colt plated bullet w/crimp groove.

My fear is always, that one day a bullet will jump out and block the cylinder from turning. Try to never use any bullets from the clip, if I only shoot 4 or 5 rds. on a stage. I save them for practice later. One weird thing though, is that it don't seem to affect accuracy.

I can't be the only one with this problem ??? Or maybe I should just go back to the green Bayoubullet, which act like lead bullets, but without smoke etc. Thanks for any further suggestions guys.

Jess Christensen

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Hi Jess,

I use the taper crimp, and increase the crimp until there is no sharp ledge or edge on the case mouth. I then pull the bullet and make sure there is a faint line into the jacket. Not a deformation, but a light line I can see. This makes sure I get even burn rate and does not affect accuracy.

This is usually around .468-9, but depends if you are using mixed brass. Some cases, like CBC, are thicker....

By using this method, I have not noticed the bullets moving or pulling out of the case yet.

Hope all is well with you,

DougC

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