Emerson

In my experience Dillon has the best customer service of any company in the entire shooting industry, including an extremely knowledgeable staff of customer service reps.

It has been my experience that the RL 1050's run better than the Super 1050's. The RL's do index faster so if you are loading a case full of powder it is more likely to slosh out if you load too fast........at least in my experience.

1050 - Toolhead only - 3 minutes Complete caliber change including shell-plate, cleaning & tuning - 25 minutes. I have a separate toolhead and powder measure for every caliber. If I had to set-up the dies and powder measure add another 10-15 minutes. I am very particular about my set-ups so I take my time. By taking a few minutes longer to do the set-up correctly you can count on the machine running properly when you begin loading.

How long it takes to change the caliber? 3 hours

Not a Dillon but this is my machine running 4,500 rds / hour. Doesn't even make your arm tired. On average I will get 3,000 rds / hour

THIS is the correct answer. If you crank out 6,000 rds in 8 hours on a 1050 you are ahead of 99.99% of the rest of the world. That works out to around 750/hr net. However most folks don't seem to load in those types of quantities.

I am pretty meticulous when I make a caliber change and it takes me about 25 minutes to do a caliber change if I have to change the shellplate. It may take me another 10 minutes to tune the press to run the way I want it to run but then you're home free and running 1000 rds / hour. If you only plan on 9mm and .223 you can probably make the change without fooling with the swage rod, but you will have to replace the shellplate. I would suggest trimming .223 cases on a single stage press. Remove the cam follower from the toolhead and don't fool with the primer arm adjustment. Nothing needs to come off the primer arm to perform a caliber change.

That load does fill the case almost up, but I have ran that same load on my 1050 with little powder spillage. However as has been mentioned, the 1050 needs a smooth consistent stroke.

You just proved my point There is nothing wrong with the gear. But the consistence of it being adjusted correctly from factory is lacking. If you have experience and like mechanics and stuff there is nog big issue. But if you don't then But should you then buy a 1050 in the fist place. In my opinion....NO My RL 1050 has been flawless from day 1. My Super 1050 required some tuning to get it to run flawlessly, but we are currently running around 10,000 rounds a week on it with no problem.

I've loaded over 150,000 rds on my 1050s (2) in the last 8 months. Yes, it took me a while to get the priming system to work flawlessly, but as Brian has indicated, one of the keys is getting the primer slide to stop exactly under the priming tube. On my Super 1050 the slide went waaay too far back. I actually had to machine off about .020" from the cylinder shaped bushing that stops the slides rearward travel. The other is adjusting the little white gadget so that you have just the right amount of clearance between it and the case. After that, you're home free.

Doug hit the nail on the head. I would not tumble rifle rounds indefinitely, but i doubt it would make much difference with pistol rounds. Factory ammunition is tumbled and mostly works pretty well.

Bulletworks - great bullets at a great price. www.bulletworks.com Jim and Artie are the nicest folks you will ever do business with.

Thus far I have identified 4 seperate headstamps of .45 ACP brass that contain small primers: CCI Blazer Brass Win NT Fiocchi Federal (Wally World stuff in maroon boxes) So far I've collected about 2/3 of a 3 gallon bucket full of the stuff.

I always use case lube, even on my 1050's. Takes most of the work out of it.

You're welcome. Are you still having problems crushing primers?