Emerson

In my experience Dillon has the best customer service of any company in the entire shooting industry, including an extremely knowledgeable staff of customer service reps.

It has been my experience that the RL 1050's run better than the Super 1050's. The RL's do index faster so if you are loading a case full of powder it is more likely to slosh out if you load too fast........at least in my experience.

1050 - Toolhead only - 3 minutes Complete caliber change including shell-plate, cleaning & tuning - 25 minutes. I have a separate toolhead and powder measure for every caliber. If I had to set-up the dies and powder measure add another 10-15 minutes. I am very particular about my set-ups so I take my time. By taking a few minutes longer to do the set-up correctly you can count on the machine running properly when you begin loading.

How long it takes to change the caliber? 3 hours

Not a Dillon but this is my machine running 4,500 rds / hour. Doesn't even make your arm tired. On average I will get 3,000 rds / hour

THIS is the correct answer. If you crank out 6,000 rds in 8 hours on a 1050 you are ahead of 99.99% of the rest of the world. That works out to around 750/hr net. However most folks don't seem to load in those types of quantities.

I am pretty meticulous when I make a caliber change and it takes me about 25 minutes to do a caliber change if I have to change the shellplate. It may take me another 10 minutes to tune the press to run the way I want it to run but then you're home free and running 1000 rds / hour. If you only plan on 9mm and .223 you can probably make the change without fooling with the swage rod, but you will have to replace the shellplate. I would suggest trimming .223 cases on a single stage press. Remove the cam follower from the toolhead and don't fool with the primer arm adjustment. Nothing needs to come off the primer arm to perform a caliber change.

That load does fill the case almost up, but I have ran that same load on my 1050 with little powder spillage. However as has been mentioned, the 1050 needs a smooth consistent stroke.

You just proved my point There is nothing wrong with the gear. But the consistence of it being adjusted correctly from factory is lacking. If you have experience and like mechanics and stuff there is nog big issue. But if you don't then But should you then buy a 1050 in the fist place. In my opinion....NO My RL 1050 has been flawless from day 1. My Super 1050 required some tuning to get it to run flawlessly, but we are currently running around 10,000 rounds a week on it with no problem.

I've loaded over 150,000 rds on my 1050s (2) in the last 8 months. Yes, it took me a while to get the priming system to work flawlessly, but as Brian has indicated, one of the keys is getting the primer slide to stop exactly under the priming tube. On my Super 1050 the slide went waaay too far back. I actually had to machine off about .020" from the cylinder shaped bushing that stops the slides rearward travel. The other is adjusting the little white gadget so that you have just the right amount of clearance between it and the case. After that, you're home free.

Doug hit the nail on the head. I would not tumble rifle rounds indefinitely, but i doubt it would make much difference with pistol rounds. Factory ammunition is tumbled and mostly works pretty well.

Bulletworks - great bullets at a great price. www.bulletworks.com Jim and Artie are the nicest folks you will ever do business with.

Thus far I have identified 4 seperate headstamps of .45 ACP brass that contain small primers: CCI Blazer Brass Win NT Fiocchi Federal (Wally World stuff in maroon boxes) So far I've collected about 2/3 of a 3 gallon bucket full of the stuff.

I always use case lube, even on my 1050's. Takes most of the work out of it.

You're welcome. Are you still having problems crushing primers?

It is perfectly normal for the slide actuating lever to push the slide in a bit too far. The rod on the toolhead is what provides the alignment for the slide / primer punch.

I've never ran a 650 so I can't comment on their capabilities, but I will say that with a 1050 that is properly tuned you can turn out extremely good ammunition at 1000 rds / hr. The primer pocket swage and priming on the downstroke are also incredibly important to me.

The only time I've ever blown a primer it was caused by a ringer. When it occurred it simply blew a little fireball up through the case..........and scared the crap out of me. The dog doesn't like to hang around anymore while I'm loading, must've scared him too. There have been a number of times when I've had a primer go in sideways or get crunched by the slide, but I've never had one go off as a result. I only use CCI primers due to their harder cup. Whether that has prevented an issue like this I can't say, but it seems that in most cases when I hear about this it is with primers which have softer cups.

When I had this problem it was because the little delrin piece that holds the case into the shellplate was too tight, not allowing the case to "float" a bit so that the primer would be properly aligned with the primer pocket. It's one of those "Goldilocks" type adjustments. Not too tight, not too loose..........just right. I set mine with a feeler gauge so that it has the same clearance regardless of which caliber I'm running. .008" - .009" seems to be the sweet spot.

I've found Promo to be extremely dirty. I'm sure it could be used without any problems......other than the filthy residue it leaves behind.

I load 5.4gr of HP-38(231) with a Precision Delta 230 FMJ.

I load to 1.250" with 4.5gr of Titegroup or 5.4gr of HP-38.

I have recently encountered some brass that is headstamped CBC. It is manufactured in Brazil and I discard the brass as soon as I discover it. Other than that and Amerc I've had no problems with brass, but beware the stuff that has small primer pockets. Namely Federal NT, Winchester NT, and lately it has been showing up in Fiocchi, CCI Blazer brass, and now Federal. As for powders, I like Titegroup and HP-38/WW231 for both jacketed and cast bullets.

I've owned 3 different compact 1911's, all in .45 ACP, and I had pretty much the same problem with all of them. They shoot fine and carry great, but it takes a lot of spring changes to keep them running.

I had a chance to handle one of the Springfield RO's a couple of weeks ago. That is definitely the one I would choose. Good quality from a company who knows how to build 1911's.