New Glock Barrel or U-Die

[Jman]

It seems to me (and I'm still a newbie looking for the range and all that) that buying a new bbl with a tighter chamber would CREATE a situation where you would need the new die.

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that

[38SuperDub]

BS you don't know what your getting into! This is addictive! I got like. Almost 100 sets of 10 different loads to test this weekend and all my wife says is I don't ever come out of THE LAB! We are in the midst on buying a house and we got stuff packed except my LAB! Lol... What ever you decide to get and load on you will love it! See you in RELOADERS REHAB! Lol ...

I have a couple things going for me - the first is having no wife - being single I can do what I want for how long I want when I want :-). The 2nd is I work from home - so I can make a few calls - reload 100 rds - make a few calls - reload 100 rds.

And yes I think I know what I am getting into and I LIKE IT.....

[38SuperDub]

Yea I think the aftermarket barrel is also more for the option of shooting lead - making this a LOT cheaper. From what I have figured it takes it down about 5 cents a round going from Montana Gold to Lead bullets - it will take no time to recoup the cost of the barrel at that rate.

I have yet to start reloading so I am just trying to get my head wrapped around the best technique and habit - if I switch to say an STI in the future I will have to be in the habit of resizing all my brass because I'd be willing to be about 75% of the brass at ranges after matches are from Glocks.

Just want to start off right.

[Sarge]

Yea I think the aftermarket barrel is also more for the option of shooting lead - making this a LOT cheaper. From what I have figured it takes it down about 5 cents a round going from Montana Gold to Lead bullets - it will take no time to recoup the cost of the barrel at that rate.

I have yet to start reloading so I am just trying to get my head wrapped around the best technique and habit - if I switch to say an STI in the future I will have to be in the habit of resizing all my brass because I'd be willing to be about 75% of the brass at ranges after matches are from Glocks.

Just want to start off right.

You are doing good! Research, research, research!

[Sarge]

GRX Die at Sinclair INTL - 33.95 - Single Stage Lee Press - 27.99 at midway usa -

I have seen Storm Lake barrel's in the 150's and Lone Wolf in the 100's having talked to them they both claim they are fully supported....

Thanks. If they are indeed fully supported, and I was shooting a 40 Glock, I'd be installing one of those barrels, so I could forget the GRx/Udie ordeal.

be

Unless you use range pickup brass, of course.

[benos]

It seems to me (and I'm still a newbie looking for the range and all that) that buying a new bbl with a tighter chamber would CREATE a situation where you would need the new die.

Not if you only load brass that was first fired in that chamber.

be

[Rolex]

When I reloaded for my 34 and 35- I would size twice!

Dillon in station 1, and Udie in station 3. I know

twice as much work- But the ammo always worked for me.

O and one shot or Dillon lube also.

[FLSlim]

A mixed bag, but everyone provided sound advice. As with so much about reloading, once you get past the basics and safety practices, I think there is a lot that can fall into the "I like to do it this way" category. You've been doing your research and asking questions (always a good start and come back to on occasion!), so once you decide you have a good grasp on the topic, just decide what will work best for you and your budget. Geaux get 'em.

[sauza45]

I would go with the GRx. I have one and dont even chamber check my rounds anymore. Also when you need more brass you can buy once fired from anyone and just run

the brass through the GRx and be good to go.

[norbs007]

I use an SDB, and run a Udie on a little single stage for both 9, and 40. I just like the ability to really look at my brass. I inspect it before and after I run it through, and cull out the bad, or iffy ones. So my extra time is not a bad thing.

I thought I was the only crazy one doing this After awhile I easily catch the NT brass from the feel of how the primers pop out. I normally do this while watching TV too and can go through 400 to 500 pieces a movie. it's like my CasePro on the cheap. So, I would say no to a new barrel and put the money on bullets.

[38SuperDub]

The other big perk to the new barrel is the fact that you can shoot lead - making the price per round drop drastically....

[JimmyZip]

The other big perk to the new barrel is the fact that you can shoot lead - making the price per round drop drastically....

I get just as much moly residue running a Barsto barrel in my BHP as my stock G17. Actually, more.

[MARKAVELI]

The other big perk to the new barrel is the fact that you can shoot lead - making the price per round drop drastically....

I get just as much moly residue running a Barsto barrel in my BHP as my stock G17. Actually, more.

Is it a pain to clean the Molly out of your Barsto?

[38SuperDub]

I had a friend reccomend Apple Cider and Vinegar - plug up the barrel and let it sit in there and BAM it is all clean....any thoughts on this?

[gunsablazin]

Here is what I do: I shoot a Glock 35 and use a Lone Wolf barrel for shooting reloaded ammo. The chamber has much more support than than the stock barrel, brass from the Lone wolf will drop all the way into my chamber check gauge, brass from the stock barrel will only go in about a third of the way. By using the after market barrel the brass is not being worked as much during the sizing step and should have a much longer life, I shoot reduced power loads for IDPA, and treat the brass like it was .45ACP, and shoot it until it splits. The extra cost of the barrel is relatively cheap insurance against a case failure, which could damage your pistol. That's my 2 cents.

[JimmyZip]

The other big perk to the new barrel is the fact that you can shoot lead - making the price per round drop drastically....

I get just as much moly residue running a Barsto barrel in my BHP as my stock G17. Actually, more.

Is it a pain to clean the Molly out of your Barsto?

No. I clean both with the 50/50 blend of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. 15 minutes,run a nylon bore brush through about a dozen times, no more no less. I rinse them very well, and then spray them with water displacement junk, and oil them. You can see the machining marks in newer barrels cleaned this way. If you leave your barrel in longer than that you run the risk of getting pitting that will break your heart. Been cleaning barrels this way for going on three years, and have found it to be great if you shoot moly coated bullets.

I was just saying that my Glock barrel shooting 130gr BBI, over 3.7 Solo 1000 picks up less residue than my Barsto barrel, that's all. I love Barsto barrels, just haven't found them to be the answer to the problem of moly residue. I probably would have purchased one for my G17 after hearing of the issues people were having with leading in stock Glock barrels. Instead I thought I'd just run the stock barrel with my newer Solo powder, and haven't had any problems as far leading or moly residue. I usually clean after about 1K to 1.5K currently, and it is not a chore.

JZ

[MARKAVELI]

@JZip, when running lead through your Barsto, do you clean the lead out of it like you would Molly bullets? And is cleaning lead out of your barsto, is that a "chore?"

[BillR1]

Here is what I do: I shoot a Glock 35 and use a Lone Wolf barrel for shooting reloaded ammo. The chamber has much more support than than the stock barrel, brass from the Lone wolf will drop all the way into my chamber check gauge, brass from the stock barrel will only go in about a third of the way. By using the after market barrel the brass is not being worked as much during the sizing step and should have a much longer life, I shoot reduced power loads for IDPA, and treat the brass like it was .45ACP, and shoot it until it splits. The extra cost of the barrel is relatively cheap insurance against a case failure, which could damage your pistol. That's my 2 cents.

This! ^^

[brettk]

WE have a G23 with a stormlake barrel and still gets a little bulge. We take the g-rx die and stick about two foot of 3/4 braided vinyl hose you can get at the hardware store over top of the die and run it into a box. I can fix around 1500 an hour using one shot or unique for lube. Brett

[splashdown]

If you decide to go the G-Rx die route, go with the carbide version with the uber cool push rod. I load on a SDB and the G-Rx has solved many problems. I use the cheap $25 Lee press and process all my clean brass first, then load up the ammo in the SDB.

[38SuperDub]

I only see one version on Redding's website as well as at Sinclair Intl?!?!

[MARKAVELI]

I only see one version on Redding's website as well as at Sinclair Intl?!?!

Try Cabela's and Midwayusa.com 69.95 guessing!

Edited August 24, 2010 by MARKAVELI

[MARKAVELI]

There are two versions;non-carbrid 36.99 product #358543 & the latest carbrid 69.99 prod.#231187. The ,non carbrid was said if the die got scratched inside the die, it would scratch the brass. I lokked in the midwayusa web site.

[Sarge]

To add to the confusion, since my last visit here I talked with a well seasoned .40 loader who has tried GRX and Udie. He recommends the Udie. He said the GRX is great but it is an extra step that is just not needed since the Udie did the job just as well.

[DougCarden]

Another option is to buy a standard Lee Sizing die for .40/10mm, and see if that sizes the brass down to where it will gauge just fine in match barrels.....Something cheap to try before dropping a lot of cash..

DougC