best brass for 625?

[twister]

I need to buy some brass for my 625, and would like to know which is best? Thanks for your help, Dave

[Bubber]

Dave, The 625 and most moonclips for it are very forgiving so the best brass is the cheapest you can get. Unless you are planning on going with small pistol primers stay away for the NT (non Toxic)stamped brass, a couple of the ammo manufactureres make it. And of course the steel or aluminum stuff. I don't shoot the 45 stuff so my opinions may not count for much. later rdd

[Carmoney]

I use mixed .45 ACP brass that I've collected over the last 23 years. I'm certain that somewhere in my pile is some of the original brass from the factory ammo I bought when I first started competitive shooting in 1987!

As long as the chambers are correctly dimensioned (which can be a problem on 625-2s, some early 625-3s, and many 625-8s), S&W .45 ACP wheelguns are very forgiving when it comes to brass and moonclips.

There should be no need for special brass. You might as well buy whatever is cheapest.

[hopalong]

AVOID brass with the headstamp

AMERC

and

S&B

Both have primer pocket issues and the AMERC is a weird alloy that doesn't resize very good.

Other than what Carmoney mentioned with the NT brass with Small primer pockets, just pick up what you can get.

HOPALONG

[twister]

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll look for the best deal, Thanks, Dave

[Craigar45]

If you have a tuned 625 and need to crush the primers, you will have a tiny bit more to consider... I load on a 550 and can crush primers flat, but I have to separate out RP and S&B... These two will allow me to seat the primer too deep- the firing pin just barely taps it. Otherwise, mixed brass it is.

C

[Bwana Six-Gun]

I have been using a 625 for the last 10 years. Agree with Sam and Mike. I would add avoid TZZ and IMI and S & B. I have found winchester and Remington to be the best.

[twister]

Craigar45,I'm loading on a 550 also, and I'm having a hard time trying to crush the primer. I've tried double stroking the handle,and it seems the primer still has rounded edges. I tried loading some Starline brass, and the primer seems to set deeper in it. I'll try some of those at the range tomorrow. Thanks for the help, Dave

[John Z Sr]

I've found that Federal and Remington work the best for me. I single stage deprime/resize and then clean the primer pockets on an RCBS case mate machine. Then hand prime with Federal large pistol in a "Lee" handprimer. I know this sounds like alot of extra work that may be (and probably is) unnecessary, but after loading on my 550 like I've done over 350,000 times, I had 12 light hits in a match (yes the gun has been tuned) and from that day forward, my extra efforts have yielded over 11,000 rounds with no misfires. To me the sorting of brass and extra work pay off in function and peace of mind. I still load them on my 550, but the size die is removed on station 1. Best of luck

[Boats]

You get your brass back with moonclip & easy to run same headstamp in 625's I took a bulk box of range brass and separated one lot of Winchester another of R-P Run one of my 625's with one 2nd with the other. Loads for the two guns are a bit different and seperate headstamps makes sure I don't make mistakes.

Is it important ? probably not however if it's possible to be consistent without too much trouble might as well. Buying new I would go with a major manufacturer, 625's with clips are so easy on brass no sense in going cheap.

Boats

[DougCarden]

The only potential you will have with .45 brass is brass rims that are so beat up that you can't read the headstamp from getting pounded into an auto chamber. This brass with bent moonclips will give you fits.

If you start with decent brass and run it in the 625, it should last years. Just take care to make sure your moons stay staight.

Good luck,

DougC

[DWFAN]

Does anyone here suggest .45 GAP brass for a good 625 load ?

[LPatterson]

I've found that Federal and Remington work the best for me. I single stage deprime/resize and then clean the primer pockets on an RCBS case mate machine. Then hand prime with Federal large pistol in a "Lee" handprimer. I know this sounds like alot of extra work that may be (and probably is) unnecessary, but after loading on my 550 like I've done over 350,000 times, I had 12 light hits in a match (yes the gun has been tuned) and from that day forward, my extra efforts have yielded over 11,000 rounds with no misfires. To me the sorting of brass and extra work pay off in function and peace of mind. I still load them on my 550, but the size die is removed on station 1. Best of luck

I love meeting someone else with OCD. I have discovered that different brands of brass will give me different velocities the same as different brands of brass will fit in moon clips differently. To satisfy my OCD loads are developed in one lot of Starline brass and rechecked in a match lot of Starline. All cases are deprimed with a Lee 'U' die in a RCBS Rockchucker press. Primer pockets are cleaned and reprimed with Federal primers seated using a RCBS hand primer seating ~ .003 - .005 below flush. Powder measure tube has been spun in a drill and polished with 4 ought steel wool. Flare was adjusted so a moly bullet will fit inside the case mouth without shaving. Seated in a Redding Competition die and the flare removed in a Lee FCD, crimp .472 - .471. All cartridges checked in a Lyman case guage. Ranch Products SS moon clips filled using a M**nsetter hand tool. Knock on wood emoticon So far I have not had an ammo related problem. Broke an extended firing pin once.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

The absolute best brass for a 625 is FREE brass as long as the head stamp is not AMERC

[Carmoney]

The funniest revolver-related OCD issue are those who think you can load a moonclip "upside down."

[snertley]

Note to self: stop putting moonclips right side up.

I my self am a long standing brass whore. If its in the brass bag, its all good.

[20nickels]

Sorry I'm tardy to the party.

I must have every sort of large primed 45 ACP brass represented in my pile. I do not sort them and they all go bang every time. I'm using Fed 150's and priming on my LNL press. I have no doubt that my trigger pull is heavier than most tuned revolvers here, but it is far lighter than a stock 625.

[John Z Sr]

I've found that Federal and Remington work the best for me. I single stage deprime/resize and then clean the primer pockets on an RCBS case mate machine. Then hand prime with Federal large pistol in a "Lee" handprimer. I know this sounds like alot of extra work that may be (and probably is) unnecessary, but after loading on my 550 like I've done over 350,000 times, I had 12 light hits in a match (yes the gun has been tuned) and from that day forward, my extra efforts have yielded over 11,000 rounds with no misfires. To me the sorting of brass and extra work pay off in function and peace of mind. I still load them on my 550, but the size die is removed on station 1. Best of luck

I love meeting someone else with OCD. I have discovered that different brands of brass will give me different velocities the same as different brands of brass will fit in moon clips differently. To satisfy my OCD loads are developed in one lot of Starline brass and rechecked in a match lot of Starline. All cases are deprimed with a Lee 'U' die in a RCBS Rockchucker press. Primer pockets are cleaned and reprimed with Federal primers seated using a RCBS hand primer seating ~ .003 - .005 below flush. Powder measure tube has been spun in a drill and polished with 4 ought steel wool. Flare was adjusted so a moly bullet will fit inside the case mouth without shaving. Seated in a Redding Competition die and the flare removed in a Lee FCD, crimp .472 - .471. All cartridges checked in a Lyman case guage. Ranch Products SS moon clips filled using a M**nsetter hand tool. Knock on wood emoticon So far I have not had an ammo related problem. Broke an extended firing pin once.

Looks like you and I have WAY too much time on our hands, glad that I have a bunch reloaded, as I hear from the white house/senate/congress (intentionally not capitalized) the economy is BACK so my dead contracting business should be back to where it was during those awful 8 years that I was actually working and earning a decent living (sorry, had to vent)

[Team Amish 1]

The funniest revolver-related OCD issue are those who think you can load a moonclip "upside down."

I don't get it. How do you load a moonclip upside down? Got a pic'?

Anyways, most of my 625 brass is recovered CCI brass and then the stuff that rich shooters graciously leave behind for me.

Even with my tuned trigger I never had a problem, even with AMERC brass, as long as I use Fed. primers. Should I watch that more?

Edited February 18, 2010 by Team Amish 1

[jhgtyre]

The funniest revolver-related OCD issue are those who think you can load a moonclip "upside down."

I don't get it. How do you load a moonclip upside down? Got a pic'?

Anyways, most of my 625 brass is recovered CCI brass and then the stuff that rich shooters graciously leave behind for me.

Even with my tuned trigger I never had a problem, even with AMERC brass, as long as I use Fed. primers. Should I watch that more?

If you look at most clips one side is beveled/relieved on the edge and the other is flatter. Some people want them all facing the same way. There is probably some sort of voodoo involved in deciding which way is "right side up." I don't think Hearthco's have a "right side" as the one I am looking at looks the same on both sides.

-ld

[snertley]

Look closer.

[pskys2]

Several years ago I also ran into trouble with Federals Top Brass, I think that was the name. The recesses must have been over max on their dimensions as I could only load 4 rounds into a moon clip, the 5th was way too tight and the 6th would not go in at all. I actually ruined several moon clips before I realized it. I had 100 of them to try and ended up using them in the Auto at lost brass matches.

As stated the Amerc and S&B and any NT stuff aren't good either. If you weed out those then a few Top Brass won't matter.

Starline, RP, Winchester, Speer all good. If you buy a specific brand in 500/1000 lots stay away from Nickle Cases as they don't seem to hold up as well. Some will start peeling and they seem to split a bit quicker.

The only advantage of staying with one brand of brass is more consistency at the chronograph. And maybe keeping track of usage, though most of us use them til they crack. Some think you can get better accuracy, but I don't think most of us can see it.

The only other thing is to occassionally clean the primer pockets if you have a light action. As the buildup can affect primer strikes with real light actions. We're talking after maybe 20+ loadings though.

[TonyT]

I use mixed 45 ACP brass in my 625 and have never experienced a problem with two exceptions:

1) I toss alll the AMERC brass in a scrap container it's totally unusable for reloading.

2) You might experience some difficulty in seating primers in S&B brass.

Edited February 18, 2010 by TonyT

[LPatterson]

The funniest revolver-related OCD issue are those who think you can load a moonclip "upside down."

Are you making fun of my OCD, of course it is possible to put brass in a moonclip upside down. Brass should always be inserted in the moonclip so the rounded edges of the brass are facing away from the rim. This way the flattest part of the moonclip is next to the rim so as the firing pin goes forward it is a flat surface against a flat surface.

[jhgtyre]

Look closer.

I would have to take my contacts out or use a microscope!

All I know is I can turn in a perfectly mediocre reload without regard to bevel orientation.

Also, to try to stay on topic, any old brass other than the evil AMERC or S&B ran fine in my 625 before I foolishly sold the gun.

-ld