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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Craigar45

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 12/24/1980

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    Hood Canal, WA
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    Craig Richmond
  1. OT: Good looking cylinder release you got there!
  2. Old thread, I know, but I wanted to add something about "Running your program"... When you walk through a stage, you are writing your program. We are basically writing a script in our brains on how we want to handle the stage. On the walk through, we are doing our best to embed this info into our subconscious. Upon hearing the buzzer, as mentioned above, you start thinking. That is your conscious mind stepping in and squashing the plan in your subconscious. Our subconscious mind is pretty smart- it can handle multiple tasks all at once, versus our conscious mind, which can really only do one
  3. This is the hot tip... I would only add that you should use a *spent* primer. C
  4. If you have a tuned 625 and need to crush the primers, you will have a tiny bit more to consider... I load on a 550 and can crush primers flat, but I have to separate out RP and S&B... These two will allow me to seat the primer too deep- the firing pin just barely taps it. Otherwise, mixed brass it is. C
  5. I shot it today (in my revolver debut no less!), and it is pretty easy, but us revo guys have a steep disadvantage. Shoot the top 2, 3, 4, 1, reload, bottom 2, 3, 4, 1... Problem is sometimes it will stay balanced long enough for the reload, sometime it wont. It turned over during the reload on me today, but I just made it with twelve rounds total. You do have to get it done quickly though... C
  6. I load all my 308 on my 550. I do prep my brass on my Redding T7 first though. Size, deprime, trim with Giraud, then into the 550 it goes. Station 1: Size die backed way out. Just hits the neck a bit. Station 2: Dillon powder measure. Be sure to give it a good long pause at the bottom of the pull- there is a lot of powder to drop! Station 3: Redding competition seating die. Station 4: Redding crimp die (I think...) If you are really paranoid about accuracy, throw out the first three- I usually get a fractional difference in OAL and powder throw until there is a case in every station. B
  7. Meh. I say tacticool gimmick. Will they work? Yes. With aperture sights, our subconscious automatically centers the front sight inside the round rear. I think this will just add some distraction, and give up some accuracy. I am sure they are very nicely made. I like the engraved ranges on the flip-ups. That said, I certainly wouldn't put one on my rifle. C
  8. I've got one... It was apparently a limited run thing, but I couldn't say how many were produced. The only drawback I have discovered is the lack of aftermarket front sights. I think I will be milling up my own. C
  9. I can consistently get primers seated to .010" below flush on my 550... I have not shimmed or anything, I just give it a hard push, rotate the case ~180 degrees and give another hard push. I have actually had a problem OVER seating with some brass- I think it was R-P. The primer was deep enough that the firing pin couldn't reach it enough to give it more than a light dent. Looks like I need to go in for one of them fancy long firing pins. C
  10. Hey all, another round gun noob here. I searched around for a fiber optic front sight for my new 625 V-Comp without any luck. I saw on here there was a guy in OZ selling them a few years back, but it looks like that dried up. I am not above fabricating my own if someone had a replacement to sell me... Factory or otherwise. Anyone out there with a lead? Thanks! It is not the standard patridge front- it has a much bigger dovetail. Here it is with a front sight from Protocall Design. C
  11. Any discussion about the fate of limited and heavy metal in those conversations? Heavy metal might not be so much fun for us little guys sans comp. C
  12. PM sent... I would like a .300" green FO, .100" width, classic. Thanks! C
  13. So MitchRapp45 and I put a timer on this Saturday morning, but a bit modified... I was comparing two different load styles, both with my BPS heavy metal gun. First method was tucking the buttstock under my strong arm, gun held horizontal with the load gate down. Shoot one, load four, shoot one yielded an average of 6.2 seconds shot to shot. Pretty consistent, and not a lot of gun shuffling, but the physical act of stuffing shells is slow for me in this position, and more likely to end in a shell shower. The next method involved me rolling the gun over, held strong hand on the stock grip and
  14. Back on topic- I have always shot a 200 yard zero on my mouse guns, but I am about to undertake a match with the big boys: heavy metal. Any change in zero for a .308? How do the basic .223 holdovers compare with .308? Not enough difference to matter under 200 I suspect, but what about out to 500? Thanks! C
  15. E, The springs you seek for the lifter are indeed Glock extractor springs. Use two, end to end. Not a great deal of "tricks" out there since the gun is generally quite reliable. At least mine has been. Craig
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