sslav

I have broken the trigger pin along with the slide lock spring. My guess is that after the pin broke at one of the grooves it then chewed the slide lock spring.

I tape 1/3 sized targets in the A zone towards the top. They fit perfectly and serve multiple purposes. At 10 yards I accept any sight picture that has the sights on the reduced target. For rifle drills at 10 yards I ignore the full sized targets completely. For movement dills I have to move in much closer ( because that is where I have the space to move) so once again I use only the reduced targets and ignore the full sized one.

Dammit! Now I have to wipe the coffee off my screen and keyboard. I shit you not, I spewed it all over laughing. JT Slav suggested that Germans don't do funny....... I of course felt challenged and had to demonstrate proficiency..... :D Congratulations you have proven me wrong. I now know of two funny Germans - you and Bruno. :roflol:

+100

I use my middle finger as well and I doubt I would reverse the mag release. When I got my Beretta Storm, I tried reversing the mag release and using my thumb. I found it very uncomfortable and switched it back to "rightie" mode.

Jim, no comment about using all three guns in one stage? :ph34r:

I am not even sure of what the mechanics of that would be. How do you get your hands on your score sheet? I know at major matches you get a carbon copy. But how do you get the original?

Number of Reloads. Max stage count for USPSA is IIRC 32. For production and L-10 that means 4 mags, even with a Barney round. Same for Single Stack. I've found myself having fun planning my reloads (SS). Revolver friendly stages are great as I have several 7 round mags. That gives me a full mag plus one in the chamber, then reload. Leam I have found this not to be the case often enough. I do not always get away with 4 mags in SS. With 10+1 in the gun going from an array of 2 to an array of 3 or the other way around(which happens quite a bit), you have an option to reload or you can reload going to the next array whatever that may be. With 8 rounds you have to reload or you are going to be doing a standing reload. Consequently you may be forced to do extra reloads compared to 10 round guns. I carry 4 mags on my production belt plus one in the gun and I can't think of a time when I had to use the 4th mag off the belt. I have 5 mags on my SS belt and I have gotten to the 5th on long stages.

If its is legal in IDPA you may be able to accomplish that with a .40-9 conversion barrel. You would need to swap in the 9mm extractor and ejector and you will need G-17 mags.

That looks like a must see in the theater not wait till cable.

I asked the same about using the (identical) frame from a G34 with a G35 slide group, and the same swap with the 35 frame and 34 slide group (with the additional change of the ejector to the appropriate caliber). Such Frankenstein guns are identical to the factory configurations for the same caliber top end, with the only difference being the serial # plate. Same reply from NROI. It's using the frame from a model of a different caliber than the one that goes with the top end, and the rules do not permit it. It does not matter that the frame is identical from one model to the next (with the swap out of the appropriate internals). Frankly it is an unenforceable ruling and thus it is plain stupid. Not only is there not a competitive or any other kind of advantage, there is also no way they are going to be checking serial numbers at the chrono.

Would be very convenient but I can not find the frame rate in the specifications.

That camera looks heavier than it is due to it boxy design. You notice the weight when you first put it on but on several occasions I have forgotten to take it off after shooting the stage. The mount is semi permanently attached to the hat and I bring a second hat to wear while I am not shooting. They have now come out with a micro version of the camera that sells for $130 and is about 1/2 the size of the ones I have. It runs on 2 AAA as opposed to two AA which helps to trim quite a bit of weight off. The fact that these cameras run on common replaceable batteries is another selling point for me. I just keep a 4pack of batteries in my bag and don't have to worry about forgetting to charge the camera.

Or you can shoot just G-35 in production.

If you want a red frame, just duracoat your g-34 frame.

But you don't do comedy.

Or that given the supposed immense value of the mineral they would not come back with a lot more troops and bigger guns, nuke the place from orbit, and strip mine the planet until the only trees left standing would be the bonsai on the desks of the company execs.

Production. Though I have not yet tried open or revolver.

LWD G35 slide - 199.95 LWD G35 Barrel - 99.95 .40 Extractor - 19.95 Firing Pin + spring +cups + Spacer Sleeve - $54 Firing Pin Safety + spring - $6 Extractor Plunger & spring +Load Bearing - $10 Channel Liner - $3 2 .40 Mags - $44 .40 Ejector housing - $7.50 Slide Cover Plate - $3.50 -------------------------------------------------------- Total cost: about $450 Same package with an OEM Glock Barrel would be about $70 more. Brand new G35 about $550 - $575 In addition good sights would run you another $100 or so. You will probably spend that in any case but if you buy a new gun you can decide when to spend that money. If you build your own slide you have to lay it out up front. You can save $70 by moving the firing pin and extractor plunger groups from slide to slide but that becomes a real headache. Is $100-$150 in savings really worth the headache of converting back and forth? Yeah, it is. Mainly because the slide already has nice sights on it. Besides that, I don't understand how swapping the ejector qualifies as a headahce. You will need to replace both the extractor and the ejector to have the reliability that you would want in competition. I have a G-35 and a conversion barrel so I am talking from first hand experience. Then you will inevitably forget to swap either one or the other or both at the most inconvenient time - speaking purely hypothetically of course. But maybe I am just a pessimist and thing will work out just right for you. Give it a shot.

LWD G35 slide - 199.95 LWD G35 Barrel - 99.95 .40 Extractor - 19.95 Firing Pin + spring +cups + Spacer Sleeve - $54 Firing Pin Safety + spring - $6 Extractor Plunger & spring +Load Bearing - $10 Channel Liner - $3 2 .40 Mags - $44 .40 Ejector housing - $7.50 Slide Cover Plate - $3.50 -------------------------------------------------------- Total cost: about $450 Same package with an OEM Glock Barrel would be about $70 more. Brand new G35 about $550 - $575 In addition good sights would run you another $100 or so. You will probably spend that in any case but if you buy a new gun you can decide when to spend that money. If you build your own slide you have to lay it out up front. You can save $70 by moving the firing pin and extractor plunger groups from slide to slide but that becomes a real headache. Is $100-$150 in savings really worth the headache of converting back and forth?

I like my Tachyon XC. Now they have now added the The Micro Model. So I may have to upgrade. Though I am getting a little burned out on video. Positive points include : 1. Self contained - no wires. 2. Water proof to 30 ft. 3. Actually delivers 30fps unlike many similar cameras that claim to but do not. 3. Costs about the same as many other cameras that are inferior to it. (costs 1/5th of Pro).

Tom Baker by a mile (isn't that how long that scarf was?).

Instead of using a dedicated Barney mag, I use the mag that is the farthest to reach on my belt (4th) as a Barney mag. It ends up with 9 rounds instead of 10, but I can't remember ever getting to it anyway. At the end of the course of fire the ejected round goes on top of the 4th mag and it gets rotated to the front belt pouch.

Actually it is even simpler than that. I do not shoot for prizes, I shoot for fun. The two or three major matches that I attend each year either have no prize table or award prizes through random drawing. That is good enough for me. You want to subsidize someone's prize, all power to you. I would rather spend the money and time to practice or shoot a local match. Simple enough?

I agree with this assesment of our prize system. It should be by order of finish. Our entire American culture is based on rewarding the winners and it should not be tread upon in my view. This motivates people into doing better and creates great competition! I am all for handling the prize table in the order of finish. As long as match fees are set at a level to cover match costs only and no part of fees goes to the prize table. Prize table gets sponsor donated prizes only. Set it up that way and I am there. Because if I can's win I will still gladly play and pay my own way to do so. But I fail to see how taxing the many who have no chance to place high enough to subsidize prizes for the few who are guaranteed to place high enough can even remotely be sold as "The American Way".