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About 6 or so years ago,I had one of the 5.5x22 AO Benchrest scopes that NF had. It said made in Japan on the bottom and I had asked someone about that and they said that the scopes were assembled in Japan at Hakko and that it was Japanese glass and the tube was made by them but with USA made materials for the internals sent over there and assembled to NF's specs. But now the majority of their stuff is made and assembled here on the homefront except for a few select parts from what I understand. The BR scope I had was still a piece of art in riflescopes in fit and function.

I noticed the same thing with my Ready Tactical holster. I had to loosen up on the screw substantially for it to fit and release well.

Drill the hole right into the first baffle down into the center hole. The baffle between the first and second chamber. I no longer have my modified Miculek. I gave it to a friend or I would have already thrown a pic up.

I shoot a heavy rifle, but I am getting the 2 o' clock push, very noticeable and irritating. I have also ordered the JP low mass system, and I am shooting a relatively fast powder which is what I want, but I am not happy yet with my comp/load combination… If you have any tips to eliminate the 2 o'clock push please let me know. TKS, Sandro Try the hole in the top but start at 1/8" and work up slowly. I actually used numbered drill bits but I don't have my chart handy for reference.

I tried the Surefire Brake on my 10.5 without the can.....HOLY CRAP YOU NEED TO TRIPLE PLUG. I really like the mounting system for Surefire cans. Just not fond of the price that Surefire demands due to their name.

It adds a slight bit of needed down pressure and helps negate some of the torque. It is extremely noticable when shooting at 50 yards and beyond. Inside 50....its hard to see the added benefit.

The Miculek comp is hard to beat when you factor what it costs. The Surefire is a good brake as well but very expensive and still far behind the SJC Titan and Triangle Rolling Thunder which are the two tops in my book. The SAW brake works well too. I would rank it #3. The Miculek brake becomes very effective with a 3/16" hole drilled in between the first and second baffle.

Browning Gold Autoload feature is exclusive to Browning. Yes the SLP pistol grip stock will work on the Browning.

Thanks for the kind words and feedback Jansen. Its rewarding to know that you feel you left with knowledge in hand.

I'm not saying it is The One but it is The One For Me. I've used BladeTechs in the past and have always found them to sometimes bind and have too much contact on the gun. They just never felt near as smooth as I thought it should be. The REady Tactical is smooth. The Ready Tactical holsters are just fast and I've never had one bind on the draw. Fit and finish is also very clean and appealing.

You are correct....their website states it is milled from a billet of stainless steel.

There are no drawbacks to running an exteneded firing pin. But be sure to replace your FP spring when you do. I have seen FP bounce cause one to go full auto.

Ummm......bull barrels are allowed if under 4.2" See Appendix D5 #22 in the rule book

I have my 35 setup very similar to my Production 34. I added the Seattle Slug Plug and run some Arredondo +5 extensions to the 35. the Seattle Slug really helps balance the 35 when shooting major PF ammo. I do not care for magwells as I've shot production long enough that my reloads are flawless. My 34 is stippled and so is my 35. Both guns run the same adjustable sights with Dawson FO up front. Glock extended mag release and non extended slide stop. I run an overtravel screw in the trigger housing to control overtravel and use the Lone Wolf 3.5# connector. And then do a full polish on the trigger components. I run the 13# ISMI spring on an ISMI guiderod in the 34 and a 15# ISMI in the 35. Other two springs are factory. Both guns run KKM barrels. But I tend to use the 34 in 3 gun more than the 35. I use the Arredondo +5 pads on my 9mm mags and get 23 round cpapcity. I use the 34 in all matches with no power factor. I used to use my STI for 3 gun but quit fighting the urge and realized I shoot the Glock sooo much better that I just started shooting the plastic.

First verify that primers are not high. Did you load this ammo or buy it? High primers will not ignite reliably. Could be too little of overtravel causing the half cock notch to bump the sear and slowing the hammer enough for occasional light strikes. Test like this. Hold trigger to rear and manually thumb hammer back and forth. If the hammer is bumping.....you will feel a notch in the upper arc of motion. If it is smooth feeling.....there is not contact. If it hits....back overtravel adjustment screw in trigger out 1/4 turn at a time until it no longer touches. Also....when the hammer is at rest.....is it tight against the firing pin stop? If not.....you will need a slightly longer strut. Could also be the geometry of parts is different enough that the mainspring lacks some oomph. It may be necessary to replace the mainspring or to get a longer firing pin.

The only striker that has broken has been a factory piece that I lightened myself. The tip broke off. This was back when I dryfired alot. Since then I have not had one break per se but I have worn out a few Lightning Strike units. Both steel and Ti. Lightning Strike advertises the lifespan to be about 15k rounds. The two that wore out both went over 40k rounds. One just very recently as in a few weeks ago. The TiN finish on the Ti strikers is there to protect the striker and the foot area is where the wear occurs. Once that finish wears away.....the striker life goes down hill fast. Factory strikers do not wear like the Ti piece in the foot area near as bad. It gets sort of rounded and starts to slip off the cruciform. You will start to get a dead trigger on occasion and then it will double some. But up until those problems surfaced....I never had any issues and the trigger always felt great. Just for comparison sake. I'll list the weights of the strikers. Factory striker- 124 grains Lightened Factory(milled by me) - 82 grains Lightning Strike steel- 70 grains Lightning Strike Ti- 52 grains Glockworks/ZevTec also has a new lightened steel but I am unsure of the weight as I have not used one. I believe its just a factory piece that has been lightened. In my findings.....the factory strikers are the most durable and long lasting. The ZevTec may be a good durable piece if it is a factory modified piece.

Jay....sorry for the delay in getting the pics posted. I just got this computer back with the memory card slot to be able to transfer photos. Hope you see what you need to see. I can say......I'll take one of these anyday over a BladeTech. And yes.......the Ready Tactical DOH style holster meets all the criteria to be legal in USPSA production class.

Multigun is gonna rock this year.....Area 6 style

Stan Baker Sports in Washington State did the work. (206)522-4575 They are the only ones in the country that can rethread back to Invector or Invector Plus from what I understand. Price was $280 total $200 to rethread and include one choke $60 to cut and reface the barrel $20 for return shipping Turna around was 3 weeks

Aww crap....I forgot to get mine in before the deadline. I'll send it Monday morning.

I have lightened a many factory strikers on the mill but can't get one to feel as good as the Lightning Strike Steel. The Lightning Strike Ti has the best feel of any striker out there. It really feels much different than the lightened steel that they sell. But I also still run factory striker springs. I just no longer trust the reduced power springs.

Yeah....if you can wait.....I'd wait for the new Nightforce. Supposed to be out in November if all goes well.

As long as I am not going to miss my little girls birth...I plan on being there. She is due on August 14th. But I plan to make every effort to be there.

I've got some DOH models by Ready Tac.......I'll get some pics and post them. The Ready Tac totally eliminates any thumb cramping when gripping the gun.

I am about to switch from my G34 with 133k rounds through it to an M&P Pro. I've been wanting one but was waiting till my Glock was starting to wear pretty good and give issues before spending money I really didn't have. I will put a set of Dawson Adjustable sights on it and do a trigger job on it. I'll use the new SSS Ti plunger and one of their extractors and springs too. And I'm sure I will respring the recoil spring to my liking as well. I will draw it from a Ready Tactical DOH holster. I will stipple the front strap and texture the rear grip panel to my liking also. I started shooting Production with an M&P two years ago and ditched it for a Glock because of a few malfunctions at a Section match. But I've never shot a gun better than the M&P. The Glock has just always worked 100% for me but now she has seen her better days and I am gonna try the Pro out.