marcin c

I have an MBX Pro PCC - factory setup, "yellow" recoil spring and their buffer with weakest internal spring. Ammo between 125-137 PF (124 and 147 gr). Came with POF trigger, around 3.7 pound heavy.. Had regular hammer failure to reset. Installed Triggertech Diamond, instant full auto at 1.5 pound, but even with 3.5 pound ocasionally goes auto and also sometimes failure to reset the hammer... WTF..? I am new to PCC but there must be a working trigger that is also light... ?

Would glock's striker spring fit into the Q5 or someone sells different weight striker springs for Walther as well?

Don't think they would build it in Europe, never seen anything that cheaply made manufactured in here (at least not in the past 15 years). This is typical cheapest made in china, or perhaps even less developed place.

I swear I did not hit her :). I had no reason to handle it rough. I mean I moved it like 2-3 times a few meters each time, asssembled it and partially collapsed (or at least tried to), pulled it under the roof etc. It started falling apart on the first day and continued on the second. Due to the lenght of the poles and extreme thinnes and weakness of the materials the leverage itself (eg. holding the thing at its ends and lifting/moving its weight) can damage the poles and the connection points. Its not really a rocket science, look at a camping chair that can hold 200+ pound weight or the lightweight tents... At this price point it should be rock solid. I think using polymers, carbon fibre etc. would be a much better idea, also in terms of weight. This thing is not very well designed, difficult to move around (the bottom base tubes keep on scissoring) I guess if you assemble it and position somewhere and then dont move then it could be fine for like 6 months even. But common, after 10 minutes total of handling it it cracks and disintegrates...

I bough the CED brass catcher for like EUR 140 or so (USD 160). First practice: the locking buttons cracked so the poles could no longer be fixed in vertical positions. Used some screws to bypass that with moderate result. Second practice: the thin aluminum base post crumpled and partially tore like a piece of paper near the center junction. All this while carefully moving the assembled thing around the range for 5-10 meters and just generally handling it. The "madeinchina" quality and design of this thing is incredibly poor and completely inadequate for the purpose (and the price). I am thinking of buying plastic pipes and building similar frame for pennies and I could use the net from CED catcher.

Would that be better than laser welding?

I sent it back to the guy who made the guns and he claims to be able to get it laser-welded back with some specialised welder. Same already happened on the second frame (unfortunately I bought 4 identical guns from this provider). He told me its a US made frame but I suspect it was made in the EU/Germany (the name tag on the frame was removed, but with magnifying glass you can still see the original imprint).

as you can see the recess in the frame to accomodate the trigger guard is too deep, hence the frame floor is very thin. I guess when they make the frame they weld the link to the frame, possibly weakening that part of the frame . I suppose it would be much stronger (and much more expensive) if they CNC-d the link together with the frame from one block of metal..

I've had the trigger guard frame link broke off several times. Some of it was due to me using only one screw (because they always unscrew and get lost) and punching it through the hole with hammer and punch and then locktiting in place (never falls out but still easy to remove and put back without hex keys and all the struggle). That link is truly the weakest link in the gun. Now I just push the one screw through with pliers, but I still had two others break off, now together with a piece of the frame, leaving a hole in the frame at the (dis)attachement point! It happened recently on my 2 shitty german made "custom" 2011-s. I measured the dimensions and found out that the part of the frame, where the trigger guard touches the frame (there is a 1x .5 or so recess) was CNC-d 3 times thinner than on my other guns, so I guess all the vibration and forces on the grip that transfer to the trigger guard link can easily break it off together with the paper-thin tiny piece of the frame. It is not easy to weld it back. The"ll try wil laser welding, but it failed on my other gun.

I bought two .40 Limited Trusight Limcats a few years ago and then ordered another two 2 years later (wanted to have 4 identical pieces, but the second pair was the newer tungsten sleeved version). What the two batches had in common was that one pistol in each batch run OK, and the other not -. there were clear fitting issues that persisted after a 20-30 thousand rounds, I took it to a gunsmith once for a different reason and he pointed out (and corrected it on a CNC machine) that a sleve on the barrel was not properly - gradually- sloped down to smooth the edge. I still dont know why the other "bad" pistol runs erratic, used it for practice only. The two newer Limcats had slides so loose right from the shop, that if you shook the gun in your hand you hear rattling sound (!). Admittedly the feeding was OK (with the good gun) right from the beginning for a wide range of ammo (lenght), which is not always true for supertight guns. I thought it was a feature, until I went to the Limcat stand at the Florida Worldshoot and checked out the displayed guns. Tight as a virgin. Or a swiss vault, if you prefer. That made me feel a bit stupid, but the Limcats were quite accurate so perhaps the tightnes in the display guns is for the ignorant, who are being told everywhere that tight guns are better. Don't know... After about 35K rounds the slide cracked on the newer Limcat a few weeks ago. Tritopping makes the slide very thin and weak. The biggest disappointment were the "tuned' mags from Limcat which are my only mags (I own about 25) that malfunction with every gun, but especially... with the Limcats. Changed the spring etc., no change - I cant even figure out why are they so bad (and expensive). Living in Europe makes any repairs/guarantee a virtually non-existing option. I never owned an SVI, but had one on order, that I cancelled after 1.5 years of wait. During that time I witnessed 6 different SVI owners have problems with their guns, mainly things breaking prematuraly. In fact, I yet have to meet an unsponsored SVI shooter who did not (admit to) have problems with the gun after 5-7-15 K rounds. Of course its a limited sample, but It convinced me not to want one. One thing that SVI does great is the trigger job, though - its beyond real. I have another 4 pistols (2+2) made by 2 different European gunsmiths. One is an engineer and only makes guns as a hobby, for friends - he came highly recommended and so far the guns run great (but they dont have lightened slides like my all other guns, and none has more than 25K rounds). The other two custom guns had slight fitting issues (too tight) and recently slide cracked in an unusual place followed by a 5 cm long crack in the barrel... I still need to figure this one out.. I get really surprised when I see people posting praises about this and that custom gun. My guess is that they dont shoot much and with a couple of thousand rounds per year you surely wont experience problems for long time. If you shoot 50 thousand a year you need a truly reliable gun, thats why you pay extra for custom. These guns just dont deliver this, perhaps except for a few display pieces and guns made specifically for the few sponsored shooter.

I load .40 only and have the plate for .40 cal. It does not seem to depend on the quantity of brass, but I have max 300 cases at one time. I don't have anything installed under the plate. (also the feeder goes on full speed, as after a couple of months of use the speed selector died) thanks, Marcin

What happens is that the rotating feeder plate somehow raises on one side,slides off the metal rod piece that makes it rotate and stops rotating. Also,some cases get under the plate in the process . Its extremally annoying, happens regularly and requires emptying the bowl, readjusting the rotating plate and refilling it with cases. Any idea how to cure this problem? (i tried loosening and tightening the screws, cleaning the baowl etc. - does not help). Alternatively, recommending a brass feeder that works for longer than 500 rounds...

I went through 2 big and one small DAA backpack. All zippers broke, and interior deteriorated quickly as well. Nice design and looks, but as with most DAA products - rather poor quality, paired with fairly high price. I now use regular civilian bags (samsonite etc.).

Left them for days on charge, no help.

Wonder If I am the only one with this problem and whether I should give up on this product... Got one of the first Shotmaxx watches, used it for couple of weeks, enjoyed the usual beta-tester issues, various software fixes etc, but it worked for a while. Then the little speaker started dying, first the beep volume went down, then the watch was making skreechy noises and then complete silence from then on. Went through 4(!) replacements, all ended up the same - the beeper died (sometimes just after sitting in a drawer for a couple of weeks. Then I got tired of finishing off faulty inventory and decided to buy another one at an international match , hoping it would be a new batch with no issues. Couple of weeks later the watch went silent . All 5 shotmaxxes that died on me were not put through any particular abuse, some were only used for dry fire. Yet all lasted for only a couple of weeks of combined use. I love the idea of timer-watch, like the functionality , but the above is really annoying. Should I wait for someone else developing a working product or am I just particularly unlucky and this timer works for everybody else but me... ?