want2race

If you're near Lexington, we shoot USPSA on thursday at The Gunwarehouse too.

..this. Then chrono. I load exactly that. 4.3 is 178Pf through my Schuemann barrel.

If I try to shoot fast splits, they are slow. If I've planned ahead for two fast shots on XYZ target, then my splits on that target are great. I just watch the sights and the gun goes bang twice. Even my finger is slow with conscience thought! When I shoot a stage, it never seems as fast as when I watch the video. When I go back and watch the video I chuckle because it looks and sounds way faster than it did when shooting it. At Ohio state there were a few point blank targets. On stage 3 I was going to hammer this one target before engaging a double drop turner array. I remember seeing the sights, but I don't remember anything else. I saw what I needed to see, and nothing else. The split on that target was great (for me), no thought was put into it. It didn't feel or sound fast at all.

I drilled the new hole for the main spring housing pin. Put in the pin, filed the mag well and msh down with a Bastard file. Then I made a plug out of Delrin to fill in the hole. Used the drill press to make it round. The hole is the main spring hole, when I cut it down the spring hole was exposed at the bottom. Put in plug and redrilled it for main spring pin. Pin holds plug in place. Finished with smoother files and paper.

KY representing at the Ohio state Match! Want2race, Steel1212, LooseBrass, Fomeister, and a few others. Just to reaffirm my SSEC membership:

http://www.sportsmans-depot.com/products/HK-O-RING-FOR-USP45-and-MK23.html Other retailers carry it as well.

I dry fire on a Bosu ball. If your not smooth, you fall off.

I've shot a couple pro models that were really good. 2-2.5" at 25. This is with both PMC gold and reloaded ammo. I'm curious to how the KKM works out for you.

Update: Since the A grip wouldn't stay on I had Bobby (Freedom GW) apply a new texture to the thinned down grip. Turned out perfect. It has a very good feel to it but doesn't grab my shirt when I CCW. Cut down mod is holding up well. Even shot it at our indoor match last month. After this pic I installed one of my reverse curve triggers so that it feels just like my single stack and (old) 2011. Picture is a little washed out but you get the idea. As it sits in my bed side pistol safe:

I adjust it based on the stage I'm about to shoot. Nothing further than 25y (it happens), I set it for my 25y zero (no hold over). Less thinking, faster shooting.

I zero at 50, then confirm at 200. At 25 it's 1.5" low, at 225 it's again 1.5" low. At 100 it's a little over an inch high. At 350 it drops 12". I shoot 52gr from a 20". With irons and an A2 style rear sight drum I had both 25/300 and 50/200 zero's set up. Turned the elevation drum 9 clicks up, then reset the 3/6 portion of the drum. For 50/200 I bottomed the drum (9 clicks down), for 25/300 I set the drum on the 3/6 setting (9 clicks up from bottom). For close range hoser stages 25y and in I set it on 3/6 mark. POA=POI at 25. If I came across a 400 target I turned the drum past the 3/6 mark and stopped on "4". This made the sight versatile for many different ranges. Nothing beats confirmation though.

Thank you for this thread. I needed a laugh. Of course now I'm going to chamfer my pick up tubes and try a number of dry lubricants that will facilitate faster pick up.

Also try a hammer drill. 3 yards shoot as fast as possible into the down 0 area. Aim at center of -0-. One sight picture, snacth the trigger twice as fast as possible. Try to get into the mid to low teens if possible. Read the shots on paper. Adjust grip strength in both hands around and see what that does to the shots on paper. This may show you can shoot faster, not slower, to keep them in the down zero. I found that I can really loosen up on the gun and still put two shots next to each other. Then work the distance back to see how far away you can get and still keep them in the down 0. You are already running a light recoil spring so I wouldn't look to change that quite yet. After the hammer drill, and fast bill drills, the last thing to do is slow it down. Add 1 to 1.5 seconds to your avg quick time and try to shoot it at that slower pace. Watch the sights. After trying to burn it down, mentally slowing it down 1 to 1.5 seconds may just allow you to see what you've been missing. Just things to try.

Fly Delta. Hard plastic case with two TSA locks on it. Declare it and ensure it's unloaded. They may ask to see it. I've been flying with pistols for 20 years. I always call ahead and make sure there have been no policy changes too. You can fly with 8 lbs of ammo too.

I thought about hand on gun, in the dark, during our after action review (7 hr drive home). I thought, "OH MAN, I wonder how many people started with the light pointed at the first target (off until buzzer) and hand on gun. It was pitch black and the RO would never even know." The fix for that, in the future, is to have hands at sides, light ON. I'm a gamer, not a cheater. I started as instructed. How many of you nodded your head at "are you ready", before realizing the RO can't see you? LOL

Bring it with you thursday. Does it do it with the slide closed? Typically it's a self correcting problem. The action of the slide will set the mag back down.

I held the light between my middle and ring fingers. Then held both hands together. My weak hand didn't wrap around strong hand, just held my fists together. Very natural. I don't need to have my sights lit up, instead I can see a good sight picture when they are back lit. My reload was with my thumb and index finger. The light was off at start, which let me to wonder how many shooters started with their hand ON their gun. The RO didn't have NODs and was in the dark as well. My video is posted as well, no hat cam though.

Did you replace it with a .45 ejector? I run a slightly extended one, compared to stock GI. Looking down into the magwell area from top, the left side is furthest forward. Looking from right side of the frame, the top is the furthest forward. What extractor (brand)? Did you tune it? Work the tip, not just adjust tension? My brass curls around and hits the slide before flying to my 4 Oclock. I get small brass marks on the slide to confirm this. On yours, is the brass hitting the ejection port thus deflecting it up instead of out? The M&P I had borrowed was doing this and that caused the brass to exit nearly straight up. I changed the impact location (where the ejector his the base of the case) to remedy that.

I need to start shooting matches on saturdays. Sundays seem to attract rain.

Very few options, very little run and gun, mostly post and shoot. Needed good accuracy and good timing. Shoot house was fun.

My guns have hammer spur marks inside the cutout of the grip safety. Never cracked a MSH pin. If you don't want to shorten the mainspring cap shaft, buy a Ti one as they are shorter.

The small screws at the front of the trigger guard can strip out, not the threads but the head. They are not very strong. When I disassemble the small parts (hammer, sear, disco) the sear spring falls out with the rest of the parts. No worries about that bending. I don't pull the main spring out very often, but the hole for the main spring cap retaining pin can be problematic if care is not taken during diss/reassembly.

That's a new one for me. Take the main spring housing apart, Shorten the shaft of the top plunger. Just an idea to reduce the possible causes.

AKA: Posers. Some have been charged with crimes. There is something about being able to buy awards and Ranger Tabs at the store that some people can't resist.

Nice looking prize pistol. I don't shoot a SA framed gun so I'd have to be HOA to have a shot at it. Still have my bottle of Gnat repellant from last year. Now to load some ammo. Getting close enough to get anxious.