Will Abrahams

Nice reloads! is that a thumb rest on the left side of the gun?

jeez! and i was bitching when the local shop raised it from $20 to $40... looks like its not too bad after all...

like others have said, i would check the brass for pressure signs. with that velocity (assuming the chrono was correct) you would have to have some major pressure signs. if not, then i would question the chrono before contacting VV.

We just had a grand rounds lecture here at Creighton Medical Center a few days ago on the benefits of omega 3. There have been many well run studies highlighting the benefits of fish oil. For the most part cardiovascular improvements were emphasized, but there are many others. The only downside (as Jake has mentioned) you have to take extremely large doses every day to have any statistically significant benefit.

I agree your proposition, it makes perfect sense. However, i would vote to keep a minimum of 40 cal for major for two reasons: 1)I think that is one of the cool things about Limited that distinguishes it from Open. 2)To me requiring the larger caliber kind of makes Limited a more "real world" defense gun. you know, larger caliber and iron sights. Now take that with a grain of salt, i realize production is 9mm and no one uses their limited gun for carry. just my 2 cents

there is a brand new one at the Cabelas in LaVista Nebraska. You might be able to get them to ship it to your local FFL?

never mind, i figured it out....

yeah what the heck is that

I didnt think STI made a 6 inch Edge... or by "Edge" do you mean a full dust cover, bull barrel, full profile slide 2011? if you want that its gonna have to be custom built... which as everyone has said would be pretty darn heavy!

Leatham explained it as: faster powders shoot softer b/c there is less gas coming out of the barrel pushing the gun/slide back. He used some analogy comparing the end of the barrel to a rocket engine... less thrust coming out = less force... I did a search for this a while back and remember finding a link to leathams site where he talks about it. i will see if i can find it for you.

A lovely dinner with the wife at Chalestons and a whooooooole lot of ammo

Hey thanks guys!

Hey Benny, I have read numerous times around here that "straight from the factory 2011s will not reliably feed factory length 40." Im assuming thats why there is a trend to load it long. Does this mean that STI did not "build the guns right" or does STI set them up for 40 loaded long? So in a nutshell, what needs to be done to a factory STI Edge and the mags to get it to run 100% on factory (short) ammo? Or should it technically be able to run on factory lenght ammo as it comes from STI? Thanks Benny

Its all in the rib engagement. 9mm will barely touch the front rib. It'll work but you may end up with periodic nosedive type jams. With the spacer placing the round slightly forward, it'll engage the front rib so you won't end up with nosedive type jams (now this is taking into account your springs and followers are in good condition). There are mag tuners out there that will tune your mag so you don't have to use spacers. SVI mags have one big rib in the middle so it doesn't require a spacer to engage the rib properly. The 40s&w case are slightly longer than a 9mm case and the ribs on a 40 s&w tube are fairly identical in placement to a 9/38 tube so rib engagement shouldn't be an issue. Hey Hiro, could you explain this to me some more... sorry, maybe im not visualizing this correctly. Im looking at a STI 140mm 40SW mag and im just having trouble understanding how contact or lack of contact by the side of the top round on the front rib can either cause the round to feed properly or nose dive??? it looks like the front rib (or the only rib) at the top would just control lateral movement? Does it also have something to do with the rounds under the top most round? I ask b/c i know you mentioned the difference btwn the ribs on the STI vs. SVI, but both mag types look similar near the top (ie having only a thin front rib at the top of the mag.) thanks for any help understanding this!

Hey Chris, I was wondering... why is it that we need to use spacers when shooting factory 9mm in a STI 2011, but we dont when shooting factory 40S&W in a STI 2011??? arent factory 9mm and 40S&W pretty much the same OAL?

Thanks for the responses guys!!! Im going with the Arrendondos

+1 to what everyone else has said. however, when it comes to splits sometimes it is the arrow and not the indian. I used to have a 1911 with a 5 lb trigger pull. my splits with this gun were in the range of 0.22-0.30. I had a trigger job done which brought the pull down to 2lbs. My splits on close targets dropped to the 0.13-0.16 range. might be something to checkout...

So it seems like the arrendondo are by far the preferred choice. Those of you that have tried all three manufacturers (pharoh, Nik, Duane, dohboy...) are there any specific reasons you prefer the arrendondo to the Dawsons or Taylors? do the arrendondos provide more consistent +5 compared to the others? is there less "fitting" required? better quality? compatibility with magwell issues? or does it just come down to preference? thanks

Ive never thought about doing that...so would that mean three seperate air conditioning units and 3 furnaces?

The polymer C-more is by far the choice of most Open division shooters. The C-mores are extremely durable. I would be very surprised if you had any issue with it due to recoil, even with full power 45 loads. With red dot sights you get what you pay for. the C-mores, Aimpoints and Docter optics are expensive, but very well built and worth every penny. the most popular C-more is the railway which is then mounted to either an Allchin, Dawson, Barry, CCG or Quinn style mount. Here are some examples: http://stiguns.com/guns/TruBor/images/Trubor06_800w.jpg http://www.dawsonprecision.com/images/mediums/011-002.jpg http://media.photobucket.com/image/barry%2...otos/Tanfo1.jpg http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&id=26656 http://69.129.204.214/quinn2.jpg

WOW! That is a very clean looking gun. how much does it weigh? Hows the trigger pull (compared to a Kahr, glock, kel tec, etc....)

glad you are ok! could you explain the idea behind the hold slide and hit frame method? not quite sure i have ever seen that one... again glad to hear your ok

Just go out and shoot some matches for petes sake!!! This thead has been like trying to explain the color red to someone who refuses to open their eyes. So open your eyes, go shoot some matches (for whatever shooting sport you are talking about) and all your questions and misguided theory will be straightened out at the range.

If you do it yourself (assuming your not a gunsmith) just make sure all the safeties work... not firing from half cock, hammer not hitting the sear when falling etc...