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Are you saying daa said that is not what it is supposed to look like and was damaging the brass/resizing it incorrectly?

FYI, I have the same one, mine reads 3-5 PF lower (100% of the time) than what I got at every major I shot last year (6?). But the chrono is consistent. There was a clear correlation between what I chronoed before traveling to the match, and what I got at the match every time. Also sat all winter without being used, first time back out i shoot a known load and got consistent results with last year. Blue tooth feature is really helpful. My hs-6 loads using pd 124jhp and cci primers were pretty consistent. Most of my extreme spreads are 20-40 for 10 shots even with super crappy armscore bullets. There are a hand full of strings that had a 70-80 extreme spread though which I attribute to the armscore bullets variation in bullet length. I bought this powder at the beginning of last year. I can check lot number tomorrow if you want

Mine looks exactly the same and so does another local shooter who bought one before me who I consulted about it. Supposedly it’s normal? Mine is less than a month old and saw the groove in the first day or two. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can chime in also. I haven’t started loading my rollsized brass yet but my friend has and says he’s had no problems.

I ran my 510c all of last season and even with a deflector ended up with a crap on my lense, leading to me wiping it off A LOT and ended up taking off some of the lenses coating. Anyone know if Holosun will warranty the lenses coating?

I started shooting a Honcho last year with 9 major. I shot about 10k rounds through it last year and I had one ammo failure (failure to load the second round on a stage) I only use range brass sorted by headstamp. I sort out Fed, Win, and Blazer only. Last year I did not rollsize and only used a Lee U die to process my brass taking multiple steps to cull out bad brass such as over reamed primer pockets, stepped cases (which those specific headstamps don’t have anyways), cracked cases, dinged case mouths, etc. My opinion is that range brass is perfectly fine for 9 major as long as you put in your time and make sure you’re getting rid of all the junk you pick up, cause there’s usually a lot of it. As said above, using range brass is trading saving money in exchange for more time invested. For me personally, I’m not married and don’t have kids so I have more time available than most do so at this point it’s better for me to spend the time sorting brass and save that money for other things. In the future it’s very possible I would switch to buying fully processed or a batch of new brass that I would reuse and keep separate in exchange to keep my time. All personal preference in my opinion.

We had our first local match of the year last weekend. One guy I shoot with regularly who shoots every match he can decided not to shoot this match because it was about 100 miles from his house and said he would spend too much on gas for it to be worth it. Last year he shot this match almost every month and lived just as far away. So yes, I do see the price increases affecting participation. Just as we were getting over the “absolutely no ammo to be found anywhere” problems…

I am also interested in how/where the coverage is from insurance. I checked my coverage and did not see anything on this topic. Was it an FSA/HSA item or specifically covered by insurance?

No, I never had to dive that deep so I had never even thought about doing it. Could be interesting though

IV been using the U die for the past 3-4 years loading 15-20k rounds per year and the u die has solved a lot of the problems I was having before using it: not case gauging, non uniform brass, the odd excessive bulge (the u die obviously doesn’t get rid of it completely, but certainly helps) etc. I only started shooting major this past season, but have really liked it for major due to no set back and consistently sized cases. I also found it helped when loading oversized coated bullets for minor. Grips the bullet better requiring less crimp thus less cutting of the coating, and also my passing gauge % increased likely due to an ever so slightly less overall diameter around the bullet, but I never measured u die brass vs regular sizing die with oversized coated bullets. As Sarge mentioned, I also find the u die helps to get all brass to the same dimension. With a regular die I feel there is more variation between headstamp. I see over all more consistent ammo using the u die. Doesn’t mean it’s for everyone, but I do enjoy using one.

Thanks everyone for the input. I plan on continuing to run my U die also now.

I sort my brass down to three different headstamps that IV had good luck with for major so far, and I get zero setback with my u die now, so my theory was “why fix what ain’t broke” if I didn’t have to. If there is no downside to using the u die I will continue using it. I process separate from loading so the extra sticking during processing doesn’t affect me. Just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a reason they specifically called out the u die in the roll sizer manual basically. But to play devils advocate, do you know for a fact the brass you buy isn’t undersized? Or do they just not specifically say that it’s undersized so you’re assuming it’s not?

I was able to find one other thread about this, but don’t think anyone specifically mentioned major PF (although one mention of bullet set back which is what I’m looking at) I got a roll sizer over the winter and now have a couple buckets of sorted roll sized brass I’m about to start processing on my 1050. This will be for mostly 9 major loads. Up until now I have used the Lee U die as it helped pass the gauge and not have any bullet movement in the case when loading the gun. I read in the roll sizer manual the undersized die are “not needed” after roll sizing, but is there disadvantage to using a U die after roll sizing? Like I mentioned above I like the U die for no set back in major loads. Thanks for any input you have

Has anyone run the Everglades holster with the Honcho? I’m looking to switch from my DAA holster and have had multiple people suggest the Everglades. Only reason I ask is because the Everglades seems to have a generic mounting system and my DAA has a specific PT sleeve in it so I want to be sure it will work before dropping that kind of money on a holster.

When I first started looking at coated bullets (for minor, not major though) a lot of people said the larger diameter bullets seal the barrel better, and sometimes the smaller .355 diameter can have gas leak around the bullet and not get fully trapped behind it. This causes the gas to burn and “gas cut” the bullets causing worse accuracy and more leading in your barrel. There’s a lot of different opinions on if it’s a big deal or relevant in general and a lot of people say they don’t have a problem shooting the .355s, but in my opinion it would make a lot more sense at major pressures than it would at minor that this would happen.

My only thought would be if the gun is short stroking possibly. I would try a lighter recoil spring (think I use an 11lb iirc) or maybe some slightly hotter ammo? Your load might be right in the edge and those are on the low side of powder drop are just a little too light. I shout about 15k rounds in my S2 in 12 months and only had one misfeed in that time that I can remember.

Really, as long as you can pull the handle you should be good to go. However, I personally keep about 2-3 feet in between my presses simply for ease of placing a bullet box or box of cases or a case gauge or whatever else on the bench next to it so that there is still a little room to work with. If you have a different area of your bench you do that on you could probably get away with a little less but I like to work right next to the press I’m loading on at the time. Hope this helps

I’m using the DAA race master also mostly because I used it for my previous set up and only needed to change the insert for it to work.

I recently spoke with Mark at carne, he is running about 6 month lead time as of my conversation about 3 weeks ago. I was going to go with him if I had a new gun built, but wanted to shoot the gun this year and will be planning better for next season. I couldn’t find what I was looking for on the used market for a while, but ended up getting a used Honcho for an ok price. IV only shot about 300 rounds through it so far with only 30 being 9 major (ladder test) so I can’t give an in depth report yet but so far so good.

Sorry about that Chuck. Thanks for the help I had seen the second thread, but it was overtaken with SWMP discussion so I thought it could be better to create a new thread and include HS 6 which wasn’t included in the other one.

Hello everyone, I should be receiving my new to me Honcho in a day or two I was going to load up a couple test loads to chrono when it comes in. I currently have 8# of HS-6 and 8# of AA7 and a buddy who said I could possibly test some of his SWMP. I will be using PD 124 JHP. I already load data from one person as a reference, but just looking for a couple other opinions to see what works for everyone else. Thanks in advance guys.

I agree with Sarge on 1, 2, and 3. My bench also wobbles and I see that every now and then too. although, with the bullet feeder I found more in-depth tuning basically eliminated upside down Bullets. I now take extra time when switching Bullets to make sure it is set 100%. 4. one shot is amazing and I won’t reload pistol brass without it ever again. 5. I agree, when using coated Bullets I do not bother taking the lube off. When using plated/jacketed I fill a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol, lay the rounds on an old beach towel, and give a couple sprays of the alcohol and rub in the towel. Takes the lube off of hundreds of cases in a matter of a minute or two. 6. I make my own lanolin/alcohol lube for rifle cases. Like Sarge I also do a quick tumble in walnut media after reaizing, but before loading. After 5-10k cases I find the media absorbs too much lube and needs to be tossed otherwise you get media stuck in your cases and it’s a pia. 7. Unlike a lot of guys, I do a visual inspection of ALL my brass before loading. Checking for stepped cases and bad headstamps. I toss CBC, Maxxtech, sumbro, ammo inc, and basically anything I don’t recognize (after tons of 5 gal buckets you figure out which need to be tossed haha). I like to be able step up to the press with brass that is 100% ready to go and I won’t have problems with. WIN I found to be good brass for the most part, and agree you shouldn’t be having problems that one. 8. I think that you can notice some difference in failures when going from .356 to .355. I noticed a huge difference in failure rate when going from .357 coated Bullets down to .355. Especially with thicker brass like SB. With .357 that was the most prevalent failed headstamp. I found crimp was really important when using larger sized Bullets. 9. I had an LNL and had absolutely nothing but problems with it. I do not miss it! I enjoy my 750, and my 1050 even more. I now use my 750 for processing pistol brass and loading rifle. I use my 1050 only for loading pistol. I found the 1050 to also be very tight inbetween the dies, so if that is your biggest problem, the 1050 likely won’t solve it. The LNL did make it much easier to access your dies and is the only thing I miss about it but was not worth the other problems I had. If you had started on the LNL I’d say stick it out for a while, but you wouldn’t like switching to it from the Dillon in my opinion.

Thanks teros. Again it might boil down to pushing too many bullets out the door, and hopefully by the time I need to order more all this crap is over. Wont stop me from ordering more, I was just wondering if it was common or not because I know some profiles are harder to produce than others and I could always get my barrel reamed to accept longer RN bullets.

sorry, that may have been the wrong way to word it. I meant they weren’t concerned with the bullets condition, as in they don’t see it as a problem. I do appreciate them taking the time to respond and let me know what they thought especially when I know how busy they are right now. I have no problem if this is just something that happens to this profile, which is what I was wondering. I wanted to make sure it wasn’t a manufacturing defect that they were unaware of and that I was going to have problems with. I just might take that into account and choose a different profile next time I order. I’m slightly upset my Bullets have exposed lead on them, but if they say they are good to load and I shouldn’t get leading then I’m fine with that. That’s all I was trying to determine. Hope that all makes more sense

Blue seems unconcerned with the issue. I will start loading some up and see what the results are. As long as there isn’t excessive leading I’ll be happy.

I’m sending an email this afternoon. Just for kicks I opened one more box today and it was fine. I’ll report back with what they say when I hear back from them.